AC acid, bearing, valve, & piston test
#1
AC acid, bearing, valve, & piston test
I've been reading this: http://ezinearticles.com/?The-Ways-A...t-It&id=635179
Based on my pressure readings, it looks like I either have a weak compressor or an electrical problem.
Apparently if its a failed compressor, it might be because of a short, and if so, the R134 would be acidic.
Or, if continued wear, from say improper oil or r135 levels etc, a bearing or valve or piston went out, perhaps also causing a short.
How hard is it to open it up and see if any of those things are broken?
I will need to know what I'm looking for, and I don't mind spending all weekend doing it.
But is there an easy way to test the acidity level of the R134?
I Bet there isnt, since people say there is no way to figure out how much oil is in there either, without completely discharging.
My high pressure is definitely low, and my low pressure is around normal. The high pressure comes down slightly when I pump the AC up with some gas, and the low pressure doubles.
Even if I had a slow leak, and the sensor tripped, I still would like to test the compressor before doing a complete recharge of the system, because it would save me money, if the compressor ends up just being bad.
"If the compressor locks up mechanically and fails to run, you will know because it will buzz very loudly for a few seconds and may shudder (just like any stalled motor) until the thermal limiter cuts it off. When you do your electrical checks, you will find no evidence of failed open or failed short. The acid test will show no acid. In this case, you might try a hard-start kit but if the compressor has failed mechanically the hard-start kit won't get the compressor to start."
What is a hard start kit?
"Should diagnosis show a clogged filter, then this should be taken as positive evidence of some failure in the system OTHER than a compressor failure."
What filter?
Based on my pressure readings, it looks like I either have a weak compressor or an electrical problem.
Apparently if its a failed compressor, it might be because of a short, and if so, the R134 would be acidic.
Or, if continued wear, from say improper oil or r135 levels etc, a bearing or valve or piston went out, perhaps also causing a short.
How hard is it to open it up and see if any of those things are broken?
I will need to know what I'm looking for, and I don't mind spending all weekend doing it.
But is there an easy way to test the acidity level of the R134?
I Bet there isnt, since people say there is no way to figure out how much oil is in there either, without completely discharging.
My high pressure is definitely low, and my low pressure is around normal. The high pressure comes down slightly when I pump the AC up with some gas, and the low pressure doubles.
Even if I had a slow leak, and the sensor tripped, I still would like to test the compressor before doing a complete recharge of the system, because it would save me money, if the compressor ends up just being bad.
"If the compressor locks up mechanically and fails to run, you will know because it will buzz very loudly for a few seconds and may shudder (just like any stalled motor) until the thermal limiter cuts it off. When you do your electrical checks, you will find no evidence of failed open or failed short. The acid test will show no acid. In this case, you might try a hard-start kit but if the compressor has failed mechanically the hard-start kit won't get the compressor to start."
What is a hard start kit?
"Should diagnosis show a clogged filter, then this should be taken as positive evidence of some failure in the system OTHER than a compressor failure."
What filter?
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
#3
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
ok, I understand you are trying to diagnose if the compressor is dead.
It may be prudent to take the car to A/C specialist independent mechanic and pay him for diagnostic fee (probably an hour charge) and he will be able to tell you if the compressor is dead. That's what I would do.
It may be prudent to take the car to A/C specialist independent mechanic and pay him for diagnostic fee (probably an hour charge) and he will be able to tell you if the compressor is dead. That's what I would do.