Help!
#2
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Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Mid-Atlantic, USA
2005 W203 C320
Help!
The car was parked over night after a 240 miles trip yesterday, There is not a check engine light, but the scanner indicated code 335 = Crank Position Sensor. I erase it and still it won't start, check for fuel on the rail via the rail Shrader valve and fuel drip out, obviously is not under pressure or power as I am by myself (I really don't know how to check the fuel pump, I will try to find the proper fuse location and inspect during the day. I can not remember if it possible to hear a click or something from the tank/back seat area sending unit? This CPS and the AGM battery I had just installed in June 2017 and less then 2,500 miles ago, after the CPS I installed at 96K miles in Nov. 2014 and the AGM battery I had installed in July 2014 @ 94K. miles check badly. I had not had any electrical gremlins other than this up to now. Any Ideas or direction will be much appreciated.
#4
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From: Mid-Atlantic, USA
2005 W203 C320
The CPS came from Autozone, they listed a Bosch for $60.95 but did not have it in stock in either local store, so I went with their Brand which actually cost $54.95, it looked identical to the MB OE I remove, it came with a lifetime warranty. I Will try later today to test it, I am looking for info to test the CPS if I need be removed and replace it, and will also check for any fuel pressure issues, LOOKING FOR SPECS AND PROCEDURES SEQUENCE FOR THAT AS WELL. Thanks for your response!
Last edited by Allrevup; 08-11-2017 at 01:31 AM.
#6
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From: Mid-Atlantic, USA
2005 W203 C320
CPS
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Last edited by Allrevup; 08-11-2017 at 01:34 AM.
#7
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Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Mid-Atlantic, USA
2005 W203 C320
CPS, cranks won't start
Over the night and this morning, I have read several popular threads on this site and watch a couple of videos on YouTube and this is where I am...
I have not been able to get the engine started. I support the importance of good MB OE or OEM parts, but I am not sure that MB OE CPS failures were any less for this generation MB engines that place it in such a hot forsaken location. "2" CPS failures in 2.5 years and little more than 12K. miles ? The first back in Nov. 2014 @ 96K. and Just this past June 2014 @ 106K. miles, I also did the valve covers gaskets/air breathers, spark plugs/cables, clean the MAF sensor, engine & cabin filters, clean the entire assembly, replace pulleys/belt, oil/filter, flush P/S and a few other preventative things and since I had easy access that engine was clean before I started and after I finished and most wires check & connections were clean with electric cleaner and lube with dielectric grease. A few people never had any problems with it, could there be another roots cause for its failure?
Ok, Today, re-check battery voltage 12.5v., I just check the fuel pressure, 20 PSI with the switch off and 59 PSI with ignition on, 61 PSI or higher at high RPM, then pressurize with power OFF it stayed at 51 PSI, I guess that is OK?
Then I look at the MAF sensor it looked clean but once again I clean the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner. The Car did not start, and the check engine light has not come back on since I cleared code P335 last night.
Next, I removed the CPS, it had a little oil or dielectric grease, not much but some, put a voltage meter to the two prongs and exited it moving a metal piece close to the magnet it read 0.5mv - 164mv or higher if I moved it quickly. so according to a few videos that mean is working. Now what to do next? I need some input or suggestions, You are welcome to chime in
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Last edited by Allrevup; 08-11-2017 at 01:43 AM.
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#8
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Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Mid-Atlantic, USA
2005 W203 C320
CPS
After checking the CPS, MAF, fuel pressure and battery, I decided to rule it out and since it came with a warranty to just get and install a New one. Then I check for codes, zero, NONE then I tried 3-4 times and it would not start, then after 30 minutes the car roughly came to life and in seconds settle to a smooth idle, then once again check engine light came on, I keep it running at idle until it reached operating temperature, then shut it off and with a much better scanner again code "P0335 Sensor A Circuit", now it wont start again.
#10
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From: Mid-Atlantic, USA
2005 W203 C320
CPS, won't start
I have to agree with you, after testing the CPS = OK, I think it may be a bad wire or connector. I will test that wire tail tomorrow if nothing found I will replace it with an MB or Busch. By the way, after it sat for 4-5 hrs. it started, I let it idle and turn the A/C auto on to add the fan load and added engine ventilation this time it only idle for about 10 minutes and then cut off, No check engine light but a pending P0335 code I erase it and just a moment ago and 2hrs after it cut OFF, it started immediately. I turn it off and walk away until tomorrow.
