2006 Mercedes C280 4matic Transfer Case Fluid Change DIY
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2006 Mercedes C280 4matic
2006 Mercedes C280 4matic Transfer Case Fluid Change DIY
I performed this service to get rid of the low speed grind/click noise while turning at low speeds. This noise comes from the transfer case and changing the fluid helped me eliminate it. So far i have changed the fluid twice and plan on continuing doing it until my car dies. Enjoy!
Transfer Case Fluid Change 2006 Mercedes C280 4matic W203
1. Vehicle must be cool before starting work, will be working near exhaust
2. Put vehicle on 4 jack stands, all 4 wheels need to be off the ground and free to rotate
3. Put vehicle in neutral and release parking brake
4. Support the transfer case from the bottom using either a jack or a jack stand
5. Remove the heat shield behind the transfer case by removing two nuts
6. Remove the bracket which the heat shield is connected too for more working space by removing two bolts
7. Remove two nuts located in the middle of the cross member plate which connect the rear engine mount to the cross member plate
8. Remove the cross member by removing 6 bolts, make sure the transfer case is supported from the bottom before this step!
9. Remove the rear engine mount from the transfer case by removing 4 bolts
10. Remove the vibration dampner by removing 3 torx screws, this will allow access to the drain bolt and inspection bolt. This step is very tricky because the vibration dampener is much heavier than it looks. Start by loosening the 3 torx screws. Then completely remove the bottom two screws, rotate the vibration dampener out of the way as much as possible, then remove the third torx screw. Be careful because as soon as the third torx screw comes out the dampener will fall like a rock!
11. Disconnect the drive shaft from the transfer case by removing the 3 bolts connecting the flexible rubber disk to the transfer case. The flexible disk must remain on the shaft. Rotate the drive shaft to position each bolt to the bottom, then use a socket and a wrench to remove the bolt. Repeat for remaining two bolts.
12. Separate the flexible rubber disk from the transfer case. This will give access to the fill bolt. This step is also very tricky. Use a long screw driver and place it between the flexible disk and the transfer case connection and pry. Rotate drive shaft and pry again, keep repeating until the flexible disk separates.
13. Push the drive shaft back and out of the way as much as possible, make sure to remember how the flexible disk was attached to the transfer case, use a white marker to mark one of the bolt locations.
14. Remove the fill bolt first located at the very top of the transfer case. Use an extension for better leverage. The bolt will be tough to loosen so be patient and careful.
15. Remove inspection bolt located in the middle of the vibration dampener area. Fluid may start to leak so be prepared with a drain pan and a long funnel
16. Remove the drain bolt located at the bottom of the transfer case, fluid will rush out. Let the old fluid drain for at least 15 minutes.
17. Replace the drain bolt and torque it properly, do not strip by over torquing.
18. Start filling the transfer case with approved ATF Fluid through the fill hole at the top of the transfer case, less than a quart is needed, I used Shell ATF-134. Pump slowly or the fluid will start coming out of the fill hole.
19. Keep pumping until fluid starts coming out of the inspection hole, be ready with an oil pan and funnel.
20. Drain the fluid for at least two minutes through the inspection hole, then replace the bolt.
21. Put a little more fluid in the transfer case after closing the inspection hole. This is in case the vehicle is not perfectly level.
22. Wait 15 minutes to see if any fluid leaks through the bolts, this will verify proper torquing of the drain bolt and inspection bolt.
23. Replace fill bolt, do not strip by over tightening.
24. Assemble in reverse order.
25. Take vehicle out for a drive in an open parking lot and perform 3 to 4 figure eights at low speed with wheel at full lock.
Transfer Case Fluid Change 2006 Mercedes C280 4matic W203
1. Vehicle must be cool before starting work, will be working near exhaust
2. Put vehicle on 4 jack stands, all 4 wheels need to be off the ground and free to rotate
3. Put vehicle in neutral and release parking brake
4. Support the transfer case from the bottom using either a jack or a jack stand
5. Remove the heat shield behind the transfer case by removing two nuts
6. Remove the bracket which the heat shield is connected too for more working space by removing two bolts
7. Remove two nuts located in the middle of the cross member plate which connect the rear engine mount to the cross member plate
8. Remove the cross member by removing 6 bolts, make sure the transfer case is supported from the bottom before this step!
