SRS Light - steps to take before taking to a dealer
Reading through previous threads on the topic it seems that most people recommend taking the car to the dealer since they have the computer that can read the codes correctly. There are several things that can be wrong and most likely it's one of the sensors that is bad, but only the dealer can tell for sure.
Is there anything else that we can do to troubleshoot prior to taking to the dealer to rule out something that can cause the SRS light to come on? For example, I unplugged each wire under the passenger seat one by one and cleaned the contacts with the electronic contact cleaner spray. Reconnected and drove the car for a couple of days but the light is still on. Anything else that one can try first?
$85 later and about 7 minutes for the indy to clear it, I was on my way. I wished that they really worked for the $85 but it was the easiest money that they made
Here is the DIY thread for the seat sensor and the description of the problem: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...placement.html




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Here is the DIY thread for the seat sensor and the description of the problem: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...placement.html
Here is the DIY thread for the seat sensor and the description of the problem: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...placement.html
I made the silly mistake of starting my SL600 while sitting in the passenger seat. If you've not done this before, don't. Unfortunately, you will create a condition in which the car thinks that the driver seat sensor is faulty. I should have known better, I started my S500 with my knee in the passenger seat after opening all of the doors to treat the leather - Same thing happened then.
Does anyone know where to get the user manual for Carsoft 7.4? It has a ton of abbreviations and functions and a user manual would be great to try to figure out some of the functions.
Also, mine threw no codes that I could read via my Bullydog or OBDII code reader, so even if the horn is working, it's still a possible cause because the horn portion of the ribbon cable inside the clockspring may still be intact. Let me know if you have any questions. I hope this helps!
- Matt
Also, mine threw no codes that I could read via my Bullydog or OBDII code reader, so even if the horn is working, it's still a possible cause because the horn portion of the ribbon cable inside the clockspring may still be intact. Let me know if you have any questions. I hope this helps!
- Matt

After a week of the SRS Light, I found my dash clear of the light after some 20-30 starts. Remember, I tripped mine while starting the engine from the passenger seat. It made a brief appearance only once since and now I'm on day 4 or 5 without the light. Yes, it still comes on at startup as part of the bulb check but apparently, the car is smart enough to clear the matter up itself if it finds that the fault no longer exists.
Has this happened to any of you?
Does anyone know where to get the user manual for Carsoft 7.4? It has a ton of abbreviations and functions and a user manual would be great to try to figure out some of the functions.
B1035 - Ignition circuit front left sidebag: > Ohm (open circuit).
B1035 - Ignition circuit front left sidebag: > Ohm (open circuit).
From http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w209...ssistance.html
and http://www.justanswer.com/mercedes/1...-door-srs.html
SRS - Warning Lamp ON/DTC's B1035/B1037/B103B/B1039
All Model Years
SRS Indicator Lamp On
If you receive customer reports in the above model vehicles that the SRS light is illuminated and diagnostic fault code(s) B1035, B1037, B1038 and/or B1039 are stored in the SRS ECU, the resistance in R12/11, R12/12, R12/20 or R12/21 ignition circuits for the sidebag squibs may be too high. This high resistance is caused by either of the following:
^ The left front door separation point connector X35/1,
^ The right front door separation point connector X35/2,
^ The left rear door separation point connector X35/3
^ The right rear door separation point connector X35/4.
To resolve, remove connectors from the wires for sidebags in the left and right front footwells and the left and right rear entryways and connect wires directly. Please follow the below procedure to repair.
Note: Always perform procedure on all 4 connectors.
1. Remove ignition key.
2. Remove A-pillar paneling in front foot well and door sill molding. Remove left front floor covering per WIS document AR68.20-P-2050P and right front floor covering per WIS document AR68.20-P-2070P.
3. Remove left and right rear door sill molding.
4. Expose wiring harness. Figure 1 shows connector for front doors X35/1 (left front door separation point) and X35/2 (right front door separation point). Wiring for rear door connectors X35/3 (left rear door separation point) and X35/4 (right rear door separation point) are similar. Wiring diagram of airbag control module with integrated E-call system can be found in WEB ETM document 91.60-U-2101FA.
5. Remove connectors and connect wires directly with solder connectors.
(A). Cut line approx. 10 mm in front of and behind connector.
(B). Remove about 20 mm of fabric tape on the control unit side.
(C). Strip about 15 mm of insulation from the wire.
(D). Slide solder connector onto wires.
(E). Twist both wire ends together, observing the wire color assignment.
(F). Position solder connector in the middle and shrink it on (solder) using a heat gun.
Utilize wiring harness repair set 220 589 02 99 00 and heat gun part no. 458-HL1802E via the MBUSA Standard Service Equipment Program.
(G). Inspect solder connection.
(H). Tape up both ends of the wires.
6. Delete fault memory with STAR DIAGNOSIS.
7. Install in the reverse order.




