Radar detector wiring
02-09-2008, 08:49 PM
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'08 C300 Lux Barolo Red Beige Leather P2 MM 18" wheels '84 944
Radar detector wiring
I need to run my Valentine 1 power cable behind the forward end of the overhead light console in order to fish it down the left A-post but cannot figure out out to get the lamp lenses out without damage. It has to be possible, given that the bulbs will eventually have to be replaced.
Anybody done this yet?
Anybody done this yet?
02-09-2008, 09:58 PM
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'08 C300 Lux Barolo Red Beige Leather P2 MM 18" wheels '84 944
Wire run
<<whats wrong with tucking the wire behind the headliner and running it down a pillar?>>
That's the plan. The detector will be mounted on the windshield to the right of the light console and the problem is running the cable behind or through the console to the left a-pillar and then down to the left wire chase. Which is the only place switched 12V is readily accessible. The light console has no visible fasteners and I'm not going to start prying on something fragile.
I may have to get the dealer mechanic to print out the page showing how to do it. He gave me the grille removal instructions this week so I know I can ask him for this new page.
That's the plan. The detector will be mounted on the windshield to the right of the light console and the problem is running the cable behind or through the console to the left a-pillar and then down to the left wire chase. Which is the only place switched 12V is readily accessible. The light console has no visible fasteners and I'm not going to start prying on something fragile.
I may have to get the dealer mechanic to print out the page showing how to do it. He gave me the grille removal instructions this week so I know I can ask him for this new page.
02-09-2008, 10:17 PM
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2011 E350 Sport 4matic
<<whats wrong with tucking the wire behind the headliner and running it down a pillar?>>
That's the plan. The detector will be mounted on the windshield to the right of the light console and the problem is running the cable behind or through the console to the left a-pillar and then down to the left wire chase. Which is the only place switched 12V is readily accessible. The light console has no visible fasteners and I'm not going to start prying on something fragile.
I may have to get the dealer mechanic to print out the page showing how to do it. He gave me the grille removal instructions this week so I know I can ask him for this new page.
That's the plan. The detector will be mounted on the windshield to the right of the light console and the problem is running the cable behind or through the console to the left a-pillar and then down to the left wire chase. Which is the only place switched 12V is readily accessible. The light console has no visible fasteners and I'm not going to start prying on something fragile.
I may have to get the dealer mechanic to print out the page showing how to do it. He gave me the grille removal instructions this week so I know I can ask him for this new page.
02-09-2008, 10:25 PM
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2008 C350 & other fine MB products
I need to run my Valentine 1 power cable behind the forward end of the overhead light console in order to fish it down the left A-post but cannot figure out out to get the lamp lenses out without damage. It has to be possible, given that the bulbs will eventually have to be replaced.
Anybody done this yet?
Anybody done this yet?
Maybe this helps - maybe is does not.
John, (otherwise known as UHEAR)
Cool, it's always good to get a referral. As for your car, the valentine one system is set up as follows:
- We custom mount the valentine one display into your FACTORY rearview mirror, you will NOT lose any of the functions of the mirror(auto dim, map lights, garage door opener, etc.)
- We then take the valentine unit apart and relocate certain parts into varios points in the vehicle for maximum sensitivity.
- We give you the on/off volume control knob on your overhead panel
- We also stealth mount Blinder laser jammers into the front fascia of your vehicle for TOTAL laser coverage.
- This takes about 2 business days to install.
Parts and labor installed: 2650.00
As for the back up camera:
As long as you have the factory navigation the camera is stealth mounted into your trunk lid for a VERY low profile look. As soon as you put the vehicle into reverse the camera will kick in and soon as you take it out of the reverse gear your screen will go back to whatever you had on it prior(radio, navi, phone etc.)
Takes about 3/4 of a day to install.
Parts and labor installed: 1075.00
Both can be done in 2 full days without rushing the vehicle. Please let us know when you would like to schedule your vehicle.
Attached is a side photo of the laser jammers on a 2008 S63 & the back up cam image from a 2004 S55.
Robert & Raymond
Technicar
4421 Annette St
Unit 11
West Palm Beach, Fl 33409
561.615.4002 Office
561.615.4088 Fax
Last edited by uhear; 02-09-2008 at 10:33 PM.
02-09-2008, 11:23 PM
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'08 C300 Lux Barolo Red Beige Leather P2 MM 18" wheels '84 944
<<How about using the power outlet in the glove box. That way you do not need to cross the light console>>
Because the power outlet is always hot. I want switched 12V, under control of the key.
