Throttle body full of oil
05-04-2018, 10:58 AM
#1
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S320
Throttle body full of oil
Please i need help. Why the throttle body is full of oil
even the pipe that comes out from it is full of oil the car have lots of miles on
please check this video
thank you very much
05-04-2018, 09:24 PM
#2
Super Member
Oh well, since the original poster did go through the effort to take a picture, post it, take a video, and post it, he deserves some response.
Yes,despite the lazy post. Iirc, most modern languages use capitals at the start of a sentence, and a "period" at the end. ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capitalization ).
So my questions:
1) WHY do you care at all?
2) Does the car have any codes?
3) What scanner do you use.
4) How long have you had the car?
5) What is the MAKE AND MODEL AND YEAR of the car?
6) What is the ENGINE MODEL?
7) What country do you live in?
8) How much HP is the engine rated for?
9) Have you had any mechanics look at the car? If yes, then what did the mechanics say?
If my guesses are correct, the real value of that car is what ever the junk yard pays for scrap cars.
Sorry. :-(
However, I was not the person that screwed you, or lied to you, about the car.
Yes,despite the lazy post. Iirc, most modern languages use capitals at the start of a sentence, and a "period" at the end. ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capitalization ).
So my questions:
1) WHY do you care at all?
2) Does the car have any codes?
3) What scanner do you use.
4) How long have you had the car?
5) What is the MAKE AND MODEL AND YEAR of the car?
6) What is the ENGINE MODEL?
7) What country do you live in?
8) How much HP is the engine rated for?
9) Have you had any mechanics look at the car? If yes, then what did the mechanics say?
If my guesses are correct, the real value of that car is what ever the junk yard pays for scrap cars.
Sorry. :-(
However, I was not the person that screwed you, or lied to you, about the car.
05-04-2018, 09:48 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
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0 Posts
S320
Oh well, since the original poster did go through the effort to take a picture, post it, take a video, and post it, he deserves some response.
Yes,despite the lazy post. Iirc, most modern languages use capitals at the start of a sentence, and a "period" at the end. ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capitalization ).
So my questions:
1) WHY do you care at all?
2) Does the car have any codes?
3) What scanner do you use.
4) How long have you had the car?
5) What is the MAKE AND MODEL AND YEAR of the car?
6) What is the ENGINE MODEL?
7) What country do you live in?
8) How much HP is the engine rated for?
9) Have you had any mechanics look at the car? If yes, then what did the mechanics say?
If my guesses are correct, the real value of that car is what ever the junk yard pays for scrap cars.
Sorry. :-(
However, I was not the person that screwed you, or lied to you, about the car.
Yes,despite the lazy post. Iirc, most modern languages use capitals at the start of a sentence, and a "period" at the end. ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capitalization ).
So my questions:
1) WHY do you care at all?
2) Does the car have any codes?
3) What scanner do you use.
4) How long have you had the car?
5) What is the MAKE AND MODEL AND YEAR of the car?
6) What is the ENGINE MODEL?
7) What country do you live in?
8) How much HP is the engine rated for?
9) Have you had any mechanics look at the car? If yes, then what did the mechanics say?
If my guesses are correct, the real value of that car is what ever the junk yard pays for scrap cars.
Sorry. :-(
However, I was not the person that screwed you, or lied to you, about the car.
Thank your for your replay , and excuse my bad english and lazy post.
1) The engine is rough when idling. Like it has lack of air or fuel. But it’s good at high rpms. I think this is the problem. At least one of the problems.
2) It has a code regarding O2 sensor. I will check again after i fix the radiator problem ^_^.
3) cheap Obd scanner 😁
4) around 1 year now.
5) mercedes c230 kompressor 2003 sedan
6) not quite sure
7) Kuwait
8) i have no idea
9) Yes. But the problem is that he will charge me too much and the car is not worth that value. He didn’t say what was the problem. i wish that i can fix this problem with the help of an expert or some one who knows what is the causes of such thing. And i will track down the problem.
Your guess is not that wrong. I use the car to take me where i need to go and it’s doing it’s job. Once it’s absolutely broken i will just sell it to the scrap yard.
But, at this time i need to fix the issues if possible.
Thank you very much for your time.
05-04-2018, 10:47 PM
#4
Super Member
You may or may not like what I'm going to say about the likely problems. But, I don't "BS" or lie to people. I have better things to do. And, I assume the same is true for other people.