9. Remove the rear engine mount from the transfer case by removing 4 bolts
10. Remove the vibration dampner by removing 3 torx screws, this will allow access to the drain bolt and inspection bolt. This step is very tricky because the vibration dampener is much heavier than it looks. Start by loosening the 3 torx screws. Then completely remove the bottom two screws, rotate the vibration dampener out of the way as much as possible, then remove the third torx screw. Be careful because as soon as the third torx screw comes out the dampener will fall like a rock!
11. Disconnect the drive shaft from the transfer case by removing the 3 bolts connecting the flexible rubber disk to the transfer case. The flexible disk must remain on the shaft. Rotate the drive shaft to position each bolt to the bottom, then use a socket and a wrench to remove the bolt. Repeat for remaining two bolts.
12. Separate the flexible rubber disk from the transfer case. This will give access to the fill bolt. This step is also very tricky. Use a long screw driver and place it between the flexible disk and the transfer case connection and pry. Rotate drive shaft and pry again, keep repeating until the flexible disk separates.
13. Push the drive shaft back and out of the way as much as possible, make sure to remember how the flexible disk was attached to the transfer case, use a white marker to mark one of the bolt locations.
14. Remove the fill bolt first located at the very top of the transfer case. Use an extension for better leverage. The bolt will be tough to loosen so be patient and careful.
15. Remove inspection bolt located in the middle of the vibration dampener area. Fluid may start to leak so be prepared with a drain pan and a long funnel
16. Remove the drain bolt located at the bottom of the transfer case, fluid will rush out. Let the old fluid drain for at least 15 minutes.
17. Replace the drain bolt and torque it properly, do not strip by over torquing.
18. Start filling the transfer case with approved ATF Fluid through the fill hole at the top of the transfer case, less than a quart is needed, I used Shell ATF-134. Pump slowly or the fluid will start coming out of the fill hole.
19. Keep pumping until fluid starts coming out of the inspection hole, be ready with an oil pan and funnel.
20. Drain the fluid for at least two minutes through the inspection hole, then replace the bolt.
21. Put a little more fluid in the transfer case after closing the inspection hole. This is in case the vehicle is not perfectly level.
22. Wait 15 minutes to see if any fluid leaks through the bolts, this will verify proper torquing of the drain bolt and inspection bolt.
23. Replace fill bolt, do not strip by over tightening.
24. Assemble in reverse order.
25. Take vehicle out for a drive in an open parking lot and perform 3 to 4 figure eights at low speed with wheel at full lock.
Newbie
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 1
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C280
Thanks
MNBEETIO
I wanted to thank you for this post. I had the same issue with my 2006 C280 and after wading through the panicked "your transfer case is toast" posts I found this excellent DIY post.
A couple of things I would add: In step 14 you might find it helpful to lower the tranny/transfer case a couple of inches to get better access to fill port. I had supported the back of my trans with a bottle jack so dropping it just a bit was easy.
As far as tools, reccommend you have socket drive hex keys for the fill and drain plugs. I started with "L" shaped hex wrenched and ended up running to auto parts store to get 3/8 socket drive hex keys (plus bandaids for bloody knuckles) Those plugs are in tight!
I wanted to thank you for this post. I had the same issue with my 2006 C280 and after wading through the panicked "your transfer case is toast" posts I found this excellent DIY post.
A couple of things I would add: In step 14 you might find it helpful to lower the tranny/transfer case a couple of inches to get better access to fill port. I had supported the back of my trans with a bottle jack so dropping it just a bit was easy.
As far as tools, reccommend you have socket drive hex keys for the fill and drain plugs. I started with "L" shaped hex wrenched and ended up running to auto parts store to get 3/8 socket drive hex keys (plus bandaids for bloody knuckles) Those plugs are in tight!