Because the power outlet is always hot. I want switched 12V, under control of the key.
02-09-2008, 11:28 PM
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'08 C300 Lux Barolo Red Beige Leather P2 MM 18" wheels '84 944
Valentine mods
<<Maybe this helps - maybe is does not.>>
It doesn't.
<<you will NOT lose any of the functions of the mirror>>
Aside from the Valentine AND mirror warranties. Also, the 6000 mile round trip to your shop does not appeal too much.
It doesn't.
<<you will NOT lose any of the functions of the mirror>>
Aside from the Valentine AND mirror warranties. Also, the 6000 mile round trip to your shop does not appeal too much.
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02-09-2008, 11:30 PM
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2011 E350 Sport 4matic
Our C-300 Sport is still three weeks from delivery. But I read on a different forum that the glove box outlet is indeed switched power. Can you test and verify, please?
02-09-2008, 11:47 PM
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'08 C300 Lux Barolo Red Beige Leather P2 MM 18" wheels '84 944
Switched
<<Our C-300 Sport is still three weeks from delivery. But I read on a different forum that the glove box outlet is indeed switched power. Can you test and verify, please?>>
My memory has returned from wherever it has been.
The power outlet IS switched but the wire serving it goes straight up into a harness which goes to the underhood fuse panel and cannot be reached without removing the glove box entirely. By removing the right side end panel (of the dash) the wire can be seen with a flashlight but cannot be pulled out far enough to make a connection. Believe me, I tried.
My memory has returned from wherever it has been.
The power outlet IS switched but the wire serving it goes straight up into a harness which goes to the underhood fuse panel and cannot be reached without removing the glove box entirely. By removing the right side end panel (of the dash) the wire can be seen with a flashlight but cannot be pulled out far enough to make a connection. Believe me, I tried.
02-09-2008, 11:55 PM
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2011 E350 Sport 4matic
<<Our C-300 Sport is still three weeks from delivery. But I read on a different forum that the glove box outlet is indeed switched power. Can you test and verify, please?>>
My memory has returned from wherever it has been.
The power outlet IS switched but the wire serving it goes straight up into a harness which goes to the underhood fuse panel and cannot be reached without removing the glove box entirely. By removing the right side end panel (of the dash) the wire can be seen with a flashlight but cannot be pulled out far enough to make a connection. Believe me, I tried.
My memory has returned from wherever it has been.
The power outlet IS switched but the wire serving it goes straight up into a harness which goes to the underhood fuse panel and cannot be reached without removing the glove box entirely. By removing the right side end panel (of the dash) the wire can be seen with a flashlight but cannot be pulled out far enough to make a connection. Believe me, I tried.
02-11-2008, 04:28 PM
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'08 C300 Lux Barolo Red Beige Leather P2 MM 18" wheels '84 944
V1 location
<<why dont u mount it to the left of it...then you wont have to bypass it...and where are u tapping thats a switched source?>>
Because I don't want it in front of my face where it will interfere with the sun visor. I will be connecting to switched 12V in the left wire chase under the left side of the carpet near the A-post. I now have the wire IDs.
Fedex just this AM delivered my updated V1 from Valentine so when I determine how to fish the cable through the upper light console, I will get to it.
Because I don't want it in front of my face where it will interfere with the sun visor. I will be connecting to switched 12V in the left wire chase under the left side of the carpet near the A-post. I now have the wire IDs.
Fedex just this AM delivered my updated V1 from Valentine so when I determine how to fish the cable through the upper light console, I will get to it.
02-11-2008, 04:54 PM
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<<why dont u mount it to the left of it...then you wont have to bypass it...and where are u tapping thats a switched source?>>
Because I don't want it in front of my face where it will interfere with the sun visor. I will be connecting to switched 12V in the left wire chase under the left side of the carpet near the A-post. I now have the wire IDs.
Fedex just this AM delivered my updated V1 from Valentine so when I determine how to fish the cable through the upper light console, I will get to it.
Because I don't want it in front of my face where it will interfere with the sun visor. I will be connecting to switched 12V in the left wire chase under the left side of the carpet near the A-post. I now have the wire IDs.
Fedex just this AM delivered my updated V1 from Valentine so when I determine how to fish the cable through the upper light console, I will get to it.
02-11-2008, 10:21 PM
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1991 560SEL, 1981 300SD, 1983 300SD, 2008 C350
<<whats wrong with tucking the wire behind the headliner and running it down a pillar?>>
That's the plan. The detector will be mounted on the windshield to the right of the light console and the problem is running the cable behind or through the console to the left a-pillar and then down to the left wire chase. Which is the only place switched 12V is readily accessible. The light console has no visible fasteners and I'm not going to start prying on something fragile.
