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My belt tensioner is doing the shimmy without the music....
My belt tensioner is rattling & shaking in the Drive and Reverse positions, Only when I press on the brakes and the car in a still position (not moving). The belt tensioner does not rattle when I drive or when the car is in the Neutral or Park positions.
I recently tightened and replaced new bolts to keep the belt tensioner fastened (to the engine) according to the proper torque specs, yet this rattling noise is still happening...
Anyone have any idea why this is happening??
Thank you in advance...
Last edited by HealthBar; Oct 27, 2019 at 08:33 PM.
Like any aftermarket part it's a risk you have to take. It either works or it doesn't. Do it right or do it twice.
Personally I would never buy any major car components on Amazon or eBay, but it's up to you. Looks like a decent aftermarket part from a reputable brand from a reputable supplier is only $70 US or so.
Except that Amazon is full of fake parts! I and others have bought sever Bosch and MBZ parts on Amazon that were fake. Spend your money wisely.
Weird, I've never bought any fake parts on Amazon. The reviews on Amazon have been quite useful even if I'm buying the item from somewhere else. Not only that but Amazon's no questions asked return policy is hard to beat.
(Off topic) Amazon Auto has turned into a wasteland of third party geegaws.
You used to be able to easily find OEM and OES parts for MBs. Now it’s a waste of time. I set up MyGarage and click “Filter Results” and still get a random assortment of parts for who knows what. If/when you find something that might fit; would you trust it? Not me.
Its a shame. Their prices on OES parts (original equipment supplier) used to be really good and next day free delivery was awesome.
I did not realize that the tensioner pulley was replaceable. I've only seen it sold as an entire assembly. And since it is making rattling noises, you should replace the whole thing anyhow as the spring and/or picot hinge are likely bad. Torque for the bolts holding the tensioner assembly to the timing case cover is 35Nm.
I Changed the entire assembly with an aftermarket part. The torque specs for the mounting bolts were at 25 nm, which is according to A YouTube video that I viewed. I then had to change the aftermarket pulley with one that I purchased from an auto store because the aftermarket one was too big. And the torque spec that I used on that was 9 nm.
I think that 35 NM might be too much… Your thoughts?
Oops - I looked at the WIS doc again. It's 35Nm only for the first install on a new timing case cover where the bolt holes are not pre-tapped. Once they are tapped, it's 25Nm.
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
Yup, time to replace the tensioner. Man is that a horrible noise.
Last one I ordered was INA from Rockauto and ended up being identical to the
Genuine one. I forget the brand, but it wasn't INA.
Those farging bolts are hard to install....yarrr.
Just a comment...FOr MBZ parts, I have rarely found Rock Auto to be the best source. They sell a lot of cheap Chinese-made aftermarket stuff. The good quality brands can almost always be foudn for less at places like AutohausAZ, RMEuropean, FCPEuro, europarts, Pelican, or for OE parts, one of the MBZ delaers that sells direct online, like MB of Naples, FL (https://www.mercedespartsdelivered.com).
is the INA brand Belt Tensioner assmebly that you purchased a good one??
I just purchased off amazon the URO Parts 1122000970 Belt Tensioner, and after only a few days after installation my cars shaking again. After superficial visual inspection it looks like it's the URO tensioner that's causing the issue....bummer. Now I have to return it and buy a new and better brand, and reinstall!
Please let me know if the INA belt tensioner is a good one?
WIS = Workstation Information System, which is MBZ's electronic shop manual system for all of its modern cars. Normally, you can only get it as a dealer, but there are 'copies" all over eBay for under US$30. Also, if you were to buy a Chinese clone SDS setup (SDS = Star Diagnosis System. the tool dealers use to diagnose and change coding on MBZ cars), it includes WIS and many other useful reference tools. You can get a turnkey C3 or C4 version of SDS from Chinese sellers for about $00. Less if you supply your own laptop.
Heres a huuuge problem. I recently had to replace the new URO belt-tensioner that I purchased about a week ago with a brand new OEM belt tensioner from RMeuropean because the URO broke. Well now, this OEM belt tensioner broke and I’m not sure why.
could it be that the serpentine belt is too tight or too small and therefore causing these belt tensioners to break???
please view enclosed video...
Your good assistance would be appreciated
Last edited by HealthBar; Nov 22, 2019 at 05:09 PM.
If it’s really tight you could have a short belt. I’ve seen different vendors sell belts of different lengths— some are a little short or long.
I also wonder if the routing is correct or if you’re damaging the tensioner while installing the belt. On the M271, you must be careful you have the wrench on the correct side of the belt or it’s nearly impossible to get the belt on.
What is your recommendation for the size of serpentine belt to use if I bypass the a/c compressor?
Im following the graph below and im routing the belt straight from #3 to #5, skipping #4, the a/c compressor pulley.
I don’t think im damaging the tesioner during installation. The belt size I installed is according to an MBZ bulletin (that I found on this mbworld website, directing mechanics how to fix the a/c compressor and to temporarily place a shorter belt by bypassing the a/c pulley...)
Btw video is not uploading from my phone. Have to do it from a desktop.
Last edited by HealthBar; Nov 25, 2019 at 02:47 AM.
Sorry, can’t help with the length of the bypass belt. I haven’t done that before. My experience is that the belt you get from various retailers may be slightly longer or shorter depending on who sells it. I ended going to several places to find one that was exactly the same as OEM (Napa Auto, Contitech, btw).
But if you have one, just make sure that the tensioner is actually tensioning, ie., not maxed out in either direction. If it, is get a belt from the parts store a little shorter or longer. The belts seem to be interchangeable, based on width, number of grooves and length.
5
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
I think it might have been Lemforder, who make the engine mounts too.
The INA was the exactly part from Mercedes.
But you can buy the mercedes one for like 100 bucks...so...
whatever works for you.
Having an OD crank pulley, (supercharged engine) they tend to go out more frequently, as they are extended to the tightest
extension.I'm on like my 4th one in the life of the vehicle.
Attached is the mercedes bulletin that I referred to in my previous post. I purchased the shorter belt in order to bypass the a/c pulley...so i'm not sure that the (shorter) serpentine-belt that I purchased caused the belt-tensioner to break or what?!
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
