I have a factory HID on my C230 sedan. Passenger HID does not work, I switched light bulb and determined passenger ballast (igniter) is bad.

Amazon has the part for $207.

Ouch! Any way to get around it?

 

I would find one on ebay as they can be found for way cheaper. Also have you switched the ballast from one side to the other yet? The ballast is not known to go bad very often at all but the Igniter which is inside the light and requires the headlight being opened is known to have some issues.

 

For this thread sake, I am going to call this Amazon item "ballast". I am not aware of igniter inside head light housing.

At first I was going to switch the ballast on both sides to verify but the driver side's is between windshield washer bottle and head light. Too much trouble to swap around. I just switched the light bulbs and determined right side is bad.

eBay is $190 and for $17 more, I rather buy from Amazon.

 

This is what the igniter looks like
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-01-06-Mercedes-C-03-06-CLK-Class-Xenon-IGNITER-IGNITOR-HID-Bulb-SOCKET-/230981983487?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35c7995cff&vxp=mtr#ht_397wt_1161
I have dealt with many issues with the BIX in the W203 and have helped a few others with Mercedes Xenon lights and have never had an issue with a Ballast it has always been bulbs and Igniters. I know that switching the Ballast is a pain but I would highly recommend it before dropping that much on a new Ballast.

Whatever the case keep us updated it is always interesting to see what fixes it in the end.

 

Taiwanese, I had HID issues with my setup (OEM parts) as well. Here are the steps. If 1) doesn't fix, go to 2), then 3).

1) swap bulbs. I assume you've already done that.
2) swap ballasts. Why? This is much easier than an igniter swap. Confirm both ballasts work first. These are held onto the bottom of each headlight by 3 screws. Yes you will need to remove the driver's (L) side headlight partially, as the washer fluid tank gets in the way.
3) Replace igniters. Actually I had the ones samaritrey posted (aka "2 rubber hoses") go bad twice on me. I would recommend you do NOT get this part.

This is the one you want: AL part# 1-307-329-076. This exact same part is also used as OEM equipment in cars such as Ford, Volvo, BMW, Mini, Audi, and VW, among others, and possibly some other MB lines. Use those search terms to find this part for less. I found a "Volvo" one for some $60 on eBay.

For the record, I did not make this solution up - this was the part MBenzNL sent me after the replacement igniter he sent me (2 rubber hoses) also failed.

The 076 part is also superior to the original for several reasons.
1) you can do this replacement WITHOUT having to remove the headlight, or opening up the seal on the housing. I did this fix on the spot in the garage.
2) The ignition voltage on this one is 30kV, while the original is only 25kV or so iirc. Higher is better (the original ones flickered because the voltage was too low to create an arc), and also means your bulbs last longer! (as HID bulbs age, they need a progressively higher ignition voltage)
3) Oh, and did I mention this part is also half the price of the original, even for used? MB mark-up is bad enough.

 

**disclaimer** I drive a W203 coupe. Do your homework to see if this solution works for a sedan if that's what you drive. Sedan headlights are different from those of a coupe.

When buying this part used, request that the seller also include the 3-pin connector and some 20-30cm of wiring. You don't actually need that much, but better to be safe.

Tools:
- sidecutters
- at least 3 crimps (3 + whatever you screw up on)
- crimping tool
- soldering equipment (optional, but I would recommend this)

Take the side cutters and sever(!) the 2 rubber hoses of the old igniter. Cut as far in (ie close to the module inside the light) as you can. You won't be needing this.

Find the 3 wires (red, green, black) going into the original igniter, and slice these too. Cut as close to the igniter as possible.

Splice and solder/crimp each of the 3 wires from the headlight to the 3 wires that came with your new igniter. Obviously you want to match the colours. (red, green, black)

The new igniter needs to be popped into the housing (with the bulb) and turned about 45deg clockwise, WITHOUT having the wire connected. There is a safety catch that prevents you from doing so. After you've popped this in, plug the wire in. This part is a biotch as you have very LITTLE room, especially on the driver's side headlight. Hard to explain how this part works, but play with the assembly before and notice how the clear/white ring piece works, in terms of securing the bulb, and allowing the wire to plug in.

I replaced one of mine in 2004, and the other in 2010. Both have worked flawlessly ever since. Here is a pic of one installed in my car. Crappy pic because of limited space.