I may have to get the dealer mechanic to print out the page showing how to do it. He gave me the grille removal instructions this week so I know I can ask him for this new page.
That's the plan. The detector will be mounted on the windshield to the right of the light console and the problem is running the cable behind or through the console to the left a-pillar and then down to the left wire chase. Which is the only place switched 12V is readily accessible. The light console has no visible fasteners and I'm not going to start prying on something fragile.
I may have to get the dealer mechanic to print out the page showing how to do it. He gave me the grille removal instructions this week so I know I can ask him for this new page.
02-13-2008, 11:27 PM
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haha yeah when i flip down my visor, it blocks the valentine one from seeing out the rear...but i never have to use my visor cuz i got a 6" strip of limo tint on the windshield as well as sunglasses in the car
02-14-2008, 11:14 AM
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2011 E350 Sport 4matic
Last edited by ColoradoDriver; 02-14-2008 at 11:15 AM. Reason: typo
02-17-2008, 12:28 AM
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'08 C300 Lux Barolo Red Beige Leather P2 MM 18" wheels '84 944
Valentine 1 hidden wiring completed
I have completed the installation of my V1, concealing all of the wiring. It is mounted to the right of the overhead light console.
My first plan to locate switched 12V in the right side underfloor wiring raceway was a non-starter because I did not have a color coded wiring diagram identifying which wire to connect to. Same story with the left side raceway.
So, I decided to run the wiring to the underhood fuse box which turned out to be very easy.
Although the leading edge of the headliner is easy to pull down far enough to hide the wire above it, crossing through the light console required opening it up. Turns out it's very easy.
Before doing so, unclip the mirror base covering (see photo) by popping it down on each side.
Then, take a credit card and insert it between the headliner and the edge of the console which will release a catch enabling it to drop down. See photo. Pulling the detector's cable through the console can be done by taking a straight stiff piece of wire (home electrical wire is ideal) and carefully pushing it into the right front corner of the box and when it emerges you can tape the detector cable to it and pull it carefully into the box. Work the cable across the forward end of the box so as not to interfere with the console when you pop it back up into place. Since the cable is flexible, push the same piece of wire out through the left rear corner of the box after re-taping the cable to it and then pull the cable through. Untape the stiff wire and conceal the cable above the driver's side of the windshield.
The A-Pillar cover must be removed but before doing so, the door welting must be pulled away from the door opening on the forward side. It's a press fit so no problem with reinstalling later. Pull the A-pillar cover away, starting at the top. It is held in place with two spring steel clips. Be careful, because the plastic mounting points for the clips can be broken.
At this point, the end panel on the dash should be popped off. It pivots at it's front edge so start at the pointed end opposite. Route the cable down the a-pillar, behind the curtain bag (see photo) and secure it with plastic ties so that it cannot find it's way over the bag later. Route the cable into the area just behind the opening in the dash end.
You will need a length of wire about 24-30" long to run to the fuse panel. I used red wire, about 18 gauge (sliding it into a length of black vinyl tubing for protection) and I installed a small male spade type connector on it's end. If you pull a fuse out, you will see the size required so that it can be plugged into an unused fuse position. I used fuse position 34 as the photo shows. To run the wire into the fuse box, I used another length of stiff insulated house type wire. Looking into the fusebox after removing the lid, you will observe a hole which opens into the back of the dash.The hole is closed off with flexible plastic foam. Take a long screwdriver and depress the top of the foam down far enough to push the stiff wire through. You should see the wire when you look through the access hole (flashlight required) in the end of the dash. Pull it out through the hole (don't pull it out of the fuse box or you will have to start over) and then tape the wire with the connector on it to the stiff wire and pull it through to the dash-end hole. Do not plug the wire into the fuse position yet.
After cutting the power wire to the desired length, install a female spade connector on it which the V1 power adapter's red wire will plug into. The black ground wire can be mounted under the screw holding the end of the dash to the metal frame at the lower left of the area covered by the dash's end cover.
Coil up the excess wire and fasten it and the V-1's power cable connector with plastic ties to the vertical bar across the opening, being careful to keep the fuse carrier accessible. See photo.
Now wasn't that easy?
My first plan to locate switched 12V in the right side underfloor wiring raceway was a non-starter because I did not have a color coded wiring diagram identifying which wire to connect to. Same story with the left side raceway.
So, I decided to run the wiring to the underhood fuse box which turned out to be very easy.