From the video, it looked like it might be an M271 engine. That's what I have. I know a LOT about that engine. Since, I feel in love with the looks of a W203 C230 Coupe, but I didn't want some "junk car or junk engine" that *I* could not fix within what *I* considered a "reasonable" cost. I've been working and rebuilding cars/engines for over 20 years. And, I have a few engineering degrees. My 2005 C230 is my "toy" - it's the second "toy" car that I have that I work on as a hobby/pleasure.
So....
That engine hasn't been well maintained. That's clear from the oil on the outside of the tube. My guess is that the oil also hasn't been changed as often as it should have been.
Since you do not have the American version of the M271 engine, that allowed that engine to go as long as it did in the shape that it's in. The American version is unique in that it has the most HP and the most boost from the supercharger. Yes, this is all relevant.
So...
My guesses:
1) The cam adjusters are leaking. That cause the oil on the outside of the hose.
The oil on the hoses and engine are not the big concern.
The big concern is that the oil can (and often does) drip down the wires and into the O2 sensors, the tranny, and so on. It may even drip into the engine computer.
MB has "cam adjuster harness extenders" that allow the oil to drip off the wire, and not down the wire.
Still, the cam adjuster are leaking oil. They are known to do that. They should be replaced.
2) The oil inside the hose is because the car has a supercharger. That's an issue with ALL engines that have a supercharger or a turbo.
Different manufactures and different engines try to reduce the oil by many different ways.
For the M271, there's a "self draining semi-catch can" in the top engine cover.
My guess is that from the lack of oil changes, that has gotten clogged and/or restricts how much oil drains back.
Even with a brand new M271 engine in perfect condition, after a few thousand miles, looking at the intake, it would be obvious (to people like me, and others) that the engine has a supercharger or turbo. But, I'm taking about a very very light coating of oil that likely would not be even visible by just looking at the inside of the intake.
So, again, having some oil inside the tube/intake/throttle-body is expected. But, you have a lot.
Even if the engine didn't have a "lot" of oil inside those items, what also happens is that the intake valves get oil "caked/baked" on to the valve seats. Again, this happens to ALL super-charger and turbo engines, to some extent.
It happens to be much worse on the American version because of the extra boost.
However, many non-American M271 engines, with the lower boost, seem to go 150K to 200K+ miles without any issue with the intake valves.
And... when the intake valve seats get too much build-up, then there is a loss of power in that cylinder or a miss-fire.
When the engine computer detects a miss-fire, it puts the engine into into "limp home" mode. That's to try to prevent additional damage to the engine.
My guess is that you have one or more miss-fire codes.
Or, it could be that the bad O2 sensor is enough to put the engine into "limp home" mode.
As far as I could tell, MB does not give a nice table of what errors will cause which responses - such as running rich, or going into limp-home mode.
Also, the M271 engine has some vacuum hoses that have a tendency to get a leak in them. The sit just above the super-charger. It's a hassle to get to them. The hoses are cheap.
The first thing to do is to replace the O2 sensor and see if that helps.
If you have a book/manual, I suggest also taking off the top engine cover and running kerosene through that self-draining oil catch can.
There's a good chance that you'd need a scanner that reads the MB codes and can display real-time data.
In America, there's a scanner for ~$150 that can do that. I don't know the cost in other countries.
However, there is a good chance that the intake valves have build-up and are causing miss-fires. The cheapest fix is to use ?SeaFoam" cleaner. Seafoam is a brand name.
The correct option is to have the head rebuilt, or get a new head. That's expensive!
Also, you should know that the timing chain is a known problem. It may last 75K miles, or 175K miles. There are many variables.
IF the timing chain breaks, then the engine is worthless.
So, the above is what I can advise about the engine.
Again, my guess is that the cost of the engine repair is much greater than the worth of the car.
You may get lucky and it might be just the O2 sensor.
Still, there are a number of other items that are know to often fail on an engine that old. Such as the belt idler pulley, the alternator voltage regulator, and so on.
Without a proper scanner, there really isn't much you can do other than to guess and hope by replacing parts.
Even with a proper scanner, there is often a lot of "guessing". However, it's a more informed guess.
It often takes an engine oscilloscope and a lot of special tools and adapters (costs in the thousands of dollars) to get a more precise engine problem diagnosis. That's often something that only dealers have, and the dealer's mechanics have the training, the knowledge, and the experience to do.
Good luck.
