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W203 c230k m271 compression numbers?

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Old Dec 10, 2016 | 06:31 PM
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W203 c320
W203 c230k m271 compression numbers?

I'm getting conflicting information about what the numbers are supposed to be. Anyone have the info handy? M271
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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 07:58 PM
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Which car do you have? Your signature lists a C320 which has the M112 3.2L V6, but you're asking for the M271 which is the 1.8L I4.

For the I4 I was told anything above 150psi for the dry test is good. I had the tests done a few weeks ago and had 160psi dry 200psi wet across the board.

If anybody mentions you have low compression, try running a few tanks of Techron (either Chevron gas, or a bottle of the concentrate). Yes, this actually works.
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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 08:20 PM
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W203 c320
Originally Posted by slammer111
Which car do you have? Your signature lists a C320 which has the M112 3.2L V6, but you're asking for the M271 which is the 1.8L I4.

For the I4 I was told anything above 150psi for the dry test is good. I had the tests done a few weeks ago and had 160psi dry 200psi wet across the board.

If anybody mentions you have low compression, try running a few tanks of Techron (either Chevron gas, or a bottle of the concentrate). Yes, this actually works.
Sorry. Not sure why it says that, never owned a c320. I do own a c230 1.8l though. And yes, the dry test I did the numbers were between 115-135.
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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by slammer111
Which car do you have? Your signature lists a C320 which has the M112 3.2L V6, but you're asking for the M271 which is the 1.8L I4.

For the I4 I was told anything above 150psi for the dry test is good. I had the tests done a few weeks ago and had 160psi dry 200psi wet across the board.

If anybody mentions you have low compression, try running a few tanks of Techron (either Chevron gas, or a bottle of the concentrate). Yes, this actually works.
As the OP said, he bought a 2003 C230.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...any-codes.html

Imho, searching would've shown that the engine would likely need at least a rebuilt cylinder head.
That costs approx $6-9K+ by a dealer. And, that's just for the head R&R. That's not counting the very likely additional $$$ costs for needed items.
Figure ~2/3 rds that price, if done by an independent.
Figure $2K-$4K for a DYI - depends on many factors - like tools/etc.

Fwiw: When anyone posts just a single row of values for a compression test (... sigh ...), then imho, that says a lot about how much the person searches and desires to learn and do things correctly.


On the good news side...
I checked, wow. MB says it's okay to do a leak-down test on a hot M217 engine!!! Wow, most manufactures cringe if you even suggest removing a spark plug from an engine that isn't stone cold.


I've attached some documents from WIS.
Fwiw, the USA 2003-2005 M271 engine is an 271.948 engine.

Below are some easy to read info for the 271.948 engine, with some bar-to-psi conversions:

ENGINE 271.948

Compression pressure:
installation tolerance or new value
12 to 14.5 bar
(145 to 210 psi)


Compression pressure:
permissible difference between individual cylinders
<= 1.5 bar
(<= 22 psi)


Compression pressure:
wear limit or limit value
~10 bar
(145 psi)


.

Last edited by RedGray; Dec 13, 2016 at 09:10 PM.
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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 09:06 PM
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W203 c320
Originally Posted by RedGray
As the OP said, he bought a 2003 C230. It was a clearly a POS car. Imho, searching would've shown that the POS car would likely need at least a rebuilt cylinder head. Which costs approx $7-9K by a dealer. And, that's just for the head R&R. That's not counting the very likely additional $$$$ costs for needed items. Figure ~2/3 rds that price, if done by an independent. Figure $2K-$4K for a DYI - depends on many factors - like tools/etc.

Fwiw: When anyone posts just a single row of values for a compression test (... sigh ...), then imho, that says a lot about how much the person searches and desires to learn and do things correctly.

I checked, wow. MB says it's okay to do a leak-down test on a hot engine. Oh well, I knew that I was buying my engine a new head anyways. And, the timing chain in that engine had a super short expected remaining life as soon as the title was signed over to me.

My compression tests were really a "see I told you so", now let me get at that engine!!!!!

I've attached some documents.
Fwiw, the USA 2003-2005 M271 engine is an 271.948 engine.

And easy to read info with some bar-to-psi conversions:

ENGINE 271.948

Compression pressure:
installation tolerance or new value
12 to 14.5 bar
(145 to 210 psi)


Compression pressure:
permissible difference between individual bar
cylinders
<= 1.5 bar
(<= 22 psi)


Compression pressure:
wear limit or limit value
~10 bar
(145 psi)
YESSSSS THANK YOU! Now I'm excited again. I put my head swap on hold cuz wasn't sure what to do now. Now my team is ready and I can do the swap next weekend! Thanks again!
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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 09:11 PM
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Sounds like you have low compression across all 4 cylinders. Unless your engine is completely trashed, chances are you have that common head problem with carbon buildup, with the poor compression caused by the valves not seating properly.

