C230 Sport Coup

HELP! My Catalyst OBD Readiness is not ready 5 months now, and one more month and Cali can tow my car for
expired registration, which btw is already paid. Just waiting to get the readiness indicator for the Cat ready!!
No errors, all other indicators are ready. Simply says Incomplete,
been driven thousands of miles and still...not ready.
02 Sensors are pretty recent, maybe 20-30K on them at the most and they are complete.

Anyone have any suggestion? Should I use some sort of simulator to get to pop over and then put it back to stock and head straight for the smog place?
I tried various drive cycles I found on the internet, so far..nothing.
Anyone have a drive cycle specific to this car?
Should I try Cataclean or some such muck?
I gotta get this done ASAP!!!!!
Clock is ticking.!!!

Really need your help on this one guys!

C230 Sport Coup

Mechanic told me to drive 60 miles per hour for 30 minutes stop the car turn off the engine take out the key wait 30 seconds and then turn around and go back. Well I did that and it didn't work.
Also before I got on the freeway I drove around in first gear on surface streets to get the cat real hot which he said I should do so anyway did all that didn't freaking work!

RedGray

I'm sure that you searched with Google.

Still, here is what I found:
Every manufacture has a different drive cycle. Even then, the drive cycle can change over years, and differ for different models.
Seem like some Dealers can put the car on a dyno, to do the needed drive cycle.
Seems like other people have also driven thousands of miles, and still didn't have tests ready.
Not much help, sorry.

Some links that may help.
https://www.smogtips.com/smog-questi...-K-Drive-Cycle

http://justsmogs.com/2016/06/mercede...ed-smog-check/

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Tsb/...dPdf?id=178092
Note, it didn't open/download with the right file extension.
So, change the downloaded file to someName.pdf


http://www.aa1car.com/library/obd_monitor_not_ready.htm

Good luck.

C230 Sport Coup

I think I tried most of those, but need to look more closely, and try try again.
Yes, a dyno thing would be great!
What about increasing the catalyst efficiency by adding something like
some isopropyl alcohol or Cataclean or some **** like that?
Or replacing the catalyst? Would that have an effect?
All others are passed. Just Catalyst refuses to run.

C230 Sport Coup

Hey what do we need to do to get the vehicle into the 'closed loop' that starts
the process?

tjts1

Do you have any trouble codes besides the readiness monitor? I would just take it to the refferee and ask for an exemption. Readiness monitor problems are pretty common and CARB is very lenient about granting exemptions.

RedGray

Imho, you definitively do not want to add anything to the gas tank.
The issue is that the tests aren't being run. Not that there is any failure.

As I posted above, "what cycle does the vehicle need to do to test xyz" varies a lot. :-(
That's why I suggested a dealer with a dyno, if you need to get the car smog tested and approved.

One of the nice things about the older printed GM Dealer Service manuals, is that the manuals specified how/when each test was run.
I had a bad connection to my knock sensor. It "seemed" like it would get the error at random times after I cleared the error. But, in fact, it would only do the test for knock sensor under very specific conditions. After I knew what those conditions were, I could see that the knock sensor got an error pretty much the first or second time that the ECM would be doing the test. The knock sensor was only a few years old and was an original GM. So, that helped to point me to a worn wire/bad-connector.

C230 Sport Coup

Is it possible to find someone who will run the drive cycle on a dyno, so it completes in short order?
I'm in Cali ya know. Such a PIA.
Used to be one indicator not set was ok. They changed it now,
only evap, everything else must be complete and passed.
Arseholes. I'll have to go to Oregon and register it there.
>> The issue is that the tests aren't being run. Not that there is any failure.<<
My mechanic keeps infering that incomplete is the same as failing in my case.
That something must be wrong.

I need like a super smog guy who can make it either fail, and tell me what needs to be replaced, or just gawdam complete.

C230 Sport Coup

For god sakes, I finally passed, new Cat and new recirculating air valve replaced under warranty, since
the old one was only 6 months old! Old cat had only 25k miles on it as well.
Should not have needed one but wtf, it's done.

mtnman82

Hoping (praying) I'm not in the same boat as you on this c230... I had the secondary air injection fault code and replaced all the vacuum tubing to get things up to snuff again. The code didn't clear after ~month and 2 tanks of gas so I cleared everything. That code cleared and the emissions tests are good except for CAT and HTR. It's been a month and another 2 tanks of gas but still no go. I went on ~hour highway drive yesterday hoping that would do it but no luck. Have you found a specific drive cycle for clearing the CAT and HTR tests (for a 2003)? It needs to be smogged again in March, trying to be proactive since these things seems to take so long...

nguyenvh2

ML500 Test drive for IIM Smog test in CA.

To whom might need this.

My car is 2005 Mercedes Benz ML500 Sport Edition. My car had a CAT not ready for CA smog test after clear all faults from the OBD tools. After running with 200 miles in city and freeway, my car still had the Catalytic not ready for CA smog test. Verified with OBD tool from the IMM status: CAT status is shown as a red X mark. I cannot continue the smog test at STAR station. After follow the instruction with steps 1 to 3, the CAT was shown as “OK” and I passed the smog test. Note: These steps can be applied for ML series (?).

