We're here to help not criticize so please leave that out. This is a discussion forum based on helping people like me and you out if you have issues/problems. He was only advising you the best thing to do and after all that is what you were seeking correct?

Glad to hear you didn't get ripped off though. You need to find a good reliable technician!

-Edgar

 

He just meant that the EIS can't be DIY is all, but as far as checking on the cheapest deal for those with Star capabilities, hey man good job savin that money.

My problem ended up being the steering wheel column or something, and having nothing to do with the EIS and key, however, since my Indy guy tried to bypass the EIS, and solder the mechanism that signals the key being accepted into permanent position, I'm pretty sure he was partially responsible for its demise.

And so I learned, and became resolved in my goal to learn enough about cars to save that money back in the future with DIYs.

Woot!

 

Fair enough. I have and still read it differently from his own words. Regardless, what was described as me "fiddling around" turned a 1,700 euro estimate down to 630, which became 574.99 with a discount we didn't even ask for. The same dealership caused a lot of problems in 2008, which cost them lots of money and us lots of headaches, so perhaps they were on a mission to make up for it.

The problem in Germany is the apprentice system, which is also responsible for massive unemployment of skilled workers. Dealer service hires apprentices and has Meisters working above them, directing them. They pay a fleet of these 17-18 year old kids to work on cars and even WHEN they damage the cars (in our case in 2008, which cost them close to 8,000 euros, billed to warranty), they still are ahead because they don't have massive labor costs. Then when the term is over, the fire the students, then hire new ones, as they are required to pay more and invest in further education. This is why it is very shady going to even a dealer. They are learning on YOUR car. Additionally, people have the impression they'll be using Hazet, Gedore, and Stahlwille tools. That is not the case. Under the law, the tools are provided by the employer and they literally, which I have confirmed, just go to the supermarkets when they have offers and get the packages there. The specialized tools are something they try to avoid at all costs as well.

It is because of this that any visit to the dealer needs to be carefully looked into to understand what alternatives are available.

Now for those that might have this problem= the EIS commonly becomes faulty in cold temperatures. It generates its own heat when it's fed with power, but it has to turn on first. Now if there's a situation when you can't get it going, a hairdryer will work. It takes some time for the heat to soak into the device after using it, but it worked for me.

Here are the symptoms I outlined for the dealer:

intermittent unresponsiveness to the remotes for the door locks, especially when cold
no response to key in the ignition
------ dashes where the miles or kilometers are displayed
steering wheel doesn't unlock, key not allowed to turn

In borderline weather, I had luck turning the lights on then opening the door. When the warning display goes on, I've seen a correlation where the switch begins working (perhaps the EIS turns on and generates some heat to work properly again). I've also seen the dashes turning back to numbers and the car starting by turning the EC Rest on.

EIS part number for my series: 16A2035450608 483 euros in Germany installed with programming of three keys (plus 19% tax).

Keys DO NOT need to be replaced! The dealer stressed this!

 

I'm on the same boat as you! I saved myself $1,000+ USD because my friend, a VERY GOOD TECHNICIAN diagnosed my car from what I had explained. He just ended up doing it himself and didn't charge me any thing. That money is going towards my car now!

 

Do you know how much work goes into replacing the switch?

Now that I see the itemized with the total cost and labor at 483, I don't think it was so bad...

 

Haha nice Edgar. Sk, I believe 1.5 hours, thats what you quoted for labor right Edgar?

My adventure: We just tried to bypass it, kind of like we were jumping the car each time. If you open up the EIS there is a little switch that engages when the security check (forget the sequence) allows it to. We amde sure that switch stayed engaged, but, I suppose that after the engine is shut down, that loops stays open unless it is again closed.

If you could just drive with an open EIS, and push that little switch in the EIS each time after putting the key in, AND THEN jump the car from a switch placed somewhere in the car, lol, then it would work.

Or get a switch that has a mechanical part that actually grabs a hold of the switch, and moves it. So you'd have to put the key in, hit one switch, then hit a second switch.

LMAO.

NO ONE WOULD EVER STEAL YOUR CAR IM GUESSIN. HAHAHA.

Anyway.. I can drive now, just with no AC, so I'll see yall in the stepper motor sticky thread.

 

Yeah, I actually got it done at the dealership, I posted the exact amount somewhere around the w203 section.

 

Hey edgarinho10, where did you get your EIS changed in the Dallas Area?

 

Got the same symptoms? Dallas doesn't strike me as particularly cold. At what temps do you have the problem?

 

The Ewing Autohaus Mercedes Dealership in Plano on Plano Rd. Know where that's at?

 

Yeah, I know exactly where that is. I wil give them a call and see how much I can get mine done for.

Thanks

 

I think it's best if you go in person. They might not answer because sometimes calls tend to be from other shops that are trying to profit from a customer through them or to correct a mistake they made.

Good luck!

 

Just a note I wanted to add to this thread.
My mechanic was showing me an EIS one day, we were discussing how they can fail and
the cost.
His warning is,
Never disconnect the battery with the key in the ignition ie EIS.
The car may get confused on the code needed to unlock, and
supposedly the only fix is replacement of the EIS.
FYI.

 

But do they have a lifespan?

 

Supposedly, you should not do this because it also blows the rear SAM.

 

IT DOES DEF MINES JUST GONE

 

What is the rear SAM?

 

As in which part it is or what does it control?

 

Guy named Sam who lives in the trunk.

 

what should I consider or prepare before I replace it?? Where to buy the spareparts??

 

The rear SAM or the EIS?

 

My Rear Sam is OK, The EIS was fault according the DAS diagnosis

 

You will have to go through a dealership. It's basically like buying a key. Only they can do it.

Anything less and you run the risk of running into problems which cannot be solved and still have to get forwarded to the dealership.

 

Thank you. That's the best to do, I suppose.

 

Just FYI:

You can bypass the ECU/EIS security check without compromising the security or safety of your car.

My 2001 C240, EIS was shot, and my car was stuck for weeks in a municipal garage. I had no response from any of the electrical. So I purchased the ECU, EIS, and steering lock from another car. All of the Electrical responded but the car would not crank or turn over. (My car is 6 speed manual and the ecu I purchased was from an automatic (the automatics need a "parked" signal in order for the fuel pump to come on and the starter to turn over)).

So my mechanic relayed the fuel pump to respond to the key held in the on position, and relayed the starter directly to the battery with a push button engagement. So yes, all I have to do is hold the key on and push the button. Everything responds, no CEL related to this new starting setup.

Long story short, if you're having issues with your car not responding due to EIS issues... save yourself a ton of money... ( new EIS and the recommended new key and green key coding, $900... add the mercedes labor and your total will be around $1500)... (a used ecu, eis, steering lock, and key about $300, and another $175-$250 for my mechanic, or do it yourself, and you're looking at less than $600).

It's possible!!!