2005 c230k won't start anymore help!
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
2005 c230k won't start anymore help!
Last night there were some signs of something bad going to happen. Was at a 7 eleven parked. Was going to turn the engine on, it fired up, as I run the gears to drive, the engine died in reverse. So I popped the transmission back to park and then restarted, and it worked.
Drove it around for several more times throughout the day, then all of a sudden, the car won't start anymore. I turn the key, can hear the fan work and some clicking noise coming from the fuse box and some noise near the right side of the engine. Imagine facing the engine and it's the right side, maybe 6 inches below, there is a clicking noise.
I looked up all over google and here, checked fuse 52. That didn't work. Put my multimeter at 20000 ohms and checked the fuse block, went to 0, so I'm assuming it works. Checked this on 57 as well, 0 reading on the multimeter. I couldn't find fuse 37. I think it was on the side of the driver's panel, I opened it, there was no fuse block on 37, so I don't know what to make of it. There was also someone on the internet somewhere that said their specific 2005 c230, all they did was unlpug the camshaft sensor and it started right up. Supposedly underneath the engine cover, around the 3rd spark plug from the bottom, there is a camshaft sensor there, I unplugged that, and still the same thing.
I also had the car towed the first time when it didn't work. I was stuck at a home depot parking lot. When it died, I could run the transmission through all gears, but when the tow guy came to tow it back to my house, now the transmission won't go through the gears anymore. It's stuck in park. What gives? Is this related to the car not starting? Looks like I will have to use that tool to manually unlock the transmission or something like that.
Some things to note, battery is brand new, maybe 2 months old. It was the more expensive one, the 200 dollar one from o'reilly. There was new alternator that was installed as well, so it can't be the battery. All lights work just fine.
Anyone have any ideas? Thanks.
Drove it around for several more times throughout the day, then all of a sudden, the car won't start anymore. I turn the key, can hear the fan work and some clicking noise coming from the fuse box and some noise near the right side of the engine. Imagine facing the engine and it's the right side, maybe 6 inches below, there is a clicking noise.
I looked up all over google and here, checked fuse 52. That didn't work. Put my multimeter at 20000 ohms and checked the fuse block, went to 0, so I'm assuming it works. Checked this on 57 as well, 0 reading on the multimeter. I couldn't find fuse 37. I think it was on the side of the driver's panel, I opened it, there was no fuse block on 37, so I don't know what to make of it. There was also someone on the internet somewhere that said their specific 2005 c230, all they did was unlpug the camshaft sensor and it started right up. Supposedly underneath the engine cover, around the 3rd spark plug from the bottom, there is a camshaft sensor there, I unplugged that, and still the same thing.
I also had the car towed the first time when it didn't work. I was stuck at a home depot parking lot. When it died, I could run the transmission through all gears, but when the tow guy came to tow it back to my house, now the transmission won't go through the gears anymore. It's stuck in park. What gives? Is this related to the car not starting? Looks like I will have to use that tool to manually unlock the transmission or something like that.
Some things to note, battery is brand new, maybe 2 months old. It was the more expensive one, the 200 dollar one from o'reilly. There was new alternator that was installed as well, so it can't be the battery. All lights work just fine.
Anyone have any ideas? Thanks.
Last edited by lacelane; 02-21-2021 at 02:56 AM.
#2
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2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
What's the battery voltage at the terminals? Just because the battery is new, doesn't mean it can't die. However I am inclined to think that your alternator may be dead which may lead to a low voltage situation. Below a certain voltage the starter will not crank. Some sort of safety feature.
Are you able to jump start the car? If so, that would eliminate a failed starter.
Do the lights flicker violently (more than normal) when trying to crank? If so, that would indicate a low voltage battery, whether caused by a bad battery or a bad alternator as mentioned above.
Are you able to jump start the car? If so, that would eliminate a failed starter.
Do the lights flicker violently (more than normal) when trying to crank? If so, that would indicate a low voltage battery, whether caused by a bad battery or a bad alternator as mentioned above.
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Nope the lights does not flash violently, looks like it has a lot of power. It's late now, so it's too cold and dark to test the battery with a multimeter. I'll do it later tomorrow hopefully if I have time. But...I had the battery and alternator replaced. Before I changed it, I can tell the battery was really bad. The car did start, I had to constantly jump it AND there was big red message on the dash saying that there was an alternator problem, so I replaced the alternator AND the battery. Not sure if the battery was the problem at the time, but I had it fixed. Back then, the battery and power was sooooo bad, that the transmission didn't even go past first gear. I had to drive the car locally in town all in 1st gear! by the time I got to the auto shop, I bought the battery and replaced it, then it finally went through all the gears normally. But the red screen told me the alternator was bad, so I had that changed. Never a problem like that again, so I am assuming that it's not battery just from that experience.
If it was a bad battery, the car can still start, but the gears won't change past 1st gear.
If it was a bad battery, the car can still start, but the gears won't change past 1st gear.
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Ok, I just checked my battery with the multimeter, it's fine. It read 12.47, maybe should've been at 12.6 around there if I didn't try to keep on trying to start it last night.