I actually wrote a DIY on mbklasse (anyone remember that site?), but that is no more.

Good luck.

 

Dorman HID control module 601-050 (ballast) fixed it. The head light is working properly now. It does not turn on as fast as the driver side with factory ballast but it works. It's about a second delay (built up the voltage?). Let's see how long it last.

Thanks for the info on the igniter. I'll keep it in mind.

 

A little how to on replacing this ballast.
1. Remove wheel
2. Remove 4 clips under bumper, image below


3. Remove 1 clip and 3 screws inside wheel well, image below


4. Remove 3 screws on ballast (pic taken after Dorman installed.)










I used my friend's shop lift so it's easier to do. It's still doable at home garage with jack and jack stands.

 

Glad its fixed

 

It worked for one day.

Now the head light turns on (after a little delay and flicker for the first 1-2 seconds) but the dash shows head light error.



Slammer111,

Looks like I need to get the part you suggested.

 

Hope you can return the ballast if it is not the issue. I would still try to switch the ballast off the good light to see if issue moves. Throwing parts at this can get expensive (i ended up with an extra bix headlight 2 or 3 ballasts and 2 or 3 ignitors and probably 3 or 4 sets of bulbs)

 

I wish I knew. I could have bought the igniter from you.
Ballast was bought from Amazon so I can return it. I am waiting for igniter to arrive then I can figure out which part is bad.

 

samaritrey,

My order of igniter was cancelled due to out of stock. Do you want to sell me your AL part# 1-307-329-076?

 

I don't have any of the updated parts only two of the old design and I don't know which is the one that kills bubls and which one is the good one (I sold my stock of extra parts and couldn't sell these two ignitors because I knew one would kill a hid bulb in about a month or two)

 

I had the same ignitor issue, I had someone installed a after market ballast for me
and it works
he also changed the bulb too
because the D2S bulb does not fit the new ballast
I can check my car tonight and let you know

hey Ed, you are back online, welcome back

 

alanchan,

My first thought was to install after market ballast but after taking out the old ballast (see my image above), I don't know how to hook it up. And also worry if dash message will clear if I install after market ballast.

Any help will be appreciated.

 

I can't remember how the guy did it
I don't think its that hard to do
but it works on my car
I only paid $100 for parts and labour
and I don't think the car's computer will know the difference between OEM ballast and after market ballast
I assume your car and my car is programmed to xenon ready
I will check tonight, what is your email address?
If I can get pictures, I will email to you
Ed (slammer111) is my buddy, we both live in the same city, he taugh me so much about
cars.....

 

alanchan,

Thanks for the quick reply.
Mine has OEM bi-xenon so it's already set to xenon present.
Does yours have OEM bi-xenon?

pnsxlee
at
gmail.com

 

Taiwanese, why are you hesitant to pick up an OEM ballast? They're cheap on eBay. I just ran a quick search and there are 2 going for $90USD. One is listed as Mini Cooper, the other is VW Jetta.

If you use OEM (ie 35W) parts, recoding to Xenon = Present is mandatory. If you install an aftermarket combo that draws 55W, no recoding is necessary. Since your car came with HIDs, you don't need recoding.

"Do it right or do it twice.."

 

I don't know why but it worked again on OEM ballast
Here is what happened. I know there are three variable that could cause it not to light up. They are light bulb, ignitor / igniter and ballast / control module.
swapped good light bulb = not work, so not the light bulb
swapped good ballast = works, so igniter is good
Dorman ballast only worked one day. Just to try I put the OEM ballast back into the car and it WORKS. I don't know why but it works.
My shop friend was telling me, it maybe due to heat. It may not work again when it's too hot or weather is too hot.

 

slammer111

I don't like eBay due to their policy on only taking Paypal and OEM ballast are used. Buying used parts takes a lot of risks. No return on eBay mostly.

Instead of $90, I paid $220 with tax for Dorman from Amazon. It's not OEM but it's new and I can return it if needs to. In this case, I am going to return this Dorman because it only lasts one day.

 

note to self for future reference
1 307 329 066 OEM part number for HID control unit (ballast)

 

Taiwanese got a point, used items on ebay are so risky...
anyway, Peter glad it works now
cheers

 

alanchan,

Thanks for all your emails. I know I will be back.

 

you are very welcome Peter,

I am driving to Portland OR this weekend for a 4 day trip
try to do some shopping there.... tax free