Below is the instruction of my steps.

Note: I only followed steps 1 to 3 and got the CAT to be OK for smog test. Hope that it works for your car. Steps 1 to 7 are for full test cycles.

Important Note:· The drive cycle needs to be done two (2) consecutive times.
· Prior to driving your Mercedes Benz, read the drive cycle test instructions carefully and completely to ensure successful drive cycle success.
· Ensure your Mercedes has at least 1/4 to 3/4 tank of gas. An empty or full gas tank will not allow the EVAP monitor to run.
· Also begin the drive cycle from a cold start; best achieved by leaving your vehicle sitting overnight.
· The drive cycle will not run if the check engine light is on or illuminated.

Step 1. 02 Sensor Heater Diagnostics (do not interrupt this portion of the test). With the engine warm (greater than 80'C), and the transmission gearshift lever in Park position, proceed as follows:
· Start engine and increase engine speed to between 2,000 to 2,500 RPM for 2 minutes.
· After the 2 minutes, run engine at idle speed, with no applied load for 6 minutes (Air conditioning OFF, no throttle movements etc.).
· After this time period has been obtained proceed to step 2 below.
NOTE: If using a Hand-Held Scan Tool verify Step 1 test completion. This will be indicated by a check mark in the display field or the word PASS.

Step 2. Lambda (02) Sensor Signal (do not interrupt this portion of the test, to be conducted directly after step 1 above has been performed).
· With engine temp greater than 80"C, and with transmission gearshift lever in position D: Drive vehicle for 3 minutes at 43 mph (70kmlh).
· After the 3 minutes has been reached proceed to step 3 below.
NOTE: If using a Hand-Held Scan Tool verify Step 2 test completion.

Step 3. Catalytic Converter Efficiency Diagnostics (do not interrupt this portion of the test and must be conducted directly after step 2 above has been performed).
· With engine temp greater than 80'C: Drive vehicle with transmission still in position D for 3 minutes at 48-54 mph (80-90 kmlh).
NOTE: If using a Hand-Held Scan Tool verify Step 3 test completion.

Step 4. Self-adjustment of the air/fuel mixture (idle speed & self-adaptation) (do not interrupt this portion of the test and must be conducted directly after step 3 has been performed).
· With engine temp greater than 80'C, proceed as follows: Place transmission gearshift lever into Park position and allow engine to idle (with no load applied to the vehicle, i.e. Air conditioning OFF) for 3 minutes. NOTE: If using a Hand-Held Scan Tool verify Step 4 test completion.

Step 5. EGR System (Emission Vacuum Diagnostics): No DTC codes should store for the intake manifold pressure sensor and EGR pressure transducer during this portion of the test. With the engine temperature at 80<C:
· Start and Drive vehicle (in D position) and then accelerate smoothly up to 2000 rpm, and then decelerate smoothly back down to 1100 rpm.
NOTE: If using a Hand Held Scan Tool to verify test completion.Step 6 – Air Injection Diagnostic ((do not interrupt this portion of the test)

Step 6 – Air Injection Diagnostic ((do not interrupt this portion of the test)
NOTE: First: Place a suitable auxiliary fan in front of the vehicle to force engine cool down. (Engine cool down can also be simulated by using a decade box to simulate engine cool down).
· Continue test step: With engine temperature less than 40CC, the air conditioning OFF and the transmission gearshift lever in Park position; and auxiliary fan removed from front of vehicle,
· Start engine and accelerate engine speed to 1400 rpm.· Allow engine to run at this increased rpm until coolant temperature reaches between 70'C to 106°C.
· Allow engine to run with increased rpms for 7 minutes (or drive the vehicle for 7 minutes).
· After the 7-minute time period has been reached, stop the vehicle, place gearshift lever into Park position and allow engine to idle (with no load) for 6 seconds. Do not use AlC.
· After this step turn the ignition OFF, wait ten seconds and repeat this test step.Note that when testing the air injection system, the engine coolant temperature must be at the same temperature (degrees) as when before the ignition key was switched off in the prior test step.
NOTE: If using a Hand-Held Scan Tool to verify Step 6 test completion

Step7. Fuel System Leak test (EV AP): No

C230 Sport Coup

All I can say, is I started with all errors clear.
After only a short time it threw damn code!? I cleared all again, and continued on a
weekend trip down the coast. 2nd weekend Big Sur was open.
Still it (CAT) wasn't cleared when I got home, but was clear in the morning. Yeah!
Go figure. And yeah, all hoses need to good. Had that too at one point secondary air and it was hoses.

I think I listed this drive cycle posted by nguyenvh2 in another thread, but it didn't work.
In fact step 6 idling for so long actually threw some codes.
On our cars with supercharger pushing air at startup, just drive straight away from a cold
stat and it will clear,

mtnman82

Man o man... I was in a rush after work today and was hoping to get an alignment done on my truck. Turns out I need an appointment anywhere I called, so decided to run the c230 by a smog shop for a quick smog check. I completely forgot about this thread and posting about my incomplete emissions cycle. Car has been driving fine for the past 5+ months, no check engine lights. Being in a rush I made the mistake of not plugging in the scanner first. Boom! $45 out the door. No pass because my CAT cycle is still hasn't cleared. So very, very bummed.

