I am a beefy beefy mon, I am a stud.

This kit is unreal. Some time ago I posted a formula for unsprung wieght, and per pound, what save and what it translates to in WHP. I forget the formula now, and I am not looking for because, I am not, but this is unreal.

This kit claims to save over 1lbs. per wheel for BMW. I picked up the bag with the alloy lug nuts and couldn't belief it. The bag, with 20 lug nuts, and 7mm allen key is unrealistically light. I dug out a C7 wheel bolt. I swear, this feels like the entire bag with the lugs is lighter then a single C7 bolt. The whole thing, bolts included, is easily half the wieght of the small box I have my C7 bolts in.

Anyway, for $120 bucks shipped, I am astonished. PICS! Evosport also sells a stud kit, identical to the 12x1.5 wheel bolts that Turner Motorsports sells for BMWs.

 

How will you know how far the studs should go in in the rear hubs? If driven too far, they would mess the parking brakes, no?

 

No! It's very easy. These would never go in too far. That's part of the benefit. If you have show, street and winter wheels, you end up with 3 sets of 20 bolts. With these, you need rounded seated lugs for OEM wheels, and conical seated nuts for aftermarket wheels.

As far as checking bolt length;
1. Jack up the rear by the diff and place jack stands under the rear jack points. Then remove the left rear wheel (where the parking brake is).
2. There are two (2) 17mm bolts on the back of your brake caliper. Remove them, and place the brake caliper on something (bucket, toolbox, etc.) do not just let the brake caliper dangle.
3. Remove the rotor screw (torx), and remove the rotor.
4. Start bolt or threaded lug into the hub, place your finger behind the hub, and thread the bolt in until you can feel it.
5. Use a caliper (the tool) to measure the amount of thread (on bolts) to the ball or conical seat. Write down the number.

To determine if a new wheel bolt will hit, replace the rotor, rotor screw and caliper, and place the wheel up and allign the bolt holes. Then use the "stick" end of the caliper (the tool) to measure inside the bolt hole to the stike point. The strike point is the lever arm on the left rear wheel hub. You will find it at the 6:30 position with the wheel mounted. You can even use the caliper (the tool) to determine if a bolt would strike the lever. As you can extend it into the bolt hole, and measure the length to the strike point. If your bolt is longer than that. You will have the problems so many of us others have.

Another way would be to use the caliper (the tool) to measure the hub, rotor hat, and wheel center thicknesses. You're wheel bolt should not be more than 5-6mm than that total. hub+rotor+wheel center seat=bolt length.

From what I understand, you would want the lug nut to make at least 6.5 rotation on the stud to be considered secure. Use Red Loctite on the hub end of the stud. Rotote until seated. If you take a look at the stud pictures on Rogue, you'll see there is an area on the bolt without thread. You can't go too far into wheel hub really. Repeat 20 times, mount your wheels, and torque the lug nuts to 85 ft. lbs.

NOTES:
Maintenance;
Stud kits require maintenance. Check the torque daily on newly installed kits, and frequently (2 weeks - 1 month) on afterwards. Just a precaution (you should do the same with bolts).

The Tool;
Vernier Caliper. http://www.physics.smu.edu/~scalise/apparatus/caliper/ See "stick end" to the right. It is adjusted the same as the arms, and is read near the arms.

 

Thanks, Tom! Nice write-up.

Suggestion here:

I found the best way to secure a caliper is to use a short bungee cord with metal hooks on both ends (Sold in kits of assorted sizes in auto parts stores). Use it to hang the caliper on the spring.

 

Thanks!

Good idea on the bungee. Sometimes, I don't have the springs in

 

Wow that's lookin' wicked sweet.

So... how much hp

 

Thanks! It's was 174.8HP/188.5TQ @ the wheels with just the lwt kleemann flywheel. I am dyno'ing this weekend with the Kleemann K23 pulley and Eisenmann cat-back so I will post that soon. There are a lot of things happening. I mean a lot of little things.

On the table are headers, warpspeed metal cat, magnoflow muffler and 2.5" piping from the collector back.

Head work, port matching and exude hone, shaving the deck to the NTE value in the service manual. I am waiting on confirmation that I can have smaller value guides made and use lighter valves and new springs. If I opt to run in Street Modified or Prepared classes, I will also be running Schrick cams.

Speedybenz is building me (are you ready?), adjustable camber/caster plates, 2.5 i.d. spring adapters, adjustable sway endlinks, a rear strut tower bar, a front strut tower bar, and a harness bar... LOL KW Suspension V2's shipped today and I want to get the H&R front sway bar. I am also getting the 17x8.5, 15lbs., SSR Competition wheels

I am buying the intake system that Damon (kw203) had built a couple years back for track use. I plan to modify this a little to make it complete. I am seeking out a new intercooler. Along with this, I have a hardened plastic SC nose cone coupler to install still.

I have to look into if I need to add baffles to the oil pan to prevent oil starvation under cornering, and I want to bore the motor out to the NTE values. Again, if I go into SM or P classes, I can bore to 2.5/2.6?, balance the crank, get lighter connecting rods and larger pistions to increase compression. Speedy and I also discussed offset grinding the journals on the crank and using Honda crank bearing.


Some people have mentioned a fear of combustion, but basically we'll need to see. I have a message into Potomac for a M111 to play with I am at the least getting the head and immediately sending it out for some flow benching and modifications. I have no idea what any of these mods will add up to, but it'll be nice either way. But I am in no way going to reach speedwerx HP numbers, but I have other suspension and chassis mods to compensate.

Sorry for another long post. There are some recent pics here.


EDIT: Can you believe the amount views to reply's ratio of this thread. I must just leave everyone speachless

Here's the pics I based the sig on...

 

Isn't SSR going out of business?

WHOSE HOOKING YOU UP WITH THOSE PHAT HEADERS!

 

Maybe Supersprint... you get ten commits on the M111s yet?

 

Nice sig Nuk!

 

Dude, you are the only one so far, BUT I should be getting more information about those headers.

Even if you want supersprint, I'll organize a group buy on those as well!

 

Thanks!

 

Haha- LOL!

I wish I could do it myself, but A. I am not in "the LB" , and B. that's a big premium, and I have a big wish list, a wedding, and a new house to pay for, it'd just be too much!

 

Left me speechless, that's for sure...


so will this lightweight 20 lug kit, fit regular 5x112mm fitments ?
I've got staggered Type 209 AMG 17" wheels on my Coupe.
Could use any unsprung weight advantage, even if it is only 1lb per wheel.

thanks for the post... couldn't even imagine to do 1/32nd of the stuff you do to your Coupé

 

hehe, you're making me blush! :v I just need to pull it all off now that I know what I want to do, that it can be done and where to get it done. Suspension first, intake and exhaust, then internals. Only exception being the port matching and exude hone on the head and the oil pan baffles if needed.

Bolt pattern doesn't matter. These simply screw into the wheel hub. The size maters as Steve pointed out. The newer big cars from MB use a 14x1.5 (same as Audi kits, puremotorsport.com has them)sized bolt. The C class and others use the 12x1.5, same as BMW.

The only problem you would have is that these kits come with a conical shaped lug nut seat. The MB OEM wheels use a rounded seat. So, you would need to either A. get aftermarket wheels (most all use a conical seat) or B. Find rounded seat lugs to use.

You can contact Evosport to see if they have rounded lugs. They carry the same stud kits as the ones on the Turner Motorsport studs.

 

thanks !
I'll check with Evosport !

Carlos

Saprissa@aol.com