Although the leading edge of the headliner is easy to pull down far enough to hide the wire above it, crossing through the light console required opening it up. Turns out it's very easy.
Before doing so, unclip the mirror base covering (see photo) by popping it down on each side.
Then, take a credit card and insert it between the headliner and the edge of the console which will release a catch enabling it to drop down. See photo. Pulling the detector's cable through the console can be done by taking a straight stiff piece of wire (home electrical wire is ideal) and carefully pushing it into the right front corner of the box and when it emerges you can tape the detector cable to it and pull it carefully into the box. Work the cable across the forward end of the box so as not to interfere with the console when you pop it back up into place. Since the cable is flexible, push the same piece of wire out through the left rear corner of the box after re-taping the cable to it and then pull the cable through. Untape the stiff wire and conceal the cable above the driver's side of the windshield.
The A-Pillar cover must be removed but before doing so, the door welting must be pulled away from the door opening on the forward side. It's a press fit so no problem with reinstalling later. Pull the A-pillar cover away, starting at the top. It is held in place with two spring steel clips. Be careful, because the plastic mounting points for the clips can be broken.
At this point, the end panel on the dash should be popped off. It pivots at it's front edge so start at the pointed end opposite. Route the cable down the a-pillar, behind the curtain bag (see photo) and secure it with plastic ties so that it cannot find it's way over the bag later. Route the cable into the area just behind the opening in the dash end.
You will need a length of wire about 24-30" long to run to the fuse panel. I used red wire, about 18 gauge (sliding it into a length of black vinyl tubing for protection) and I installed a small male spade type connector on it's end. If you pull a fuse out, you will see the size required so that it can be plugged into an unused fuse position. I used fuse position 34 as the photo shows. To run the wire into the fuse box, I used another length of stiff insulated house type wire. Looking into the fusebox after removing the lid, you will observe a hole which opens into the back of the dash.The hole is closed off with flexible plastic foam. Take a long screwdriver and depress the top of the foam down far enough to push the stiff wire through. You should see the wire when you look through the access hole (flashlight required) in the end of the dash. Pull it out through the hole (don't pull it out of the fuse box or you will have to start over) and then tape the wire with the connector on it to the stiff wire and pull it through to the dash-end hole. Do not plug the wire into the fuse position yet.
After cutting the power wire to the desired length, install a female spade connector on it which the V1 power adapter's red wire will plug into. The black ground wire can be mounted under the screw holding the end of the dash to the metal frame at the lower left of the area covered by the dash's end cover.
Coil up the excess wire and fasten it and the V-1's power cable connector with plastic ties to the vertical bar across the opening, being careful to keep the fuse carrier accessible. See photo.
Now wasn't that easy?
02-21-2008, 04:59 PM
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'08 C300 Lux Barolo Red Beige Leather P2 MM 18" wheels '84 944
Bump
<<
I have completed the installation of my V1, concealing all of the wiring. It is mounted to the right of the overhead light console.
My first plan to locate switched 12V in the right side underfloor wiring raceway was a non-starter because I did not have a color coded wiring diagram identifying which wire to connect to. Same story with the left side raceway.
So, I decided to run the wiring to the underhood fuse box which turned out to be very easy.
Although the leading edge of the headliner is easy to pull down far enough to hide the wire above it, crossing through the light console required opening it up. Turns out it's very easy.
Before doing so, unclip the mirror base covering (see photo) by popping it down on each side.
Then, take a credit card and insert it between the headliner and the edge of the console which will release a catch enabling it to drop down. See photo. Pulling the detector's cable through the console can be done by taking a straight stiff piece of wire (home electrical wire is ideal) and carefully pushing it into the right front corner of the box and when it emerges you can tape the detector cable to it and pull it carefully into the box. Work the cable across the forward end of the box so as not to interfere with the console when you pop it back up into place. Since the cable is flexible, push the same piece of wire out through the left rear corner of the box after re-taping the cable to it and then pull the cable through. Untape the stiff wire and conceal the cable above the driver's side of the windshield.
The A-Pillar cover must be removed but before doing so, the door welting must be pulled away from the door opening on the forward side. It's a press fit so no problem with reinstalling later. Pull the A-pillar cover away, starting at the top. It is held in place with two spring steel clips. Be careful, because the plastic mounting points for the clips can be broken.
At this point, the end panel on the dash should be popped off. It pivots at it's front edge so start at the pointed end opposite. Route the cable down the a-pillar, behind the curtain bag (see photo) and secure it with plastic ties so that it cannot find it's way over the bag later. Route the cable into the area just behind the opening in the dash end.
