W203 c230k m271 compression numbers?
12-13-2016, 07:58 PM
#3
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2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
Which car do you have? Your signature lists a C320 which has the M112 3.2L V6, but you're asking for the M271 which is the 1.8L I4.
For the I4 I was told anything above 150psi for the dry test is good. I had the tests done a few weeks ago and had 160psi dry 200psi wet across the board.
If anybody mentions you have low compression, try running a few tanks of Techron (either Chevron gas, or a bottle of the concentrate). Yes, this actually works.
For the I4 I was told anything above 150psi for the dry test is good. I had the tests done a few weeks ago and had 160psi dry 200psi wet across the board.
If anybody mentions you have low compression, try running a few tanks of Techron (either Chevron gas, or a bottle of the concentrate). Yes, this actually works.
12-13-2016, 08:20 PM
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W203 c320
Which car do you have? Your signature lists a C320 which has the M112 3.2L V6, but you're asking for the M271 which is the 1.8L I4.
For the I4 I was told anything above 150psi for the dry test is good. I had the tests done a few weeks ago and had 160psi dry 200psi wet across the board.
If anybody mentions you have low compression, try running a few tanks of Techron (either Chevron gas, or a bottle of the concentrate). Yes, this actually works.
For the I4 I was told anything above 150psi for the dry test is good. I had the tests done a few weeks ago and had 160psi dry 200psi wet across the board.
If anybody mentions you have low compression, try running a few tanks of Techron (either Chevron gas, or a bottle of the concentrate). Yes, this actually works.
12-13-2016, 09:01 PM
#5
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Which car do you have? Your signature lists a C320 which has the M112 3.2L V6, but you're asking for the M271 which is the 1.8L I4.
For the I4 I was told anything above 150psi for the dry test is good. I had the tests done a few weeks ago and had 160psi dry 200psi wet across the board.
If anybody mentions you have low compression, try running a few tanks of Techron (either Chevron gas, or a bottle of the concentrate). Yes, this actually works.
For the I4 I was told anything above 150psi for the dry test is good. I had the tests done a few weeks ago and had 160psi dry 200psi wet across the board.
If anybody mentions you have low compression, try running a few tanks of Techron (either Chevron gas, or a bottle of the concentrate). Yes, this actually works.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...any-codes.html
Imho, searching would've shown that the engine would likely need at least a rebuilt cylinder head.
That costs approx $6-9K+ by a dealer. And, that's just for the head R&R. That's not counting the very likely additional $$$ costs for needed items.
Figure ~2/3 rds that price, if done by an independent.
Figure $2K-$4K for a DYI - depends on many factors - like tools/etc.
Fwiw: When anyone posts just a single row of values for a compression test (... sigh ...), then imho, that says a lot about how much the person searches and desires to learn and do things correctly.
On the good news side...
I checked, wow. MB says it's okay to do a leak-down test on a hot M217 engine!!! Wow, most manufactures cringe if you even suggest removing a spark plug from an engine that isn't stone cold.
I've attached some documents from WIS.
Fwiw, the USA 2003-2005 M271 engine is an 271.948 engine.
Below are some easy to read info for the 271.948 engine, with some bar-to-psi conversions:
ENGINE 271.948
Compression pressure:
installation tolerance or new value
12 to 14.5 bar
(145 to 210 psi)
Compression pressure:
permissible difference between individual cylinders
<= 1.5 bar
(<= 22 psi)
Compression pressure:
wear limit or limit value
~10 bar
(145 psi)
.
Last edited by RedGray; 12-13-2016 at 09:10 PM.
12-13-2016, 09:06 PM
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W203 c320
As the OP said, he bought a 2003 C230. It was a clearly a POS car. Imho, searching would've shown that the POS car would likely need at least a rebuilt cylinder head. Which costs approx $7-9K by a dealer. And, that's just for the head R&R. That's not counting the very likely additional $$$$ costs for needed items. Figure ~2/3 rds that price, if done by an independent. Figure $2K-$4K for a DYI - depends on many factors - like tools/etc.
Fwiw: When anyone posts just a single row of values for a compression test (... sigh ...), then imho, that says a lot about how much the person searches and desires to learn and do things correctly.
I checked, wow. MB says it's okay to do a leak-down test on a hot engine. Oh well, I knew that I was buying my engine a new head anyways.
And, the timing chain in that engine had a super short expected remaining life as soon as the title was signed over to me.
My compression tests were really a "see I told you so", now let me get at that engine!!!!!
I've attached some documents.
Fwiw, the USA 2003-2005 M271 engine is an 271.948 engine.
And easy to read info with some bar-to-psi conversions:
ENGINE 271.948
Compression pressure:
installation tolerance or new value
12 to 14.5 bar
(145 to 210 psi)
Compression pressure:
permissible difference between individual bar
cylinders
<= 1.5 bar
(<= 22 psi)
Compression pressure:
wear limit or limit value
~10 bar
(145 psi)
Fwiw: When anyone posts just a single row of values for a compression test (... sigh ...), then imho, that says a lot about how much the person searches and desires to learn and do things correctly.
I checked, wow. MB says it's okay to do a leak-down test on a hot engine. Oh well, I knew that I was buying my engine a new head anyways.
And, the timing chain in that engine had a super short expected remaining life as soon as the title was signed over to me.My compression tests were really a "see I told you so", now let me get at that engine!!!!!
I've attached some documents.
Fwiw, the USA 2003-2005 M271 engine is an 271.948 engine.
