gregj1006

Hey all,

I have a 06 C230 with approximately 153,000 miles on it. Yesterday en route back to NC from Baltimore, transmission went into limp mode in VA still 300 or so miles from home. Got off highway, tried to do the reset; of course it didn't work. Drove remainder of trip on a bunch of back country roads. Nice scenic route but it took me like 10 hrs to get to Winston-Salem at speeds of 35-37 max, high rpms, more gas used and surely some pissed of people who were behind me until I moved aside or they passed me. Preliminary research indicates this is a somewhat common problem for these cars. it seems the connector in passenger foot well area under carpet is often the culprit.

That being said I'm hoping someone could tell me exactly where to locate it and access it to see if it could be the culprit, praying its just that. In addition using free obd scanner from advance i have these current codes

P0015
P0025
P2006
P2768

Would really appeciate any thoughts, guidance, and anyones personal experiences and knowledge concerning the above.

Thanks in advance. Please be safe and be well

JMercro

So P2006 is probably a stuck swirl flap/broken actuator due to a plastic part. p0015 and 25 sounds like either a cam shaft adjustment sensor/magnet or the unfortunately common balance shaft is maligned. The P001-2X fault codes gave me a big scare when I got them but I replaced my prefuse box (which was melted due to water damage causing resistance/heat on the wires) and they went away. This is probably an unlikely scenario which was caused by the car being involved in a flood which I foolishly found out after I bought it. Although I guess that was a blessing in disguise.. who knows? I'm not sure what P2768 is. Google says it's something with PCM. So how I figured out the pre-fuse box issue (it's where u put the positive jumper cable when jumping) my mechanic noticed the melted plastic and pointed a thermometer at it and said some of the cables were very hot. I grabbed one out of the junkyard and replaced it myself for 20 bucks.

I suggest checking the VIN to see if the car is within the affected range of the balance shaft issue. You can also check it like in this video as running the vin should not be where your diagnosis ends.
So check that and if it is fine, replace the 4 sensors on the front of the intake.

So the 3 parts there should be replaced on both banks. (The 2 circular ones and the one in between them.)
If your balance shaft is misaligned, then I guess just run it until it dies... Even fixing the issue will not save it because there are shavings of metal all throughout the power train.

If you have electrical issues, I think fixing those before buying parts is where you should start. The codes other than P2006 could all be related. I'm not sure what to do about P2006. I have P2004. I guess replacing the whole intake with the plastic parts swapped out for metal is currently what I know as the most reliable fix. I don't want to do this though.. So I'm just leaving them stuck open for now. I'm not sure how to deal with the flaps through out the inside of the intake, supposedly they are plastic as well, which can break off and fly into the engine. This seems to happen in 2 ways, if it is ran hard while they are stuck closed and also when the owner just replaces the exterior plastic pieces and forces the internal flaps through a build up of gunk which was accumulated when they were not moving.