C240 No Crank, No Start - Has Power - I'm At A Loss Here
 

Hello everyone. I have a 2003 c240 4 Matic that has been running trouble free till today. It will not crank at all, just a single faint click under the hood. Also, it has been raining and damp lately, but here in NY, this is not uncommon. The lights do not dim when turning the key. So to be clear, no spinning of the starter motor at all. I tried in park & neutral, looked for blown fuses on three different fuse blocks, swapped the relay positions in the fuse block, and disconnected the power seats. No malfunctions being shown. I have had an automatic charger on the battery all day, and it was fully charged from the get go anyways. What do you guys think? Ignition switch, starter solenoid, something else? Oh, it had the tranny rebuilt about 5 months/3000 miles ago. Park safety switch?
I absolutely hate electrical gremlins! https://bestsmileys.com/angry2/2.gif

Hmm. When the start is just clicking it sounds like the batttery. Check your voltage.

Starter motor, starter motor solenoid, bad earth, broken earth strap. LT failure from EIS. Interlock.

This is one click, not the typical multiple ticks from a low batt. I only have one key, so I don't know if the key has an issue. It was dropped recently, but it has started the car for a week since then. It is still raining, so I haven't had a chance to locate the starter to tap on it or to see the wire condition at the solenoid. The car is pretty clean, and there is no other cable corrosion anyplace that is visible. I sure hope it is not the EIS. I have been meaning to get another key, I guess now is as good a time as any. Could my key just stop working like that?

Oh yeah, I also cleaned both battery terminals.

So MB road service was a bust. They showed up with a jump box. Tried starting it with it hooked up which of course gave the same results I had been getting... nothing. So the only other option they offered was to tow it back to the dealership for diagnosis. I declined. My AAA membership could of provided me with the same low tech service MB did.

Well to be fair MB Roadside makes it clear that they will jump the battery, change a tire, or bring you some fuel. They cannot do full diagnosis nor should they be responsible for it on cars well past warranty. MB is the only company to my knowledge that offers lifetime roadside assistance, too.

You are right, they did at least try where other car makers would laugh at you if you asked for that service on such an old car for free. I guess I was expecting a bit more after reading the positive reports about it here. Also, my original problem got watered down as the info went thru the channels. They thought it was cranking when they were dispatched when I clearly explained to the MBZ operator it did not crank.

But on the upside, the problem has been solved! :D Below is the answer that worked for me. My fuse was in the block under the hood, but it was #52 as it states below.

Good News - I know about this but every car I've seen already has a 20A fuse.

I"m having this same issue. My c240 2002 has all indications that battery is working. headlights, radio, sunroof works. When the ignition is turned to the last position the car..simply "clicks".

At first i checked and the starter fuse #52 in the SAM-F was blown. I replaced it and the car would start fine until the next time i had to start it again. Once i tried to start it..it would blow the same fuse. Essentially the fuse would only last for 1 time of the ignition as the very next time the fuse would blow again.

I then changed the fuse from 20amps to 40amps. And it starts...but now it start intermittenly.

I have replaced the starter relay, the fuse and will also replace the crankshaft position sensor.

There seems to be a short somewhere alongside the starter electrical. Could the SAM-F be going bad?

I have not blown that fuse since I replaced it. I did recently encounter another starting problem though, this time it appears to be the starter or solenoid. I am getting it replaced this Wednesday. I looked at doing it myself but that sucker is really packed in there so it's going in for a 3 hour surgical procedure. :)

My current symptoms sound like yours. Now with my fuse issue, there was no clicks or sounds. The current issue when I turn the ignition to start it clicks once. The click sound is coming from the starter. It appears the solenoid is not kicking the bendix out. If yours is clicking, you may have the same issue. Plan on about a $600 bill if you take it someplace. If you do it yourself, don't cheap out on the parts as you never want to do it again.

Any luck with your starting issue?

I'm having this exact issue with my 2006 C55 (112k miles). The car stalled and then wouldn't even click when I turned the ignition. Does anyone have a diagram from stars for the replacement of the starter and fuse box ( #52?)

Never mind on the fuse map. Found it here

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w203/313059-windshield-wiper-fuse-2001-c240.html

Accepts Key then doesnt
 

Hello,
I have an unusual problem with my 2004 C240
When I turn the key (bladeless) to the ignition position, the engine doesn't crank sometimes Sometimes it wont accept the key at all.

I can get the engine to crank by:

a) Holding the key in the crank position for nearly 10 seconds
b) Releasing the key, turning to "OFF", then attempting a crank multiple times (usually I need about 3 more attempts to get a successful crank)

This doesn't happen all the time, only one out of four times I try and start the engine.