And easy to read info with some bar-to-psi conversions:
ENGINE 271.948
Compression pressure:
installation tolerance or new value
12 to 14.5 bar
(145 to 210 psi)
Compression pressure:
permissible difference between individual bar
cylinders
<= 1.5 bar
(<= 22 psi)
Compression pressure:
wear limit or limit value
~10 bar
(145 psi)
12-13-2016, 09:11 PM
#7
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2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
Sounds like you have low compression across all 4 cylinders. Unless your engine is completely trashed, chances are you have that common head problem with carbon buildup, with the poor compression caused by the valves not seating properly.
Fill up your car with Chevron, and drive around at 4-5k rpm for a few days (ie Italian tune-up). Yes it's ghetto, but in my case it was enough to allow all the valves to seat properly again. The head for the early build M271 (2003-2004) is known to have problems. My understanding is that MB updated the head for the 2005 to reduce or eliminate the build-up problem. However, the new parts aren't cheap unless you have access to a wrecker.
Fill up your car with Chevron, and drive around at 4-5k rpm for a few days (ie Italian tune-up). Yes it's ghetto, but in my case it was enough to allow all the valves to seat properly again. The head for the early build M271 (2003-2004) is known to have problems. My understanding is that MB updated the head for the 2005 to reduce or eliminate the build-up problem. However, the new parts aren't cheap unless you have access to a wrecker.
Last edited by slammer111; 12-13-2016 at 09:20 PM.
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12-13-2016, 09:16 PM
#8
Super Member
BTW: You must check the cylinder walls. You should be able to see the crosshatch on all of the cylinder walls, for the whole exposed section (not counting the very top of the cylinder wall).
Also, you could have worn piston compression rings! That's what low compression results often show/indicate.
A wet test is suppose to help to show if the low compression is from rings or valves. Imho, that theory is more theory than fact. In fact, carbon build up and worn valve faces can also benefit from a wet compression test.
A leak-down test is best. But, a good enough air compressor is needed (with enough CFM at pressure).
I've done a few leak-down tests. Again, it's a testing aid. It does not always result in a strong/definitive conclusion.
You'll need to remove and put on a new timing chain.
Fwiw, from everything that I see, the IWIS timing chain looks to be exactly the same as the MB timing chain that I bought directly from a MB Dealer.
Yes, I bought both. Part of my C230K restoration is for me to learn and to play. :-)
http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Inf...48&SVSVSI=3528
Last edited by RedGray; 12-13-2016 at 09:26 PM.
12-13-2016, 09:23 PM
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W203 c320
Sounds like you have low compression across all 4 cylinders. Unless your engine is completely trashed, chances are you have that common head problem with carbon buildup.
Fill up your car with Chevron, and drive around at 4-5k rpm for a few days (ie Italian tune-up). Yes it's ghetto, but in my case it was enough to allow all the valves to seat properly again. The head for the early build M271 (2003-2004) is known to have problems. My understanding is that MB updated the head for the 2005 to reduce or eliminate the build-up problem. However, the new parts aren't cheap unless you have access to a wrecker.
Fill up your car with Chevron, and drive around at 4-5k rpm for a few days (ie Italian tune-up). Yes it's ghetto, but in my case it was enough to allow all the valves to seat properly again. The head for the early build M271 (2003-2004) is known to have problems. My understanding is that MB updated the head for the 2005 to reduce or eliminate the build-up problem. However, the new parts aren't cheap unless you have access to a wrecker.
If you're willing to do the head swap, I can try to help. There's A LOT of information not in WIS, etc.
You'll need to remove and put on a new timing chain.
Fwiw, from everything that I see, the IWIS timing chain looks to be exactly the same as the MB timing chain that I bought directly from a MB Dealer.
Yes, I bought both. Part of my C230K restoration is for me to learn and to play. :-)
http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Inf...48&SVSVSI=3528
You'll need to remove and put on a new timing chain.
Fwiw, from everything that I see, the IWIS timing chain looks to be exactly the same as the MB timing chain that I bought directly from a MB Dealer.
Yes, I bought both. Part of my C230K restoration is for me to learn and to play. :-)
http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Inf...48&SVSVSI=3528
12-14-2016, 01:39 AM
#10
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The fact that you have low compression across all 4 cylinders leads me to suspect improperly seated valves. A single bad cylinder would more likely be piston rings, while 2 bad adjacent cylinders would often suggest a bad head gasket. Of course a complete teardown would reveal everything, but obviously it would be prudent to try the cheap fixes first if it doesn't damage the vehicle.
12-14-2016, 01:55 AM
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W203 c320
The fact that you have low compression across all 4 cylinders leads me to suspect improperly seated valves. A single bad cylinder would more likely be piston rings, while 2 bad adjacent cylinders would often suggest a bad head gasket. Of course a complete teardown would reveal everything, but obviously it would be prudent to try the cheap fixes first if it doesn't damage the vehicle.
12-16-2016, 06:21 AM
#12
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RedGray, where are you pulling all those documents? Sounds like you have quite the trove there. I'm not even sure my dealer knows about the ones you posted there. They were the ones who told me about the 150psi rule of thumb.
12-16-2016, 03:06 PM
#13
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I still say you gotta do the seafoam 1st.
I told a friend with a 2003 C230 about it, and it basically fixed the issues with the valves seating. Compression increased.
What do you have to lose?
I told a friend with a 2003 C230 about it, and it basically fixed the issues with the valves seating. Compression increased.
What do you have to lose?
