Speaker Wiring
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 27
Likes: 1
2007 C230 Sport, 1991 Mr2 Turbo, 1987 Volvo 760 Wagon Turbo
Speaker Wiring
So,
I want to install my sub nothing fancy or special and I want to keep the factory unit and speakers and leave it as stock as possible.
So I got a Hi/Lo Converter with Remote Sensing.
I have a c230 Sport Sedan with the base system. No Bose or Sub on the rear lid.
It looks like there are rear speaker slots they have no speakers in them but would they if I had the upgraded system?
I thought the battery was in the trunk for a second but to my disappointment it is not. So basically what I am asking is....
Is there a safe 12v source in the trunk for the amp and are there a set of wires I could use for my reference signal to the Converter so I don't have to go into the door speakers?
I want to use 4 gauge for my amp wire.
And the rest won't be anything thinker than 10 gauge.
Anyone had any luck with this set up?
I want to install my sub nothing fancy or special and I want to keep the factory unit and speakers and leave it as stock as possible.
So I got a Hi/Lo Converter with Remote Sensing.
I have a c230 Sport Sedan with the base system. No Bose or Sub on the rear lid.
It looks like there are rear speaker slots they have no speakers in them but would they if I had the upgraded system?
I thought the battery was in the trunk for a second but to my disappointment it is not. So basically what I am asking is....
Is there a safe 12v source in the trunk for the amp and are there a set of wires I could use for my reference signal to the Converter so I don't have to go into the door speakers?
I want to use 4 gauge for my amp wire.
And the rest won't be anything thinker than 10 gauge.
Anyone had any luck with this set up?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,848
Likes: 15
From: Orange County
2005 C Wagon (No snickering please!)
Get in the trunk with a flashlight and look up. You might already have a sub and midrange speaker mounted there, even with a base system. The sub is a reverse magnet type and is only about an inch thick.
There is plenty of juice in the rear for your amp. You don't need 4 AWG for your amp. You don't need 10 AWG. There are several unused fuse ports on the rear SAM. Simply install the correct fuse and pick one for your amp. 12 or 14 AWG is plenty for the short run to the amp. Fuse position 17 and 18 are good for 20 amps each. They normally feed the trailer module and lights, which no one in America uses. Don't use a farad cap or expensive wire. It will sound fine.
By 2007 Dr. Z had stripped all the extra wiring out of the C class, so if you have no existing sub under the package shelf, there will be no wiring. Your best bet is to tap the speaker wires going to the rear doors. Personally I see no reason to have a stereo input to the sub amp, so I'd tap only one side by fishing a line into the door sill from the trunk and splice to the rear door speaker wires. 22 AWG is plenty for the signal input to the sub amp.
If you take off the rear door panel to buzz the speaker wire to the sill wires, I suggest a large piece of dynamat on the inside of the door skin to keep it from rattling.
There is plenty of juice in the rear for your amp. You don't need 4 AWG for your amp. You don't need 10 AWG. There are several unused fuse ports on the rear SAM. Simply install the correct fuse and pick one for your amp. 12 or 14 AWG is plenty for the short run to the amp. Fuse position 17 and 18 are good for 20 amps each. They normally feed the trailer module and lights, which no one in America uses. Don't use a farad cap or expensive wire. It will sound fine.
By 2007 Dr. Z had stripped all the extra wiring out of the C class, so if you have no existing sub under the package shelf, there will be no wiring. Your best bet is to tap the speaker wires going to the rear doors. Personally I see no reason to have a stereo input to the sub amp, so I'd tap only one side by fishing a line into the door sill from the trunk and splice to the rear door speaker wires. 22 AWG is plenty for the signal input to the sub amp.
If you take off the rear door panel to buzz the speaker wire to the sill wires, I suggest a large piece of dynamat on the inside of the door skin to keep it from rattling.