#11
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Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Mid-Atlantic, USA
2005 W203 C320
CPS
I have to agree with you, after testing the CPS = OK, I think it may be a bad wire or connector. I will test that wire tail tomorrow if nothing found I will replace it with an MB or Busch. By the way, after it sat for 4-5 hrs. it started, I let it idle and turn the A/C auto on to add the fan load and added engine ventilation this time it only idle for about 10 minutes and then cut off, No check engine light but a pending P0335 code I erase it and just a moment ago and 2hrs after it cut OFF, it started immediately. I turn it off and walk away until tomorrow.
CODE p0335=
faulty CPS
CPS harness is open or shorted
CPS poor electric circuit connection
the signal plate may be damaged
the starter may be faulty
starter system circuit
dead or weak battery
I guess I'll be testing for a parasitic drain next. My car is a 2005 but read about issues with the seat modules mostly in 2001-2004, maybe I just ran out of borrowed time. I disconnected the negative wire and hope to be able to charge the battery to 100% overnight
Any advice is welcome, Thanks!
Last edited by Allrevup; 08-11-2017 at 01:50 AM.
#13
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Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Mid-Atlantic, USA
2005 W203 C320
MacVid, it appears as if you are the only person that reads my boring long winded (sorry about that) posts. LOL I guess there are so many on the W203 since 2001 and other similar MB car issues, it may no longer be interesting & most figure if you want an answer and have unlimited time, you can find it, "Fair Enough" but far from my reality and confidence level. IMHO it defeats the main purpose of open forums. In any case, I charged the battery to 100% and after shooting all systems off and closing doors, trunk etc,... waiting 30 minutes I had already removed the NEGATIVE cable to charge the battery overnight and using a small piece of wood against the dome light pin to hold it push IN on the pin on the door jam and turned the door latch to simulate it close. I allowed 45 min. for all systems to go to sleep, then with the ohmmeter still between the negative cable terminal and negative post found a 6 or 7 amp draw, way above the .01 - .05 amp. that is the norm for most modern cars. I check all the fuses under the hood and a few cause it to drop to as low as 3.6 amps. When I started with the fuses on the dash, a couple dropped the draw, I was tempted to just unplug the seat controller units but there are at least 4 or 5 plugs just under the driver seat, and I Am not sure what else or what any of them does. I noted the fuses that made a difference and it must have gotten blown away and have yet to work my way to the trunk panel other than the 6-7 amp original amp load I may be confused about the drops having read & watch so much about this problem in the past 3 days spare time and I got fed-up of messing with this PITA for today.
Last edited by Allrevup; 08-11-2017 at 01:52 AM.
#16
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From: Mid-Atlantic, USA
2005 W203 C320
On Sunday the car started fine several times and no more codes, but I have yet to find what ever is that is wrong with it and I don't trust it to drive. Monday-Tuesday, I charged the battery on its lowest setting, 2 amps overnight until it reached an indicated 100% charge and 12.8v. on the dial of my now older "Schumacher" charger, and 12.5v. with my My "Craftsman" voltmeter, 12.7v. with My brothers Professional "Fluke" voltmeter (?) then not trusting any of them, I removed the battery and the alternator and took them to a shop to have them bench tested. They fully tested the battery 2x and the alternator 5x, both checked out fine. I reinstalled them but did not connect the battery. Today I had other things to take care off and hopefully, I will see where I am tomorrow Thursday.
Last edited by Allrevup; 08-11-2017 at 01:54 AM.
#18
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From: Mid-Atlantic, USA
2005 W203 C320
#19
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Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 42
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From: Mid-Atlantic, USA
2005 W203 C320
"HELP" Follow up!
PS: I stop by AutoZone to get some service supplies for upcoming maintenance on my Mothers car, and the Manager ask me about my car saga and after I told him, He asked if I still had the Duralast CPS or the receipt? Wich I did have in my car, "he just gave me my money back" I had not even implied he should, That was very decent of him!
Last edited by Allrevup; 09-22-2017 at 09:27 PM.