Cold weather... ROUGH start
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Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Boston
2005 C230 SS
Cold weather... ROUGH start
I've had my car for about a month now, and it's been garaged up until this weekend when I was visiting a friend and had to park outside. The temperature the first night dropped down to the low 30s (upstate NY). The next morning I went to start the car as usual and when I turned the key the car seemed to engage, but then all of a sudden it started choking and puttering and shuttering for a good few seconds before fully starting.
The next day the same thing happened, this time it was in the 40s.
Has anyone experienced this before? Is it perfectly normal for a brand new car to have such a rough start on cold days? Could it just be a case of a bad tank of gas? Does it make any difference how long I hold the key in the start position while firing up the car?
I just filled my tank so tomorrow evening when I start it up I guess I'll see if it's the gas.
The next day the same thing happened, this time it was in the 40s.
Has anyone experienced this before? Is it perfectly normal for a brand new car to have such a rough start on cold days? Could it just be a case of a bad tank of gas? Does it make any difference how long I hold the key in the start position while firing up the car?
I just filled my tank so tomorrow evening when I start it up I guess I'll see if it's the gas.
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From: da rock
c240
i have a 2001 c240 and now thats its colder it starts up a bit rough. i dont pay much mind to it since every car i've had before has done the same. my guess is that since there is not so much oil in the cylinders, when the pistons travels up the cylinder its a bit rough. thats what i think but i may be wrong.
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From: Diamond Bar, CA
W206 PHEV AMG
mine did that when i was in SF for couple days over the summer, the temp dropped to 30-40's. Someone mentioned it was the auto choke feature to protect the engine or something. Forgot who mentioned it, but I had posted a thread about this topic before.
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From: Ashburn, VA
'19 GLC 300, '19 TM3SR+
I once had a severe case of misfiring, about 2 months into car ownership. It happened in the morning and wouldn't go away until I shut the car down and restarted it. The dealer replaced one of the coils - they must have seen the fault codes thrown, although there were no messages on the MFD.
As a side note, morning start problems may also be related to carbon deposits that may build up if you shut the engine down before it warms up enough (such as if you start the car, move it to clear the driveway for a family member and shut it down still cold). This is known as a "lawnmower syndrome". To avoid this, let the engine run for a while, or better yet - drive around the block.
New owners generally tend to underrev the engine, trying to baby the car too much, which also causes carbon deposit buildup. To get rid of those, it is enough to take RPM to 4500-5000 several times a day, which usually is not a problem under normal driving conditions, especially with a stick. If you feel that yours is not the case, try this: switch to a lower gear and drive at ~5000 RPM for 5 minutes. This is called "Italian tune-up". Should be done on a warm engine. There exist TSBs prescribing exactly that (haven't seen one for MB, though).
As a side note, morning start problems may also be related to carbon deposits that may build up if you shut the engine down before it warms up enough (such as if you start the car, move it to clear the driveway for a family member and shut it down still cold). This is known as a "lawnmower syndrome". To avoid this, let the engine run for a while, or better yet - drive around the block.
New owners generally tend to underrev the engine, trying to baby the car too much, which also causes carbon deposit buildup. To get rid of those, it is enough to take RPM to 4500-5000 several times a day, which usually is not a problem under normal driving conditions, especially with a stick. If you feel that yours is not the case, try this: switch to a lower gear and drive at ~5000 RPM for 5 minutes. This is called "Italian tune-up". Should be done on a warm engine. There exist TSBs prescribing exactly that (haven't seen one for MB, though).
Last edited by vadim; Nov 10, 2004 at 04:48 AM.
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From: Stamford, CT
2003 C230
I noticed something similar but not at startup
With the temps falling to the low 30s. I was driving on the highway cruising in 6th gear at around 2000rpm. I needed to speed up a little so I gave it a bit more gas and I heard the S/C sucking air into the engine like it should. Unfortunately, at the same time I felt the shake accompanied by a droning sound ( like a washing machine in the spin cycle ) and some things around the car started rattling ( I guess the vibration hit their harmonic frequency ).
Once the RPM went over 2500 or so the vibrations went away. I tried this a few more time and made it happen every time. I tried it in 5th and it happened there too. I tried it in 4th and it did happen but a lot more subdued. Did not happen in 3rd or lower. This jappened to me long time ago and I explained it to the dealer and they said it was normal for the S/C to do this. I did not quite understand it but I have never driven any other S/C cars, only turbos. Anyone have an idea what this may be?
Thanks
CZ
p.s. It's not detonation(pinging)...
Once the RPM went over 2500 or so the vibrations went away. I tried this a few more time and made it happen every time. I tried it in 5th and it happened there too. I tried it in 4th and it did happen but a lot more subdued. Did not happen in 3rd or lower. This jappened to me long time ago and I explained it to the dealer and they said it was normal for the S/C to do this. I did not quite understand it but I have never driven any other S/C cars, only turbos. Anyone have an idea what this may be?
Thanks
CZ
p.s. It's not detonation(pinging)...
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From: Ashburn, VA
'19 GLC 300, '19 TM3SR+
Originally Posted by czachari
With the temps falling to the low 30s. I was driving on the highway cruising in 6th gear at around 2000rpm. I needed to speed up a little so I gave it a bit more gas and I heard the S/C sucking air into the engine like it should. Unfortunately, at the same time I felt the shake accompanied by a droning sound ( like a washing machine in the spin cycle ) and some things around the car started rattling ( I guess the vibration hit their harmonic frequency ).