Fill up your car with Chevron, and drive around at 4-5k rpm for a few days (ie Italian tune-up). Yes it's ghetto, but in my case it was enough to allow all the valves to seat properly again. The head for the early build M271 (2003-2004) is known to have problems. My understanding is that MB updated the head for the 2005 to reduce or eliminate the build-up problem. However, the new parts aren't cheap unless you have access to a wrecker.

Last edited by slammer111; Dec 13, 2016 at 09:20 PM.
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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by denraweb@yahoo.
YESSSSS THANK YOU! Now I'm excited again. I put my head swap on hold cuz wasn't sure what to do now. Now my team is ready and I can do the swap next weekend! Thanks again!
If you're willing to do the head swap, I can try to help. There's a lot of missing information in WIS, etc.


BTW: You must check the cylinder walls. You should be able to see the crosshatch on all of the cylinder walls, for the whole exposed section (not counting the very top of the cylinder wall).
Also, you could have worn piston compression rings! That's what low compression results often show/indicate.
A wet test is suppose to help to show if the low compression is from rings or valves. Imho, that theory is more theory than fact. In fact, carbon build up and worn valve faces can also benefit from a wet compression test.

A leak-down test is best. But, a good enough air compressor is needed (with enough CFM at pressure).
I've done a few leak-down tests. Again, it's a testing aid. It does not always result in a strong/definitive conclusion.

You'll need to remove and put on a new timing chain.
Fwiw, from everything that I see, the IWIS timing chain looks to be exactly the same as the MB timing chain that I bought directly from a MB Dealer.
Yes, I bought both. Part of my C230K restoration is for me to learn and to play. :-)

http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Inf...48&SVSVSI=3528

Last edited by RedGray; Dec 13, 2016 at 09:26 PM.
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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 09:23 PM
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W203 c320
Originally Posted by slammer111
Sounds like you have low compression across all 4 cylinders. Unless your engine is completely trashed, chances are you have that common head problem with carbon buildup.

Fill up your car with Chevron, and drive around at 4-5k rpm for a few days (ie Italian tune-up). Yes it's ghetto, but in my case it was enough to allow all the valves to seat properly again. The head for the early build M271 (2003-2004) is known to have problems. My understanding is that MB updated the head for the 2005 to reduce or eliminate the build-up problem. However, the new parts aren't cheap unless you have access to a wrecker.
Wow never heard of that lol. Worth a shot. I actually have access to 2 wreckers which is why I was so eager to do the head swap.

Originally Posted by RedGray
If you're willing to do the head swap, I can try to help. There's A LOT of information not in WIS, etc.

You'll need to remove and put on a new timing chain.
Fwiw, from everything that I see, the IWIS timing chain looks to be exactly the same as the MB timing chain that I bought directly from a MB Dealer.
Yes, I bought both. Part of my C230K restoration is for me to learn and to play. :-)

http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Inf...48&SVSVSI=3528
Awesome. I'll look into that chain. I have a couple other proven chain kits saved. I'll add this one to the list. Thanks!
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Old Dec 14, 2016 | 01:39 AM
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The fact that you have low compression across all 4 cylinders leads me to suspect improperly seated valves. A single bad cylinder would more likely be piston rings, while 2 bad adjacent cylinders would often suggest a bad head gasket. Of course a complete teardown would reveal everything, but obviously it would be prudent to try the cheap fixes first if it doesn't damage the vehicle.
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Old Dec 14, 2016 | 01:55 AM
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W203 c320
Originally Posted by slammer111
The fact that you have low compression across all 4 cylinders leads me to suspect improperly seated valves. A single bad cylinder would more likely be piston rings, while 2 bad adjacent cylinders would often suggest a bad head gasket. Of course a complete teardown would reveal everything, but obviously it would be prudent to try the cheap fixes first if it doesn't damage the vehicle.
Thanks for the input! That's my thinking with the loads of info pouring in now. Never knew these engines had the carbon problem. Tomorrow I'm gonna try to see if I can get my borescope in enough to see the valves. Either that or pull my header back and look in the ports.
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Old Dec 16, 2016 | 06:21 AM
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RedGray, where are you pulling all those documents? Sounds like you have quite the trove there. I'm not even sure my dealer knows about the ones you posted there. They were the ones who told me about the 150psi rule of thumb.
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Old Dec 16, 2016 | 03:06 PM
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I still say you gotta do the seafoam 1st.
I told a friend with a 2003 C230 about it, and it basically fixed the issues with the valves seating. Compression increased.
What do you have to lose?
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