Hey folks, i been dealing with a problem that i cant seem to fix it. Well, my front wheel on the driver side is spaced out for around 0.5 cm , the tip of the tire almost hit the fender, the other side of the car is pretty fine, i changed my shocks , got two bilstein B4's and the issue is still there, i dont have any spacers neither in front nor rear.The car has never been wrecked , i have it for about 2 years now but i can say that the problem started when i lowered the car tho i went for wheel alignment after but the problem is still there.Any thoughts on how to fix this issue? i wanna get new 19inch rims and just cant put spacers because of this issue or the front driver side will hit the fender with no issues on the other side.

 

bump!! Anyone? Maybe need new springs?

 

I'm having a little hard time understanding your question here. Just one side almost hits the top of the fender while the other is fine? Is the passenger spaced out the same distance?

I had a similar issue when I first starting running 19s, I had to get all 4 fenders rolled and pulled. I also had to run smaller tires up front, I went from 225 to 215 to avoid hitting a bump while making a turn and it buckling my fenders.

 

yeah sorry for my bad english, well, the driver side is spaced out at different distance than the passenger side, and i dont have spacers on, i spotted the difference when i lowered the car few months ago, it didnt exist before.

 

What kind of wheels do you have?
What size are they and are they staggered?

 

just did this paint to explain it more, the right side is the driver's front wheel .

 

mine are 18 inch AMG

 

I meant like, do you have exact wheel size spec, are they 18x8.5in? 9.5inch?

 

oh yes, 18x8.5 front, 18x9.5 inch rear.

 

Silly question here but... Did you make sure you didn't accidentally put the bigger size up front by mistake?

 

Just checked and theyre the same size but i bought bilstein coilovers today theyre used but look brand new , i will install em tomorrow and hopefully itll solve this issue cause i think my stock springs are twisted cause ibeen hearing a click when turning left or right.

 

Did you check the camber on both front wheels to see if they are leaning in the same? If the strut mount bushing is wearing it can allow the top of the strut to move - check the right side also to make sure it's not leaning in too much.

 

Well i just installed belstein coilovers with new strut mount bushing and the issue still there.My mechanic told me that it could be a bent frame maybe where the strut is up mounted ? I dont know but the car was never wrecked.for the cambers im not sure , didnt check em yet.

 

well guess what, that wheel is rubbing when turning left , that wheel is almost near the top of the fender from the inside while the other side is tight inside the fender , why it doesnt rub on there. I dont know what to do , im starting to hate this car.

 

Driver's side





Passenger's side

In the first pic , the top of the wheel is leaning towards the fender while in the second pic, the wheel is sitting tight in its right place inside the fender.

 

After doing so many researchs , it looks like its a camber issue i have the same problem , the top of the tire is tilted positively toward the top of the fender, if thats the case are the oem bolts adjustable or just get a set of new ones ?!

 

Offset bolts are available to adjust camber. Actually they have a pair of grooves that hold the control arm bushing in an offset position.

 

Fact is “Full front and rear wheel alignment” is no more!


Since the mid ‘90 model’s, with the ever increasing speed of vehicle assembly lines there has been no front or rear Camber (or front Caster) adjustment facility fitted OEM


Only current adjustment is front and rear Toe!

To attempt to return vehicle to factory specs to resolve costly premature inner edge tire wear, improve traction, and fix steering pull the only current alternative for Camber and Caster is to fit offset, slotted bolts (for the front only). But these are inaccurate - one only position bolts - offering a minimal .3 of one degree adjustment (3mm / 1/8”).

It’s no wonder many owners continually change tire brands or go from one MB Dealer or alignment shop to another trying to get it right/fix the problem!


We saw the need therefore "to fix it right the first time" by designing, developing, patenting (and re-instating from the 1990's) fully adjustable front (and rear) suspension for virtually all models.

The current K-MAC kits have up to 4 times the adjustment of these one only position offset bolts (both Positive or Negative). And unlike these one position bolts they can be accurately adjusted on car(under load) direct on alignment turntable (no need for labor intensive removal/replacement each time).


Providing ongoing full, precise adjustment of both Camber and Caster settings if altering suspension height, fitting wide profile tires/wheels, curb knock damage or being able to quickly fine tune/change specs on race days (extra Negative/plus track width to go deeper into the corners/lower lap times). With the unique K-MAC patented design only requiring use of a single wrench/no disassembly.

For the rear, similar kits for precise Camber adjustment (with additional Toe to compensate for the new Camber facility). Importantly unlike the alternative rear adjustable Camber control arms available K-MAC kits do not move top of tire outwards - this reducing essential clearance top of tire to outer fender when adjusting to fix premature inner edge tire wear/improve rear traction.


Also instead of spherical bearings as used on control arms which prematurely pound out allowing metal to metal contact. At K-MAC we have developed long life elastomer bushings.


Bonus with the four front and four rear bushes is that they are also designed with twice the load bearing area and replace the highest wearing suspension bushings. And with K-MAC no special tools are required to fit.


Note (Product background re bushings): Majority OEM bushes have air voids to allow 2 axis movement. So control arms can travel through their required arcs without binding, locking up.


Essential with today’s modern designs of “multi-link” arms with different angle mount points!


Yet most “aftermarket” replacement bushes the industry standard is to eliminate these air voids in an attempt to improve both steering response and reduce wheel hop, loss of traction under brake and acceleration.


The opposite is often the case – the elimination of the air voids causes even more severe wheel hop, loss of traction through binding, locking up of arms.


K-MAC bushes – with 50 years now of bush technology are designed without the air voids but where needed with “full 2 axis movement”. Result is power to the ground – maximum traction/acceleration/braking - along with noticeably improved directional control and steering response for highway driving, lane changing.