From the video, it looked like it might be an M271 engine. That's what I have. I know a LOT about that engine. Since, I feel in love with the looks of a W203 C230 Coupe, but I didn't want some "junk car or junk engine" that *I* could not fix within what *I* considered a "reasonable" cost. I've been working and rebuilding cars/engines for over 20 years. And, I have a few engineering degrees. My 2005 C230 is my "toy" - it's the second "toy" car that I have that I work on as a hobby/pleasure.
So....
That engine hasn't been well maintained. That's clear from the oil on the outside of the tube. My guess is that the oil also hasn't been changed as often as it should have been.
Since you do not have the American version of the M271 engine, that allowed that engine to go as long as it did in the shape that it's in. The American version is unique in that it has the most HP and the most boost from the supercharger. Yes, this is all relevant.
So...
My guesses:
1) The cam adjusters are leaking. That cause the oil on the outside of the hose.
The oil on the hoses and engine are not the big concern.
The big concern is that the oil can (and often does) drip down the wires and into the O2 sensors, the tranny, and so on. It may even drip into the engine computer.
MB has "cam adjuster harness extenders" that allow the oil to drip off the wire, and not down the wire.
Still, the cam adjuster are leaking oil. They are known to do that. They should be replaced.
2) The oil inside the hose is because the car has a supercharger. That's an issue with ALL engines that have a supercharger or a turbo.
Different manufactures and different engines try to reduce the oil by many different ways.
For the M271, there's a "self draining semi-catch can" in the top engine cover.
My guess is that from the lack of oil changes, that has gotten clogged and/or restricts how much oil drains back.
Even with a brand new M271 engine in perfect condition, after a few thousand miles, looking at the intake, it would be obvious (to people like me, and others) that the engine has a supercharger or turbo. But, I'm taking about a very very light coating of oil that likely would not be even visible by just looking at the inside of the intake.
So, again, having some oil inside the tube/intake/throttle-body is expected. But, you have a lot.
Even if the engine didn't have a "lot" of oil inside those items, what also happens is that the intake valves get oil "caked/baked" on to the valve seats. Again, this happens to ALL super-charger and turbo engines, to some extent.
It happens to be much worse on the American version because of the extra boost.
However, many non-American M271 engines, with the lower boost, seem to go 150K to 200K+ miles without any issue with the intake valves.
And... when the intake valve seats get too much build-up, then there is a loss of power in that cylinder or a miss-fire.
When the engine computer detects a miss-fire, it puts the engine into into "limp home" mode. That's to try to prevent additional damage to the engine.
My guess is that you have one or more miss-fire codes.
Or, it could be that the bad O2 sensor is enough to put the engine into "limp home" mode.
As far as I could tell, MB does not give a nice table of what errors will cause which responses - such as running rich, or going into limp-home mode.
Also, the M271 engine has some vacuum hoses that have a tendency to get a leak in them. The sit just above the super-charger. It's a hassle to get to them. The hoses are cheap.
The first thing to do is to replace the O2 sensor and see if that helps.
If you have a book/manual, I suggest also taking off the top engine cover and running kerosene through that self-draining oil catch can.
There's a good chance that you'd need a scanner that reads the MB codes and can display real-time data.
In America, there's a scanner for ~$150 that can do that. I don't know the cost in other countries.
However, there is a good chance that the intake valves have build-up and are causing miss-fires. The cheapest fix is to use ?SeaFoam" cleaner. Seafoam is a brand name.
The correct option is to have the head rebuilt, or get a new head. That's expensive!
Also, you should know that the timing chain is a known problem. It may last 75K miles, or 175K miles. There are many variables.
IF the timing chain breaks, then the engine is worthless.
So, the above is what I can advise about the engine.
Again, my guess is that the cost of the engine repair is much greater than the worth of the car.
You may get lucky and it might be just the O2 sensor.
Still, there are a number of other items that are know to often fail on an engine that old. Such as the belt idler pulley, the alternator voltage regulator, and so on.
Without a proper scanner, there really isn't much you can do other than to guess and hope by replacing parts.
Even with a proper scanner, there is often a lot of "guessing". However, it's a more informed guess.
It often takes an engine oscilloscope and a lot of special tools and adapters (costs in the thousands of dollars) to get a more precise engine problem diagnosis. That's often something that only dealers have, and the dealer's mechanics have the training, the knowledge, and the experience to do.
Good luck.