I have never had starter problems with my car. Until a few weeks ago, when this started.
Does anyone have any ideas?

Incidentally, the problem is annoying at worst, though I wouldn't like to be on a railroad track with this car :-D

Kind regards


BTW: Other info -

Battery is fine and maintains good charge. When starter motor does eventually crank, it sounds healthy.

Starter motor sounds fine. No "Whines" or "whirrs"

Fuel pump etc seem fine. When I turn key to the "accessories" position, I hear the normal hums and clicks

When you say doesn't accept the key does that mean you push it in and can't turn it? If so sounds like you need a new EIS which usually has to come from a dealer and is expensive.
Have you tried another key? The next step would be to get the car hooked up to a star system and do some further diagnostics.

Sounds familiar, after a week at our trusted repairer they found a pin loose on a loom near the key/steering column. This mongrel pin could never have been inserted properly from manufacture. Locked it back in and problem sorted. They have to find it first....:smash:

Hey,
Could you take a picture of the area or that pin that you mentioned? Currently having the same issue with my 02 C240, Car starts after multiple attempts. It's frustrating not know whether your going to drive to work or take the bus.

Sorry, that's all I know, it was neatly reassembled when I picked it up :confused:
However I might be more correct in saying:
"a pin was loose on a connector on a wiring loom near the key/steering column"
Good luck with your search!

Thanks!

No start
 

Same problem, intermittent start, no sound-nothing. I thought I had it narrowed down to pressing "lock & unlock" a few times, thinking it might have something to do with "security system".
When that didn't work, the next time, I manually turned on the headlights, it started, turned off lights, no start. I tried this 3x, it started each time the lights were on. The 4th time it started on its own, no lights. Go figure?

hello i have Mercedes c 240 4matic 2002 year . After a theft IGNITION SWITCH LOCK was demaged. please, tell me exactly what function this part has. is it only the reader or does it detect the code of the key? and do I need only to change ignition switch lock or other any part?please also tell how can I choose which ignition switch lock matches to my car? :nix:

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...t-process.html

You need to identify what is damaged. The ESL or the EIS. The EIS reads the key for your specific car & if the code tally's & the handshake is successful it releases the steering lock.

If only the ESL is damaged then only replace that. Most dealers replace both at vast expense to the owner & it is not necessary. Only replace what is broken.

My car died. After 3 days of no cranking on my 2003 C240, I was about to replace the ECU. I disconnected all 5 plugs to removed ECU from the car to get the part number, then I replaced it and reconnected all the plugs. To my great surprise, I was able to start the car. I had to write this up for the benefit of others. I was so elated.
The car had stalled on me several times over the 3 days, and, intermittently, I was able to crank it. Then it had stopped cranking completely. Just goes to show that unplugging and replugging can solve a problem with these cars. YAHHHOOOO.


MY POST #23 was premature. I am not so elated. Car had the same problem the following day. To keep this short,
I purchased a new ECU for $875. Plugged it in. DEAD. Had car towed to a Mercedes indy. They reprogrammed the ECU and car now purrs. ( another $650)
2 weeks later the car died on the freeway, but armed with knowledge found on this site, (see post # 24), I first checked fuses. # 52 had blown. Changed that fuse and I was on my way in minutes. That fuse is the ignition fuse found in the engine compartment fuse box. A blue 15A fuse located in the forward row, about the 5th one, starting from the drivers side.
I am now caustiously happy.

You guys are amazing. I had exactly the same problem (on top of my everyday dying battery due to something that drains it everynight).

Yesterday I couldn't give jump start to my car. When I connect the jump starter to my battery everything looked fine, all lights came, the key was getting in, making that normal noise, but car did not start. It didn't even try. I was sure it wasn't about the battery (no matter how dead it was).

Anyways, just tried the advise here: changed the fuse 52 with 20A (instead of 15A originally there) and now car works greatly.

Thank you all for saving me from all the trouble of towing and going to repair shop!

My car died this afternoon. After reading all these post I am still uncertain what the issue could be. I tested the battery and it seems fine. All the lights are working. I don't have another set of keys. I just had my oil changed done last week.

The car doesn't seem to turn over. I had it towed and frustrated with what the issue could be. I don't want to spend tons of money.... help!

After reading all the post on possible issues. I thought it could be the CPS. (crank position sensor) and then after reading further.... it could also be something else.

Please help!

p.s @burtonite why did you change the fuse 52 with a 20A and not the 15A? just curious.