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There's no specific orders, but I used the cross method as one would with the wheel lug nuts. I did them all to finger tight, then 5nm, then 6nm, then final torque to 8nm.
As I'm getting ready to do the ATF + filter change on my 2005 CLK500 with 7 speed trany 722.901, I came across one of the posts where High-End Fluke infrared Thermometer's readings measuring temperature at the pan were compared with MB STAR, and it says that it was OFF by a much as 10°C! And it warns not to use the IR Thermometer. I don't have the MB star, and was planning to use the infrared thermometer. Now I'm concerned that it will affect the level significantly. Has anyone compared the readings of MB Star and IR Thermometer? Thank you.
As I'm getting ready to do the ATF + filter change on my 2005 CLK500 with 7 speed trany 722.901, I came across one of the posts where High-End Fluke infrared Thermometer's readings measuring temperature at the pan were compared with MB STAR, and it says that it was OFF by a much as 10°C! And it warns not to use the IR Thermometer. I don't have the MB star, and was planning to use the infrared thermometer. Now I'm concerned that it will affect the level significantly. Has anyone compared the readings of MB Star and IR Thermometer? Thank you.
I have not compared IR vs. star. The IR is measuring the outside metal temperature. I don't doubt that there can be a significant difference with a cold air Temperature. A piece of insulation over a contact thermometer on the pan would like be more accurate than the IR thermometer.
Read my post just above to see how to find out if you have the converter drain plug. For the question about the dipstick, please read all the documents I posted at the beginning of this thread.
To answer your other question, I hate to be so blunt but NO, you can NOT service the 7G without STAR or an infrared thermometer. This transmission is VERY picky with fluid level, and it must be checked an adjusted just as described in the documents I posted, or you will likely suffer serious transmission damage. So, if you are not absolutely comfortable buying the correct tools, and following the procedures, please find a good indy to do it for you.
Hey man hoping someone could help me, i have 2o1o gl350 diesel, 49k mikes, got Tran service done from the dealer, his notes say they changed filter, 9 qrts mb transmission fluid, torque converter was flushed etc, but now the car shifts at high rpms, it used to be just under 2k now it's roaring right out of the driveway without much throttle or load ... My question is what could be the reason for this ? Those morons want to charge diagnostics and say car is driving normal, which is just insain
This is a good point that I've been meaning to bring up. I don't know where the requirement for an IR thermometer came from (I suspect somebody originally used one doing this job), but while they are quick and easy, they aren't the most accurate thing out there, especially at such low temps.
When I did this job on my vehicle, I used the thermometer coupling on my Fluke multimeter. It's a simple (and accurate) temperature probe. You simply hold the probe to the pan and it gives an instant reading of temperature. While I understand that everybody wants to be as accurate as possible, as long as you're within a few degrees, everything will be fine. Just find a reliable way to measure the pan temperature and it will all be OK.
Originally Posted by dave2001auto
I have not compared IR vs. star. The IR is measuring the outside metal temperature. I don't doubt that there can be a significant difference with a cold air Temperature. A piece of insulation over a contact thermometer on the pan would like be more accurate than the IR thermometer.
Hey man hoping someone could help me, i have 2o1o gl350 diesel, 49k mikes, got Tran service done from the dealer, his notes say they changed filter, 9 qrts mb transmission fluid, torque converter was flushed etc, but now the car shifts at high rpms, it used to be just under 2k now it's roaring right out of the driveway without much throttle or load ... My question is what could be the reason for this ? Those morons want to charge diagnostics and say car is driving normal, which is just insain
Any help is much appreciated here
Shifting at a high Rpm - is it working OK otherwise?
If so, check the setting of the C/S button by the sifter (assuming you car has one like mine does?). Select comfort setting.
All Cars Lost To Hurricane Isaac (W124 E420 revived - added 88 Allante 14 S550, 17 S63
I am getting ready to do a fluid change on my S500 w/ 722.9. I tend to remove the valve body and VGS (Control Unit) to thoroughly clean it. With a special focus on cleaning the solenoid screens of metal particles and the sludge elsewhere on the assembly. The question I have is that the ring magnets (2 places) are within the actual transmission. In theory they should have attracted some metal particles also. I cannot figure how I would remove those particles without a more complex disassembly (out side of my home garage capability). I will clean the two pick up magnets (for the rings) on the VGS, but would the forum agree that the ring magnets be ignored due to no other choice, or is there some way to remove or wash the particles off the magnet rings in their apparent inaccessible location. The transmission works very good at present. It is due a fluid change and has the VGS Y3/8N4 error code on my scanner. it will not clear. Thus the cleaning of the control unit. 100k miles and one previous fluid change.
