Optima Yellow Top
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Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 49
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From: Sydney, Australia
W203 06
Optima Yellow Top
Hey guys,
So I need a Optima Yellow top in my car. Im looking at the big one which has 900+CA. my only worry is that the stock battery sits at 175mm, which is right under the cabin aircon filter, and the yellow top battery is 200mm in height. Is there a custom way of mounting the battery that allows it to fit?
Thanks.
So I need a Optima Yellow top in my car. Im looking at the big one which has 900+CA. my only worry is that the stock battery sits at 175mm, which is right under the cabin aircon filter, and the yellow top battery is 200mm in height. Is there a custom way of mounting the battery that allows it to fit?
Thanks.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Westwood, NJ
2004 Civic Si. FWD for the Win!
I've never seen a custom mount here. I don't think there will be enough space to sandwich it, then the filter, both under the hood. Your best bet would probably be to relocate to the trunk area instead, or would caps work instead for peaks?
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Orange County
2005 C Wagon (No snickering please!)
Optima battries are nice. But only for racing. There main advantage is a robust plate design that can take the high g forces of cars on the track. They are all under rated for use in a street car because the electrical consumers exceed the capacity of the battery. There are no batteries in the US aftermarket that meet the capacity of OEM battries.
Stick with the type supplied, and you will get long life and have engough juice to start the car. A lot of people have believed the advertising hype of aftermarket battries and wound up taking bus no. 11. (11 is the number formed by your legs)
Stick with the type supplied, and you will get long life and have engough juice to start the car. A lot of people have believed the advertising hype of aftermarket battries and wound up taking bus no. 11. (11 is the number formed by your legs)
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2010 SLK350
I believe the yellow top to be a better choice for a daily driver, although I'm not a battery expert so I forget why! That said, I had a yellow in a previous late model car that lasted for pushing 5 years before trading her in. I've also heard that OEM is a no brainer. Those looking for weight savings would lead me to believe that the Optima could maybe shave some poundage?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 49
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From: Sydney, Australia
W203 06
Thanks for the input guys.
I just need the high cranking output dry-cell to run my sound system. On the stock battery my ESP, ABS and other electronics turn of when I'm cranking it and the car doesn't start sometimes.
I was advised to go with a high CA output and reserve capacity to run the car and sound system.
Might look into some Odyssey batteries, see if any can fit.
What is the height of the Red top your using? Does is sit higher than the stock battery?
I just need the high cranking output dry-cell to run my sound system. On the stock battery my ESP, ABS and other electronics turn of when I'm cranking it and the car doesn't start sometimes.
I was advised to go with a high CA output and reserve capacity to run the car and sound system.
Might look into some Odyssey batteries, see if any can fit.
What is the height of the Red top your using? Does is sit higher than the stock battery?
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From: Westwood, NJ
2004 Civic Si. FWD for the Win!
If it were for weight savings, a Braille or Odyssey would be better. I switched from a yellow top to an Odyssey small battery in my crx, and it was a serious drop in poundage.
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Diamond Bar, CA
W206 PHEV AMG
Thanks for the input guys.
I just need the high cranking output dry-cell to run my sound system. On the stock battery my ESP, ABS and other electronics turn of when I'm cranking it and the car doesn't start sometimes.
I was advised to go with a high CA output and reserve capacity to run the car and sound system.
Might look into some Odyssey batteries, see if any can fit.
What is the height of the Red top your using? Does is sit higher than the stock battery?
I just need the high cranking output dry-cell to run my sound system. On the stock battery my ESP, ABS and other electronics turn of when I'm cranking it and the car doesn't start sometimes.
I was advised to go with a high CA output and reserve capacity to run the car and sound system.
Might look into some Odyssey batteries, see if any can fit.
What is the height of the Red top your using? Does is sit higher than the stock battery?
if you do need to run aftermarket sound system you do need the yellow top. red top is fine for daily driving.
the red top is heck of a lot lighter than the oem battery btw.
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Orange County
2005 C Wagon (No snickering please!)
It is possible that deterioration of the plate surface has caused a reduction in available current. A load test with a modern electronic load tester and a reading of the specific gravity of the electrolyte will let you know if a new battery is needed.
How is your power amplifier connected? Most installers put them in the trunk (boot) and tap the 8 AWG wire on the rear fuse block that comes from the battery. There is a little head room there, but for serious head banging it will cause the voltage in the trunk to brown out. There are several solutions to this. Run a large wire from the battery to the trunk (boot) so the heavy current drawn by the amp only lowers the voltage in its own wire. Instead of a single 8 AWG, you could use use two 10 AWG wires. You might also want to check the negative side of the battery and make sure the connection to chassis is sound. This all assumes that your alternator is working properly and the regulator is behaving. Another solution is to place a large capacitor at the terminals of the amplifier. This is seldom a cure for an amp that is browning out the power supply. The cap can only help a poorly designed amp that does not have enough internal regulation to keep operating at music peaks.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 49
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From: Sydney, Australia
W203 06
This sounds like maybe you are still using the original battery? Or an aftermarket market unit that "fits?"
It is possible that deterioration of the plate surface has caused a reduction in available current. A load test with a modern electronic load tester and a reading of the specific gravity of the electrolyte will let you know if a new battery is needed.
How is your power amplifier connected? Most installers put them in the trunk (boot) and tap the 8 AWG wire on the rear fuse block that comes from the battery. There is a little head room there, but for serious head banging it will cause the voltage in the trunk to brown out. There are several solutions to this. Run a large wire from the battery to the trunk (boot) so the heavy current drawn by the amp only lowers the voltage in its own wire. Instead of a single 8 AWG, you could use use two 10 AWG wires. You might also want to check the negative side of the battery and make sure the connection to chassis is sound. This all assumes that your alternator is working properly and the regulator is behaving. Another solution is to place a large capacitor at the terminals of the amplifier. This is seldom a cure for an amp that is browning out the power supply. The cap can only help a poorly designed amp that does not have enough internal regulation to keep operating at music peaks.
It is possible that deterioration of the plate surface has caused a reduction in available current. A load test with a modern electronic load tester and a reading of the specific gravity of the electrolyte will let you know if a new battery is needed.
How is your power amplifier connected? Most installers put them in the trunk (boot) and tap the 8 AWG wire on the rear fuse block that comes from the battery. There is a little head room there, but for serious head banging it will cause the voltage in the trunk to brown out. There are several solutions to this. Run a large wire from the battery to the trunk (boot) so the heavy current drawn by the amp only lowers the voltage in its own wire. Instead of a single 8 AWG, you could use use two 10 AWG wires. You might also want to check the negative side of the battery and make sure the connection to chassis is sound. This all assumes that your alternator is working properly and the regulator is behaving. Another solution is to place a large capacitor at the terminals of the amplifier. This is seldom a cure for an amp that is browning out the power supply. The cap can only help a poorly designed amp that does not have enough internal regulation to keep operating at music peaks.
Im running 4AWG wires to the sub amp and 8AWG wires to the speaker amp, both from the battery. I have soundstream, boston aqoustics and alpine gear so its can peak for a while, thats when the electronics start stuffing up.
The stock alternator is 150 AMP ive been told so that should suffice
I found an oddessey battery, its the PC1750.
It has a discharge rate of 1750 amps every 5 seconds. That's not enough to cause any electrical issues is it?
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From: bay area, california
Aston Martin V8 Vantage
stinger makes a much smaller battery as well and does the same function as the yellow top optima, if not better. we used to use the yellow top optimas at our shop and stopped using them and switched over to stinger. not looking back on it. but, for what you are doing either way will work. the yellow top's main use is for car audio systems.
post 2,000
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