My 2005 C230 dies when I remove the jumper cables
10-14-2018, 05:14 PM
#1
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2005 230 Kompressor Coupe, 1977 Suzuki PE 250, 1977 Suzuki RM250, 1987 Toyota Supra
My 2005 C230 dies when I remove the jumper cables
Hi Folks, I hope you can help me. I store my C230 for the summer and drive another car. I leave the battery in it so the place that stores the car can move it.
Last week they moved the car and everything seemed fine. Today it needed a boost and it started right up. But as soon as they removed the booster cables the car died. This happened a couple of times and every time the car started and the cables were removed the car immediately died. Any help would be appreciated, thanks Doug
Last week they moved the car and everything seemed fine. Today it needed a boost and it started right up. But as soon as they removed the booster cables the car died. This happened a couple of times and every time the car started and the cables were removed the car immediately died. Any help would be appreciated, thanks Doug
10-16-2018, 02:18 PM
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
Remove battery, attempt to charge. Go from there....Duh 
Measure voltage after charge. 12V ?
If it holds a charge get it tested before reinstall at any auto parts.
Bad? Replace it. Start engine. Is alternator working?
Big red sign on the dash will tell you if it's not charging.
Measure voltage after charge. 12V ?
If it holds a charge get it tested before reinstall at any auto parts.
Bad? Replace it. Start engine. Is alternator working?
Big red sign on the dash will tell you if it's not charging.
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; 10-16-2018 at 02:20 PM.
10-18-2018, 03:18 PM
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
There ought to be a sticky. "Using a multimeter, and things to check before posting. "
I have a bunch of multimeters I got for FREE from Harbor Fright with a coupon.
Otherwise only like $6 or something, perfectly adequate for reading voltages on a car and
continuity.
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...ter-63604.html
Still have my old fluke meter too that I paid like $150 for back in the 90's.
I have a bunch of multimeters I got for FREE from Harbor Fright with a coupon.
Otherwise only like $6 or something, perfectly adequate for reading voltages on a car and
continuity.
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...ter-63604.html
Still have my old fluke meter too that I paid like $150 for back in the 90's.
10-18-2018, 07:15 PM
#6
Super Member
You have a voltmeter built into your car
put cluster into mileage display setting, turn key to position 1. Press reset button 3 times.
dumb question: did the boosting cables get unusually hot?
if so the alternator is shorted causing a huge current drain.
if they did not get very hot, then mostlikely BOTH the alternator/regulator is defective AND the battery is no longer holding a charge. a very odd double fault at once.
so display the battery voltage:.
You can test this by using the built in voltmeter as the Youtube video shows.
Set to display voltage.
connect a battery charger... voltage should be near 14 volts. if it very low or if the charger goes in shutdown mode then the alternator is shorted causing a very low resistance between + and -
if it is around 14 volts let it charge for a while and remove charger.
Battery voltage should be up to 12 volts. Even a crappy battery will show some voltage above 10 v.
If the alternator was shorted all summer, it could also have completely killed the batter to the point that it needs replacing anyway.
Good luck!
put cluster into mileage display setting, turn key to position 1. Press reset button 3 times.
dumb question: did the boosting cables get unusually hot?
if so the alternator is shorted causing a huge current drain.
if they did not get very hot, then mostlikely BOTH the alternator/regulator is defective AND the battery is no longer holding a charge. a very odd double fault at once.
so display the battery voltage:.
You can test this by using the built in voltmeter as the Youtube video shows.
Set to display voltage.
connect a battery charger... voltage should be near 14 volts. if it very low or if the charger goes in shutdown mode then the alternator is shorted causing a very low resistance between + and -
if it is around 14 volts let it charge for a while and remove charger.
Battery voltage should be up to 12 volts. Even a crappy battery will show some voltage above 10 v.
If the alternator was shorted all summer, it could also have completely killed the batter to the point that it needs replacing anyway.
Good luck!
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10-21-2018, 01:12 PM
#8
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2005 230 Kompressor Coupe, 1977 Suzuki PE 250, 1977 Suzuki RM250, 1987 Toyota Supra
Thanks for your help guys. I bought a multimeter, learned how to use it and looks like I need an alternater.
Battery seems OK. At least it holds a full charge until I run the car, then it drops off quickly. Did not get the "big red sign" until I got the battery charged sufficiently.
Again thanks for the help. I was called out of town and missed a few days. Doug
Battery seems OK. At least it holds a full charge until I run the car, then it drops off quickly. Did not get the "big red sign" until I got the battery charged sufficiently.
Again thanks for the help. I was called out of town and missed a few days. Doug
Last edited by dougo01; 10-21-2018 at 01:20 PM.
