Originally Posted by vic viper

On the rear, remove the one inner bolt only, do not remove anything on the outer spindle.

Originally Posted by C200k W204

As promised, I have done my installation on the lowering springs. I chose Eibach prokit because I had nothing but good from my previous cars with prokit.

It can be done easily if you have access to a lift and some tools to go with. If done at home, it can be a lot of work, but its doable.

Tools needed: Lift(real + for cutting time), Impact gun, torx sockets(set), metric sockets(set), extensions, star sockets(don't know the name of it), flat head screw driver, needle nose, allen key small enough to fit in one piece(see below), wretchet, spring compressor etc Access to a shop should take care of all the tools you need.

If you have no knowledge on how to work on a car, it can be difficult, yet it still is doable. Do this at your own risk, suspension is something that you don't want to mess up on any car.

Directions (Rear then front)

1. Take off all wheels after its on jackstands or on a lift.


2. After you have done the step above, you will see the following (bolt for the rear lower arm, bolt that holds shock, bolt that holds stabilizer link)


I first tried to remove all bolts thats connected here in this picture

I found it easier to remove the biggest bolt out of these four, which is the located at inner most towards the center of the car. When removing, use a jack to support the arm. when done, slowly lower the jack and you will get easy access to remove the spring itself.

the far left bolt is easier to work with, do not remove other bolts like I did at first. As the spring doesn't seat well when tried to put it back into its place.
After you remove the stock spring, you will see a rubber boot where the top of the spring gets seated. Remove it with thin flathead screw driver, lube it, then seat it on top of your new spring. Lower part of the spring gets seated also, so make sure they line up as they are suppose to.
3. Do same on both sides. One thing to remember is make sure the springs seat well on their spot. Top must align which is done easily with the rubber piece when seated already on the spring before it goes back on.

4.Fronts, I found it easier to do fronts than the rear, since I started off wrong with one side by removing more bolts than I should've.


5. Three bolts needs to be removed, as well as one nut that holds the stabilizer link. Also there is plastic piece that slides into the shock assembly which needs to be taken out.

this is the biggest one, i believe 21mm and torx I forgot which size.

Above is the picture of the plastic piece that slides onto the shock body(rounded) I think i have a clearer picture.

That plastic round piece in the middle of the picture is the above mentioned plastic. It holds brake lines and some wiring.

6. The two smaller bolts are bolted below the shock body also torx bolt

You see whre they get mounted. Right above the two empty holes, you can again see the round plastic that goes into the shock body. Also there is a ziptie that's holding the plastic piece, cut it to get it free.

I found it easier to remove the stabilizer link first. you need T40 star shaped one and 18mm wrench.

impact gun did not let the nut free since those joints are ball joint.

7. Remove the top three bolts in engine bay

After you have done that, hold the shock assembly, and with one hand, use a flat head screw driver to push in the black plastic pieces on each side.





8. Now that you have the shock assembly free from the car, do the other side, this saves time changing out the springs at the same time, no need to come back to removing assembly on the other side.

9.To get access to the nut on top of the shock, you need to remove the plastic cover. slide a thin anything metal which is hard enough, into the holes on the side of the plastic cover



10. Compress the spring with spring compressor, which I believe can be rented at local auto part store, ie. advanced auto parts etc



11. Reinstall the new spring, align it on the bottom, and make sure top rubber is facing the right way. Which is factory marked with white lines. Top metal spins free, so don't worry about its location at this moment. Tighten the nut tight with impact gun. Remember to put the plastic cap back on.

12. Reinstalling the shock assembly. First I hand tighten the three bolts on top. Then I installed the plastic round piece to the shock body


use new ziptie to replace the factory ziptie which was cut earlier. Pull it with enough force, should slide right out.

13.Reinstall the stabilizer link, hand tighten for now.
(tip, use a wrench and the star socket thing and use them both to tighten them)

14.Reinstall the biggest bolt, hand tighten

15.Reinstall the smaller two bolts

16. tighten them all with whatever tool you have, make sure they are tight.

17. Put wheels back on and you are good to go for a test drive. If you hear anything abnormal, turn back and double check everything.



eye candy anyone? there were more exotic cars there but DB9 was one car that I haven't seen in person.


Doesn't seem low on the picture above, but when I got home, it seemed a bit lower than the above. I believe they will settle in within a week or two.

Get alignment done after the springs settle in

Thanks for reading this long procedure on how to change out springs. If any question, PM me or post here. Thanks