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Ahhh...beautiful non metal-hitting-metal sound....glad it's all sorted..welcome to the club of people who don't have to worry about timing chain stretch for a while....
Ahhh...beautiful non metal-hitting-metal sound....glad it's all sorted..welcome to the club of people who don't have to worry about timing chain stretch for a while....
Yeap. I believe some chains have defects. There ARE differences between the chain that came with the car and the updated one that is sold now. I have compared them with calipers. God willing, I don't plan on doing this again until about 400k miles or so, this of course assuming I don't hear weird noises. I do not believe this should be a maintenance item, just need to swap to the new chain and change oil every 5 to 7k miles on car.
While 100k miles is not when the chain always has to be replaced, it is at least a good time to make very sure it doesn't need replacement. It would be a bit of a pain to accurately determine TDC to check against the pulley but better than going through what you went through! Not what you'd expect from MB!
Your video sure sounds like timing chain and crank pulley goodness to me!
This might be a way to reference if it has moved against the 0|T mark. There is something on the elastomer inscribed that says "WPC". Maybe this could be something? There is a mark with the U|T mark as you can see, but I can imagine that with time this gets erased.
This would have to be checked across another new pulley if someone has access to a new one.
Thanks Hogger. Together with your thread I feel there is a lot more information for the typical do it yourself project. I strongly believe that had the pulley not been shifted, I could have been able to have this done in two days.
Can you see the key way after taking the bolt out? It seems that the key way points to TDC (or very close).
If you take the bolt out you could definitely see the key way. Key way facing up, first piston should be at the top or TDC. To make things clearer, Key way on crank, or pulley has to be TDC or first piston at the highest.
Thanks! That's a lot easier than determining TDC from the position of the piston.
ncmudbug, honestly I would just take the first spark plug out, gently put a long screw driver down to rest on the piston. Slowly crank the crank pulley to 0 degree mark and watch if the screw driver is at the highest point. Do not rotate backwards. That's a lot better than removing that bolt. You need a special tool to lock the pulley, and a long bar to torque off that nut. You also risk stripping that nut.
The #1 piston does need to be at TDC, but. It needs to be there on the compression stroke. Otherwise you will be out 180 degrees.
You can rotate the engine without the spark plug and feel the air coming out of the hole, or make sure the valves are in the closed position. Preferable both.
Yeah, you're right, Hogger & Jpman. Usually you are confirming TDC with the degree wheel and valve position rather than confirming the degree wheel with the piston. I would hope that the degree wheel couldn't get 180 deg. out!
The #1 piston does need to be at TDC, but. It needs to be there on the compression stroke. Otherwise you will be out 180 degrees.
You can rotate the engine without the spark plug and feel the air coming out of the hole, or make sure the valves are in the closed position. Preferable both.
This^^^
As you find 0 degree on the crank put your thumb on the spark plug hole, if you feel air coming out then that is your compression stroke. Next just check 0 degree on pulley together with highest point on first piston. That should mark TDC for us.
Wanted to give an update since I finished the chain swap. The car has now done a little over 200 miles since the chain swap. No hiccups whatsoever. I plan on changing the oil at about 1k miles just to make sure any metal shavings from braking the chain or whatnot to be washed away with the oil or with the filter just as a precaution.
I bought 2003 c230 kompressor 84K with engine apart/camshafts removed. I assume timing chain has to be replaced. How I diagnose what have to be replaced?
i am new here but i have read forms for some time now i drive a c class 1.8 petrol 2007 engine light came on then went off then came on few days later turns out the chain jumped cause of it was the cam shaft gears garage said it looks like chain was done before but not the cam gears and they were worn badly big expensive job and i am out of work because i have no car only bought the car few months ago off a dealer got no warranty as he dropped the price so i could afford to buy it i have been looking around the internet for over a week getting different prices of cam gears single chain why i don't know from reading forms i would not buy a Mercedes again there should be a recall on my model as they are known to give chain trouble after 70000 it seams Mercedes have a lot to answer for
Hy. I have a big problem with... w211 camshaft adjuster... pls help me ... I changed 3 times ... and everytime the same problem... the bolt come aut...just say to me the way to fix this problem. Pls help!!! my name is Bud Dan from Romania on Facebook... 0040767400510
So, I’ve been following this timing chain thread for a while . I decided to pull the valve cover and check mine at 90k miles tell me your thoughts everyone. I checked it while the engine was overnight cold. Chain seems tight, I rotated the engine 4 times by hand and all my marks line up.
check my timing chain over the weekend, 140k km W203 M271 Aussie C200K. Found the timing marks good and chain was nice and tight. However I did find the inlet cam adjuster teeth to be worn. I found 2 groups of 3 teeth about half worn. I was wondering what people’s experience has been with worn teeth and tight chain relative to future failure. Ideally I should change the inlet adjuster but obviously this is a reasonable job. Noting about 17 teeth engage the chain, I am assuming when 3 worn teeth enter the chain, 14 others are doing the good work. Is this fair and should allow for a few more km yet.
10-10-2014, 03:05 PM
excellent tread