Once the RPM went over 2500 or so the vibrations went away. I tried this a few more time and made it happen every time. I tried it in 5th and it happened there too. I tried it in 4th and it did happen but a lot more subdued. Did not happen in 3rd or lower. This jappened to me long time ago and I explained it to the dealer and they said it was normal for the S/C to do this. I did not quite understand it but I have never driven any other S/C cars, only turbos. Anyone have an idea what this may be?
Thanks
CZ
p.s. It's not detonation(pinging)...
Once the RPM went over 2500 or so the vibrations went away. I tried this a few more time and made it happen every time. I tried it in 5th and it happened there too. I tried it in 4th and it did happen but a lot more subdued. Did not happen in 3rd or lower. This jappened to me long time ago and I explained it to the dealer and they said it was normal for the S/C to do this. I did not quite understand it but I have never driven any other S/C cars, only turbos. Anyone have an idea what this may be?
Thanks
CZ
p.s. It's not detonation(pinging)...
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From: Stamford, CT
2003 C230
Vadim, I agree 100% that 2000 RPM is low and I should have had detonation
and/or timing retardation 
What I don't get is that the engine actually pulled fine as if it was at 3000 rpm or higher. It just did it in a very uncivilized ( and very worrisome ) manner. I didn't think that a Mercedes Engine should sound and vibrate like a freaking washer on spin cycle.
I wonder if anyone else has experienced this.
Thanks
CZ
p.s. The 18x8 Konig Theory wheels are the same weight as the stock 17x7 C7 wheels.
What I don't get is that the engine actually pulled fine as if it was at 3000 rpm or higher. It just did it in a very uncivilized ( and very worrisome ) manner. I didn't think that a Mercedes Engine should sound and vibrate like a freaking washer on spin cycle.
I wonder if anyone else has experienced this.
Thanks
CZ
p.s. The 18x8 Konig Theory wheels are the same weight as the stock 17x7 C7 wheels.
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From: San Diego, Ca
2003 Citron Green C230KMT
i had my car parked in the garage and hadnt started it in 4 days, because i car pooled to work with my brother. the avg. temp lately has been high 60's, maybe low 70's i think. anyhow when i did start my car yesterday to go to school, it was high 50's temp at 7am, and my car was very rough when ideling.
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From: Kamakura, Japan
2002 C180 Wagon
Re: Cold weather... ROUGH start
Glad to know that my car is not the only car which demonstrates this problem. I had this rough idling three times over the past two months, and one was recognized by the computer as a misfire. The dealer checked the engine and test drove the car; however, no problem was found.
I have been recently following someone's post that leaving the key on the on position for a few seconds before igniting the engine avoids this problem, and it seems to work (though my dealer says that unless the engine is ignited nothing moves mechanically).
I would be very much interested in hearing sensible explanations and solutions to this matter.
I have been recently following someone's post that leaving the key on the on position for a few seconds before igniting the engine avoids this problem, and it seems to work (though my dealer says that unless the engine is ignited nothing moves mechanically).
I would be very much interested in hearing sensible explanations and solutions to this matter.
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From: Ashburn, VA
'19 GLC 300, '19 TM3SR+
Originally Posted by czachari
p.s. The 18x8 Konig Theory wheels are the same weight as the stock 17x7 C7 wheels.
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From: Ashburn, VA
'19 GLC 300, '19 TM3SR+
Originally Posted by mtokfmak
...though my dealer says that unless the engine is ignited nothing moves mechanically... :
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Boston
2005 C230 SS
ok, so i started my car the next day, after getting a new tank of fuel from a different gas station, and no problems starting the engine (outside temp. was the same as the previous day...40). so, the choking on start must be due to a bad tank of gas. and i got it from a "reputable" gas station... mobil... ghetto-looking one though. watch out for those.
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F10 M5
The rough start can happen because of a defective oil filter. There is a valve in your oil filter which prevents all of the oil from dropping down in the oil pan. This is so that when you start the car cold, there will be some oil in the upper part of your engine.
Sometimes, the valve would fail and would let the oil drop all the way down. When you start the car, the oil pump needs time to pump the oil to the top of your engine (sometimes 20-30 seconds), during which time your engine may run extremely rough.
This has happened to me a couple of times. It is no big deal, as long as you change your oil filter when you see it for the first time.
Sometimes, the valve would fail and would let the oil drop all the way down. When you start the car, the oil pump needs time to pump the oil to the top of your engine (sometimes 20-30 seconds), during which time your engine may run extremely rough.
This has happened to me a couple of times. It is no big deal, as long as you change your oil filter when you see it for the first time.
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Well, not sure if this helps but I will type it any way. I was reading the manual and it states that you should pick (W) on older models or (C) on newer ones so the car can start in second gear for cold weather. That's for automatics though.
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From: Ashburn, VA
'19 GLC 300, '19 TM3SR+
Originally Posted by 05Css
Well, not sure if this helps but I will type it any way. I was reading the manual and it states that you should pick (W) on older models or (C) on newer ones so the car can start in second gear for cold weather. That's for automatics though.
