Brake squeel?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 330
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1987 300E, 1995 C280
Brake squeel?
my girlfriend had her brakes done 3 months ago, they've been working fine but now they squeel like their going out only during low speeds randomly :/
braking power is still about the same
btw she have an 2007 c230K sports package
anyone have ideas?
i can't really see how much life the brake pad has without the wheel off, or perhaps i don't know what to look for :P
braking power is still about the same
btw she have an 2007 c230K sports package
anyone have ideas?
i can't really see how much life the brake pad has without the wheel off, or perhaps i don't know what to look for :P
Last edited by funkgab; Feb 17, 2013 at 04:25 AM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 330
Likes: 0
1987 300E, 1995 C280
thanks guys, well its my girlfriend's car i think her dad just went to a shop he knows and they did it.. i doubt they applied anti squeel paste.. since they are not MB specialists and a general shop, i will check it out tomorrow or get em checked!
how do i properly check a rotor? and i thought sanding/machining vented rotors are bad.
also if i were to do her pads, what should i clean the rotor with? just brake cleaner? and is there a special tool i need for MB calipers and do i also need a special tool for the pins holding the caliper?
how do i properly check a rotor? and i thought sanding/machining vented rotors are bad.
also if i were to do her pads, what should i clean the rotor with? just brake cleaner? and is there a special tool i need for MB calipers and do i also need a special tool for the pins holding the caliper?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,848
Likes: 15
From: Orange County
2005 C Wagon (No snickering please!)
You cannot machine MB rotors. The workshop lathes do not have the precision to properly cut the rotors. You can sand by hand good rotors when changing pads to remove old dust from the surface.
The rotors are so cheap now there is little reason not to change them.
The hubs should be polished with a wire brush to assure the rotors run true.
The calipers must be cleaned with a perc cleaner and the rear of the new pads must be lubed with the sauce supplied in the little packet.
There should be a light film of grease on the sliding ways of the pads.
Do these things and your brakes will not squeel.
The only special tools you need are a proper piston resetting tool and a brake dial indicator to measure runout if reusing rotors. A standard pin punch works on the pins.
My experience is that front rotors are near the minimum thickness after one set of pads, and the wear limit is reached at 80 to 90% wear of the second set of pads. The rear rotors are good for a couple set of pads.
The rotors are so cheap now there is little reason not to change them.
The hubs should be polished with a wire brush to assure the rotors run true.
The calipers must be cleaned with a perc cleaner and the rear of the new pads must be lubed with the sauce supplied in the little packet.
There should be a light film of grease on the sliding ways of the pads.
Do these things and your brakes will not squeel.
The only special tools you need are a proper piston resetting tool and a brake dial indicator to measure runout if reusing rotors. A standard pin punch works on the pins.
My experience is that front rotors are near the minimum thickness after one set of pads, and the wear limit is reached at 80 to 90% wear of the second set of pads. The rear rotors are good for a couple set of pads.