Ring magnets shown at arrows
Last edited by kafklatsch; 04-30-2017 at 02:11 AM.
So today I did my 07 ML 320. I've got 95k miles and recently the shifts haven't been that great. I had this done at the dealer at 50k miles. I wonder what they did. The old fluid was more brown than red but not burned looking, still clear. There was a bit of the gray sludge stuck to the magnets. What was interesting was there were two of the white tubes in the pan when I took it off. I bought the upgraded pan as I wasn't sure what I had. The one on the car was identical to the new one. How do you upgrade the pan and leave two tubes in it?
At any rate the trans shifts 100% better now. Pretty much like new.
I have one of the Motive brake fluid pumps but a garden sprayer would do. Bought an extra drain plug when I got all the other supplies. Drilled a hole in the plug and got a pipe thread to hose barb fitting from Lowes. Epoxied the two together and it worked fine.
Motive Power Fill Pro - yes it cost more than garden sprayer but you will only have to buy it once!
(I would not want to pump brake fluid and AT fluid with the same pump)
Long story short: I'm getting all my ducks in a row for a 722.9 full service (Pan and Torque Converter = Approximately 9 quarts).
QUESTION: With regards to Draining the Torque Converter.
* I like to keep things clean - i.e. The Inside of the Bellhousing, as well as the Garage Floor
* With this in mind, have any of you guys made some sort of a "shield" or "funnel modification" that effectively directs the flow of old/used fluid from the Torque Converter to your collection pan?
* If you have made a tool for this purpose, can you please post some pictures?
Draining the TC didn't make much of a mess. It will run into the bell housing a bit but there are drain holes right there and the fluid is directed to them. I just let it drain and then wiped everything clean after. The drain hole is small and the fluid exits very slowly.
I just cut a small piece of thin but semi rigid plastic to keep the oil from going into the housing.
Easy to improvise once you remove the rubber plug and take a closer look .
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort (What the heck, it gets 38 mpg!)
Originally Posted by arto_wa
I made one of these above.
Motive Power Fill Pro - yes it cost more than garden sprayer but you will only have to buy it once!
(I would not want to pump brake fluid and AT fluid with the same pump)
Used it one time so far and it works as designed.
What is that? Did you drill a hole inside of a bolt or something? or are these off-the-shelf items?
Is there some reason I would want to make this item versus purchase it? I've seen the adapters on eBay for as little as $7 from China, and there's one made by Mighty Vac which can be picked up at O'Reilly for like 15 bucks and had for Less other places online. Is there some advantage to making it versus just purchasing it?
Also regarding the garden sprayer I recall reading somewhere that there is an inexpensive one from Walmart that does a good job.
Can someone point me to this item, post a link?
lastly if I purchase the adapter such as the Mighty Vac one will I be able to use the garden sprayer with that tool?
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; 06-07-2017 at 05:25 PM.
I should mention something that didn't work very well for me. After I filled I left the adapter and pump connected as per instructions. I clamped off the hose next to the pan and ran it up to temp.I had the top of the pump open thinking the excess would run back into the pump body. Removed the clamp and very little came out. I was puzzled since I had put back the extra quart. After a bit I unscrewed the adapter and a gusher of atf came out the hole. I had my drain pan nearby so not much of a mess. I guess the adapter hole is too small to drain without the pressure the pump creates going the other way. Seemed like a good idea at the time.
It's just a M12-1.5 Dorman oil drain plug from auto parts store with a barb connector added - no particular advantage compared to reasonably priced factory made adapter.
I got the instructions from someone on this forum but do not remember his posting ID, sorry.
You can just follow the above instructions or buy ready made adapter from somewhere. I think the Assenmacher one was little pricey!
The only difference between the Motive brake fluid pump and a garden sprayer are the fittings that come with the Motive to interface to the brake fluid reservoir. The rest is pretty much the same.
03-01-2017, 06:17 PM
