Hello all. I am about to change the front brake pads on my vehicle (not the rotor). I currently have a set of Akebono front pads and one wearever sensor for the passenger side. I'm about to go to Advance Auto Parts to purchase an 18mm socket to remove the calipers but had a question. When the caliper comes out and is hung out of the way, will the piston move quickly or will I have enough time to grab a c-clamp to close the piston. Also, are there two pistons on our calipers? Should I purchase two c-clamps for both sides of the caliper or just one? Thanks.

 

18mm is a bit large for the caliper. That sounds like the caliper mounting bracket bolts. You do not need to remove the mounting bracket unless you are removing the rotor.

Remove two smaller pins from the inside (not the bolts holding the caliper together) and pull the caliper away from the hub. If there is a wide lip on the edge of the rotor the pads will stay in contact with the rotor. Use a wood stick if necessary to move the pads off the rotor by 1/16" to make it easier.

Everyone that tells you to use a C clamp is hunting off the reservation. A new caliper is expensive, and for safety push back the pistons with a piston resetting tool. Buy, borrow, rent one if necessary. If you cant the piston in the bore it will never work right.

If you have filled the reservoir to the full mark, take off the cap and remove some before pushing the pistons back. You don't want brake fluid spraying about the engine compartment. It will damage the paint almost instantly. An alternate method is to open the bleed valve on the caliper then forcing the fluid into a container as you reset the piston. This gets rid of the dirtiest of the fluid. Make sure you have the approved MB fluid on hand to top off if necessary.

It is necessary to flush the brake fluid every two calendar years. Corrosion will damage the system if you don't. Stress again get MB approved fluid to do the job.

When changing the sensor take a picture of the wiring position and be sure to lay the new sensor wire in exactly the same way.

I am not sure what is in the aftermarket kit, but you should use new hardware and some special lubricant on the back of the pads and on the sliding ways. You can get those at the dealer. All brake fasteners should be tightened to the specified torque. "Gud n tite" is as bad as "loosey goosey." If you have no torque wrench, beg or borrow one of those too.

The pistons will not move except where you put them. Just DO NOT touch the brake pedal. That could ruin your whole day as the ABS shoots the piston out of the bore.

Good luck. I like C17's too.

 

You don't need to pull off the caliper...just knock out the two retaining pins with a flat drift and pull out the pads. I agree, use a double bladed caliper reset tool and follow above directions. Then, put in new pads, and tap in the retainer pins until they bottom out. Done.

 

 

Do not open the bleeder screw/valve unless you plan to actually bleed your brakes. If you open the system there is a very high chance you will get air into the system if you don't bleed it properly.

Here is another Video also but all you have to do if you aren't changing the rotors is remove the 2 retaining pins.