"Brake Pad Wear Visit thop"...but pads don't seem too worn?
#1
"Brake Pad Wear Visit thop"...but pads don't seem too worn?
My girlfriend's C240....says she needs pads; but, I went out and visually checked all four using a flashlight....and they all look to have about 1/3 to 1/2 of the pad left (not sure exactly how thick they are when brand new)?? We're talking about maybe (again, just visually with the wheel on):
fronts- 1/4" pad left
rears- 3/8" pad left
or, if you look at the thickness of about 80 pages from a book...that's what she has left, maybe 85. Seems like a lot. On my motorcycles, I wait until there is the equiv. of about 10-20 pages left before changing.
Being the extra efficient type, who likes to use 90-95% of things up before replacing......I would rather not replace pads early (this car is a work commuter only).
fronts- 1/4" pad left
rears- 3/8" pad left
or, if you look at the thickness of about 80 pages from a book...that's what she has left, maybe 85. Seems like a lot. On my motorcycles, I wait until there is the equiv. of about 10-20 pages left before changing.
Being the extra efficient type, who likes to use 90-95% of things up before replacing......I would rather not replace pads early (this car is a work commuter only).
Last edited by ironmtn; 02-21-2015 at 03:25 PM.
#2
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2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
The brake sensors on these cars trigger when there is some 5mm left. Cash grab if you ask me. New is 14mm or so.
It sounds like you don't mind getting your hands dirty, so what you need to do is at least replace the sensor (only 1 sensor for your car, in the front R wheel) so the warning goes away. However, instead of sticking it back into the brake pad hole, I tied mine to the brake hose with a piece of wire, so that it will never trigger anything.
Once you've done this, you'll obviously need to manually check your brakes to see if the parts need replacing. I find a set of front pads can last 70000km or so, and the rears last 90000km (possibly even more if you don't live in snowy conditions so your traction control never kicks in), mostly city driving. I've noticed that the piston side always wears faster. For the fronts it's the inside, and for the rears it's the outside iirc.
For your next set of front pads, if you do decide to use the wear sensor, I would recommend drilling a hole in the pads that is right up against the metal (the stock pads I looked at all had the hole 2-3mm away from the plate), to get as much wear as you can out of them.
The unwritten rule for rotors is 2 sets of pads per set of rotors - even my SA at the dealer told me this off the record. No need to measure anything.
Good luck.
It sounds like you don't mind getting your hands dirty, so what you need to do is at least replace the sensor (only 1 sensor for your car, in the front R wheel) so the warning goes away. However, instead of sticking it back into the brake pad hole, I tied mine to the brake hose with a piece of wire, so that it will never trigger anything.
Once you've done this, you'll obviously need to manually check your brakes to see if the parts need replacing. I find a set of front pads can last 70000km or so, and the rears last 90000km (possibly even more if you don't live in snowy conditions so your traction control never kicks in), mostly city driving. I've noticed that the piston side always wears faster. For the fronts it's the inside, and for the rears it's the outside iirc.
For your next set of front pads, if you do decide to use the wear sensor, I would recommend drilling a hole in the pads that is right up against the metal (the stock pads I looked at all had the hole 2-3mm away from the plate), to get as much wear as you can out of them.
The unwritten rule for rotors is 2 sets of pads per set of rotors - even my SA at the dealer told me this off the record. No need to measure anything.
Good luck.
Last edited by slammer111; 02-23-2015 at 05:17 AM.
#4
Super Moderator
I no longer trust the sensors as on my e class the pads were all different. The one with the sensor was just above tripping where one was gone and rivets were about to show themselves.
So just do a visual inspection on all 4 wheels occasionally like every tire rotation or oil change and you should be good!
So just do a visual inspection on all 4 wheels occasionally like every tire rotation or oil change and you should be good!
#5
Thanks so much! how stupid am I that I didn't even consider the inside pads could be worn more than the outsides...also, I only see the "top" of the pad; and the lower part could be worn more.
I guess I'll tell here to let it ride for a while or ask her mechanic while it's up in the air (she needs stuff done anyway....squeaky rear ball-joint) to take a look the inside pads to be sure there are miles left.
Tell me this someone.......I chance my own brake pads on my cars, trucks and motorcycles. Is there anything special about the C240? Or, is it your standard lift the car, remove wheel, remove caliper, pull pads, depress pistons, insert new pads, replace caliper, replace wheel.....lower car?
Standard DIY thing?
I guess I'll tell here to let it ride for a while or ask her mechanic while it's up in the air (she needs stuff done anyway....squeaky rear ball-joint) to take a look the inside pads to be sure there are miles left.
Tell me this someone.......I chance my own brake pads on my cars, trucks and motorcycles. Is there anything special about the C240? Or, is it your standard lift the car, remove wheel, remove caliper, pull pads, depress pistons, insert new pads, replace caliper, replace wheel.....lower car?
Standard DIY thing?
#6
Super Moderator
Brakes on the w203 are so easy so yes they are DIY just like any other car. Just remember like on most cars the rear rotors have the parking brake assembly inside them so you have to have the parking brake off to remove the rotor.
If you search on here you can find diy guides that have all the torque values and such. I would also recommend when pushing the calibers back that you crack the bleed valve I know some people do it and others don't with no issues I am in the why risk it camp. Good time to do a brake flush anyway.
If you search on here you can find diy guides that have all the torque values and such. I would also recommend when pushing the calibers back that you crack the bleed valve I know some people do it and others don't with no issues I am in the why risk it camp. Good time to do a brake flush anyway.