You will need a length of wire about 24-30" long to run to the fuse panel. I used red wire, about 18 gauge (sliding it into a length of black vinyl tubing for protection) and I installed a small male spade type connector on it's end. If you pull a fuse out, you will see the size required so that it can be plugged into an unused fuse position. I used fuse position 34 as the photo shows. To run the wire into the fuse box, I used another length of stiff insulated house type wire. Looking into the fusebox after removing the lid, you will observe a hole which opens into the back of the dash.The hole is closed off with flexible plastic foam. Take a long screwdriver and depress the top of the foam down far enough to push the stiff wire through. You should see the wire when you look through the access hole (flashlight required) in the end of the dash. Pull it out through the hole (don't pull it out of the fuse box or you will have to start over) and then tape the wire with the connector on it to the stiff wire and pull it through to the dash-end hole. Do not plug the wire into the fuse position yet.
After cutting the power wire to the desired length, install a female spade connector on it which the V1 power adapter's red wire will plug into. The black ground wire can be mounted under the screw holding the end of the dash to the metal frame at the lower left of the area covered by the dash's end cover.
Coil up the excess wire and fasten it and the V-1's power cable connector with plastic ties to the vertical bar across the opening, being careful to keep the fuse carrier accessible. See photo.
Now wasn't that easy?
My first plan to locate switched 12V in the right side underfloor wiring raceway was a non-starter because I did not have a color coded wiring diagram identifying which wire to connect to. Same story with the left side raceway.
So, I decided to run the wiring to the underhood fuse box which turned out to be very easy.
Although the leading edge of the headliner is easy to pull down far enough to hide the wire above it, crossing through the light console required opening it up. Turns out it's very easy.
Before doing so, unclip the mirror base covering (see photo) by popping it down on each side.
Then, take a credit card and insert it between the headliner and the edge of the console which will release a catch enabling it to drop down. See photo. Pulling the detector's cable through the console can be done by taking a straight stiff piece of wire (home electrical wire is ideal) and carefully pushing it into the right front corner of the box and when it emerges you can tape the detector cable to it and pull it carefully into the box. Work the cable across the forward end of the box so as not to interfere with the console when you pop it back up into place. Since the cable is flexible, push the same piece of wire out through the left rear corner of the box after re-taping the cable to it and then pull the cable through. Untape the stiff wire and conceal the cable above the driver's side of the windshield.
The A-Pillar cover must be removed but before doing so, the door welting must be pulled away from the door opening on the forward side. It's a press fit so no problem with reinstalling later. Pull the A-pillar cover away, starting at the top. It is held in place with two spring steel clips. Be careful, because the plastic mounting points for the clips can be broken.
At this point, the end panel on the dash should be popped off. It pivots at it's front edge so start at the pointed end opposite. Route the cable down the a-pillar, behind the curtain bag (see photo) and secure it with plastic ties so that it cannot find it's way over the bag later. Route the cable into the area just behind the opening in the dash end.
You will need a length of wire about 24-30" long to run to the fuse panel. I used red wire, about 18 gauge (sliding it into a length of black vinyl tubing for protection) and I installed a small male spade type connector on it's end. If you pull a fuse out, you will see the size required so that it can be plugged into an unused fuse position. I used fuse position 34 as the photo shows. To run the wire into the fuse box, I used another length of stiff insulated house type wire. Looking into the fusebox after removing the lid, you will observe a hole which opens into the back of the dash.The hole is closed off with flexible plastic foam. Take a long screwdriver and depress the top of the foam down far enough to push the stiff wire through. You should see the wire when you look through the access hole (flashlight required) in the end of the dash. Pull it out through the hole (don't pull it out of the fuse box or you will have to start over) and then tape the wire with the connector on it to the stiff wire and pull it through to the dash-end hole. Do not plug the wire into the fuse position yet.
After cutting the power wire to the desired length, install a female spade connector on it which the V1 power adapter's red wire will plug into. The black ground wire can be mounted under the screw holding the end of the dash to the metal frame at the lower left of the area covered by the dash's end cover.
Coil up the excess wire and fasten it and the V-1's power cable connector with plastic ties to the vertical bar across the opening, being careful to keep the fuse carrier accessible. See photo.
Now wasn't that easy?
02-21-2008, 05:03 PM
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2011 E350 Sport 4matic
Still awaiting our new C300. Appreciate your info, but will try to do it using the glove box power plug. Will let you know if that works. If it does not, then will follow your lead.
