W203 C220 CDI Limp Mode
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
W203 C220 CDI Elegence
W203 C220 CDI Limp Mode
Hi I'm new here and have been reading the threads with interest and have a similar problem which others have experienced so here it goes:
i have owned my c class since 2012 and remember when I first floored it it took off like a rocket! Quite a difference from the BMW I used to have, anyway ... the second time I tried to floor it it didn't have any power and would rev above 3000 rpm. I got home switched the car off, switched it back on and it was good as before (no limp mode). It has been like that (on and off) for the last 6 years which to be honest I've put up with until last year when I decided to change the MAF sensor.... made no difference. Changed the boost pressure sensor and it worked for a little while. Now the car is in a permanent limp mode (even when you switch it off and switch it back on). I called the AA and they carried out a code read and sent me the following report:
Patrol found the following fault code/s:System : Engine control - 73M / Diesel EDC 15C6P2213 - Unknown fault. Error Message : .P2509 - Unknown fault. Error Message : .P0105 - Boost pressure sensor. Error Message : Voltage too low.P2511 - Unknown fault. Error Message : .P1520 - Cruise control operating element. Error Message : Open circuit.P2228 - Unknown fault. Error Message : .P2210 - Unknown fault. Error Message : .engine management warning light on and loss of power. Member also reports black smoke coming from exhaust. checked fault codes to find ten faults present. checked turbo intercooler pipes all look ok no signs of splits. Checked wiring to turbo actuator, boost pressure sensor and egr valve All look ok. Suspect faulty egr valve but requires further investigation at garage."
i know now the garage is going to rip me off just for diagnosing but has anyone got any thoughts on what it could be? Is it the actual EGR valve that needs replacing or cleaning? Or is it the electrical communication with the EGR? I really don't want to buy another car yet as times are hard and this is the only thing that's ever gone wrong on this car
many thanks all
i have owned my c class since 2012 and remember when I first floored it it took off like a rocket! Quite a difference from the BMW I used to have, anyway ... the second time I tried to floor it it didn't have any power and would rev above 3000 rpm. I got home switched the car off, switched it back on and it was good as before (no limp mode). It has been like that (on and off) for the last 6 years which to be honest I've put up with until last year when I decided to change the MAF sensor.... made no difference. Changed the boost pressure sensor and it worked for a little while. Now the car is in a permanent limp mode (even when you switch it off and switch it back on). I called the AA and they carried out a code read and sent me the following report:
Patrol found the following fault code/s:System : Engine control - 73M / Diesel EDC 15C6P2213 - Unknown fault. Error Message : .P2509 - Unknown fault. Error Message : .P0105 - Boost pressure sensor. Error Message : Voltage too low.P2511 - Unknown fault. Error Message : .P1520 - Cruise control operating element. Error Message : Open circuit.P2228 - Unknown fault. Error Message : .P2210 - Unknown fault. Error Message : .engine management warning light on and loss of power. Member also reports black smoke coming from exhaust. checked fault codes to find ten faults present. checked turbo intercooler pipes all look ok no signs of splits. Checked wiring to turbo actuator, boost pressure sensor and egr valve All look ok. Suspect faulty egr valve but requires further investigation at garage."
i know now the garage is going to rip me off just for diagnosing but has anyone got any thoughts on what it could be? Is it the actual EGR valve that needs replacing or cleaning? Or is it the electrical communication with the EGR? I really don't want to buy another car yet as times are hard and this is the only thing that's ever gone wrong on this car
many thanks all
Junior Member
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 16
Likes: 1
From: Reading, UK
C220 CDI Coupe 2002
hint: Check all connection in the engine bay: "P1520 - Cruise control operating element. Error Message: Open circuit" suggest a loose, dirty connection or broken wire.
After clearing all error what errors come up again? Did you recently replace air and fuel filters too?
After clearing all error what errors come up again? Did you recently replace air and fuel filters too?
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2024
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
w203
Hi I'm new here and have been reading the threads with interest and have a similar problem which others have experienced so here it goes:
i have owned my c class since 2012 and remember when I first floored it it took off like a rocket! Quite a difference from the BMW I used to have, anyway ... the second time I tried to floor it it didn't have any power and would rev above 3000 rpm. I got home switched the car off, switched it back on and it was good as before (no limp mode). It has been like that (on and off) for the last 6 years which to be honest I've put up with until last year when I decided to change the MAF sensor.... made no difference. Changed the boost pressure sensor and it worked for a little while. Now the car is in a permanent limp mode (even when you switch it off and switch it back on). I called the AA and they carried out a code read and sent me the following report:
Patrol found the following fault code/s:System : Engine control - 73M / Diesel EDC 15C6P2213 - Unknown fault. Error Message : .P2509 - Unknown fault. Error Message : .P0105 - Boost pressure sensor. Error Message : Voltage too low.P2511 - Unknown fault. Error Message : .P1520 - Cruise control operating element. Error Message : Open circuit.P2228 - Unknown fault. Error Message : .P2210 - Unknown fault. Error Message : .engine management warning light on and loss of power. Member also reports black smoke coming from exhaust. checked fault codes to find ten faults present. checked turbo intercooler pipes all look ok no signs of splits. Checked wiring to turbo actuator, boost pressure sensor and egr valve All look ok. Suspect faulty egr valve but requires further investigation at garage."
i know now the garage is going to rip me off just for diagnosing but has anyone got any thoughts on what it could be? Is it the actual EGR valve that needs replacing or cleaning? Or is it the electrical communication with the EGR? I really don't want to buy another car yet as times are hard and this is the only thing that's ever gone wrong on this car
many thanks all
i have owned my c class since 2012 and remember when I first floored it it took off like a rocket! Quite a difference from the BMW I used to have, anyway ... the second time I tried to floor it it didn't have any power and would rev above 3000 rpm. I got home switched the car off, switched it back on and it was good as before (no limp mode). It has been like that (on and off) for the last 6 years which to be honest I've put up with until last year when I decided to change the MAF sensor.... made no difference. Changed the boost pressure sensor and it worked for a little while. Now the car is in a permanent limp mode (even when you switch it off and switch it back on). I called the AA and they carried out a code read and sent me the following report:
Patrol found the following fault code/s:System : Engine control - 73M / Diesel EDC 15C6P2213 - Unknown fault. Error Message : .P2509 - Unknown fault. Error Message : .P0105 - Boost pressure sensor. Error Message : Voltage too low.P2511 - Unknown fault. Error Message : .P1520 - Cruise control operating element. Error Message : Open circuit.P2228 - Unknown fault. Error Message : .P2210 - Unknown fault. Error Message : .engine management warning light on and loss of power. Member also reports black smoke coming from exhaust. checked fault codes to find ten faults present. checked turbo intercooler pipes all look ok no signs of splits. Checked wiring to turbo actuator, boost pressure sensor and egr valve All look ok. Suspect faulty egr valve but requires further investigation at garage."
i know now the garage is going to rip me off just for diagnosing but has anyone got any thoughts on what it could be? Is it the actual EGR valve that needs replacing or cleaning? Or is it the electrical communication with the EGR? I really don't want to buy another car yet as times are hard and this is the only thing that's ever gone wrong on this car
many thanks all