Car hasn't been getting the mileage it had for the first 15 years of ownership and I've been wondering about that recirculating air valve. I might try replacing that first. Really hope I don't need a new CAT, which I assume means replacing the exhaust header … ?

Uuuughhh

C230 Sport Coup

Well you have 2 Cats.
How many O2 sensors are there?
Usually you can tell if the Cat is bad if it throws codes (like P0420) and also
using graph in function in Torque or other
diagnostic tool to see if the waves are identical before and after which means nothing is
happening in the cat ie bad.
So if you have O2 sensors before and after on each you can check that.
Otherwise, yeah, you might have to swap manifold.
I've done mine a number of times, as the gasket would leak
when I had header, but back to stock and not such an issue.It's a pain, but not
too bad. Get new nuts, they sort of lock in place, made out of copper on mine.
Are there aftermarket bits available for M271 ?
Reduced mpg over time usually means you need new O2 sensors.
When or if have they been replaced?

mtnman82

I have the 1.8 m271. 2x O2 sensors, one before and one after the CAT which is part of the exhaust header. I've been wondering if I have another further downstream. Work is only ~4 miles away form my house and I haven't driven the car out of town in the past 5 months. I'm going to try the drive cycle numerous times over the next few weeks to see if I can get it to clear. But I'm not holding my breath. $1100. for a header/CAT unit. Ugh. I did order the air valve and am going to install that FWIW. No codes but gas mileage is off ~1.5 mpg's. I might try testing back pressure at the upstream O2 sensor port to see if the CAT is possibly clogged. Sometimes I do smell gas which is a telltale sign of the CAT being clogged...

mtnman82

Yay! CAT test cleared. Ready for the test. Posting this for the posterity of the forum...

After letting the car sit for a couple days, I did this drive cycle:

1. Make Sure the Engine Light is Off

The first and foremost step is to check whether the engine light is off. If your vehicle has active trouble codes, it may stop a monitor from running completely.

2. Check if your Vehicle has a Coolant Temperature

The drive cycle starts with a cold start. The engine coolant temperature of your vehicle should be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the air temperature. You can achieve this by allowing your car to sit overnight.

3. Let the Engine be Idle for 2 Minutes

The next step is to start the engine and keep it idle for two and half minutes, keeping rear defroster and AC on.

4. Drive the vehicle at a Steady Speed of 55 MPH

Now, switch the rear defroster and ac off and keep the speed of your vehicle at 90 km/hr (55MPH) nearly for 3 minutes. During this period, the purge and Fuel monitor diagnostics will take place.

5. Decelerate your Vehicle’s Speed at 20 MPH

Make the speed of your vehicle fall gradually up to 32 km/hr (20 MPH). Avoid touching/shifting of clutch or brake.

6. Again Speed Up

Drive your vehicle back to 55MPH (90 km/hr) at 3/4 throttle for nearly five minutes. The catalyst monitor diagnostics will take place during this period. If the battery is detached or the catalyst is not ready, it might take five complete driving cycles to decide the status of the catalyst. For additional information about catalyst monitor, one can refer to maintenance tips by car experts.

7. Stop the Vehicle

Now, make your vehicle slow down and allow it to sit idle for 2 minutes.

8. After idling I turned off the car and took the key out of the ignition for a minute or so.


Then I did this drive cycle 2 times:

1) Vehicle warm up (obviously car was already warmed up)

2) A/C Off

3) Drive 3 minutes at 43 mph in D

4) Drive 3 minutes at 51 mph in D

5) Stop and let idle for 3 minutes in P

6) I turned the car off and took the key out of the ignition for a minute or so.


Then I did the first cycle again, just steps 4~7. And again turned the car off and took the key out of the ignition for a minute or so.

I was ~10 miles away from home at this point and didn't have my scanner with me. I started her up and drove home at ~65mph (speed limit), stopped to put 5 gallons of gas in the car thinking I might have to try the drive cycles again tomorrow. I was at 1/4 tank and only put 5 gallons in the tank - I read somewhere the emissions cycles only take place when there is between 1/4 and 3/4 tank. Then came home and checked with the scanner and all emission test cycles good to go and a green light.

I've read that it can take 5 drive cycles to complete the CAT test, which is why I went ahead and repeated these cycles while I was out driving around.

Edit: Additional notes. I had driven well over 1000 miles without the CAT cycle being run. They were all in-town miles - I live in a small town, no streets over 45mph speed limit. I have not replaced the air valve yet, but am planning to do so. I ordered a replacement and it came with a dented diaphragm so I am exchanging. Also, (knock on wood that this is not the case) I think I may still have an issue with the CAT. I have no check engine light, all looks good, but my gas mileage is still off and occasionally I get a whiff of gas - both of which are telltale signs of a clogged CAT.