[QUOTE=stealtheo;3633533]Few things to keep in mind:
Drain Plug -
If you choose to drain from bottom on MB cars do NOT reuse the drain plug and washer. Purchase new. The bolt is an "a" bolt it actually stretches a little when installed. Usually will develop small leak if reused. Better off replacing. only a few $

Those little non reuseable drain plugs for the diff on our C63 were only $25 a pop, one for fill, one for drain. Total BS about not reusing them. Suggest reusing them with a little sealer on the threads, just like what was on the threads prior to removal! Afterall, were aren't putting a 100 ft.lb. torque on em reinstalled.:y

[QUOTE=lomita;3642031]
Not sure what u are referring to. I was talking about the drain plug on the oil pan for those who choose to drain from the bottom. Screw and washer are a few dollars for both. "A" bolts stretch when installed. In most cases if you reuse the drain plug you will get a small drip afterwards. even more likely if you use it more than once. The sealer you mention is lock-tight to keep the screw from working its way loose. Has nothing to do with sealing anything.

i did my first oil change using the 8+ liter Mityvac from amazon. using the smallest tubing provided i was able to extract 6.2 liters (which is like 6.3 quarts about im estimating).

this falls short like 2-3 quarts of oil?

do i need a smaller tube to extract more from the dipstick or is this all i will get? i pumped until all i got was air and slight gurgle.

i replaced with the same amount of oil and changed the filter. i am having trouble judging level using dipstick.

any advice?

thanks

greek guy,

It really sounds like you didn't push the tube in far enough. Once you start getting air in the mityvac, you have to be sure that you've got enough suction by pumping the handle some more.

The other possibility is that you were low on oil to start with. That dip stick is hard to read. Maybe somebody can suggest a better way to read it.

Also, when you were removing the oil, did you remove the oil filler cap and the oil filter?

Dont use tubes in the dipstick pipe its almost impossible to extract all the oil using them, the best way is to construct an adapter to fit the nozzle of the oil extractor air tight to the inlet of the dipstick pipe, this way all the oil is sucked through the pipe and there is no risk of leaving any behind.

You suggest going over the tube, and not down with a smaller tube? For sure, you'll need alot more suction to extract the oil that way, and none of these consumer model extractors are going to cut it.

hellasmania219, make sure you warm up the car first. And don't forget to account for the oil in the filter assembly. And as others have said, check the oil just before you do the change, if you are down a quart for example, that's a quart less you are going to take out.

I had same issue with our 4matic, posted about it, and was essentially told by the wise ones I did not know what I was doing ... They did not appreciate the difference between the dealer suction method, and the typical DIY version, especially as it relates to the 4-matic.

If you have a 4matic, there seems to be a kink in the dipstick tube near the bottom. Whether it was the 6mm or 7mm extraction tube, I could only insert the Mityvac tube about .7" deeper than the dipstick. When I tested it with flex cable (similar to dip stick), I could stick the bare cable about 1.8" deeper than the dipstick. This indicated a restriction near the bottom of the dipstick tube on our 4-matic.

Since the dealer sucks the oil with a top fitting adaptor, it quickly gets all the oil from the W204 4-matics, and most other MB's.

It would be great if someone made and sold a 90 degree adaptor that uses an o-ring seal at the top of the tube (like MB tool) and connects to the largest mytyvac tubing. This would allow full draining of 4matics (at least mine). And by using the oem dip tube as the suction line, it would allow all c300's to be sucked out much quicker and more thoroughly ... and more consistently at the bottom vs using an insert tube method.

I asked an MB tech who is the sibling of a co-worker of mine about the 4MATIC drain, describing this scenario of the front driveshaft splitting the pan, and not being able to insert a tube - they didn't say it was an issue.

I'll ask again if they do a tube insertion method, or suck from the outside of the dipstick tube. But I still say that to do an over the tube method, you need higher suction then most DIY units provide.

Also, I don't see that hellasmania219 has a 4MATIC, at least its not listed in their post.

Correction - I see hellasmania219 does have a 4MATIC, so there may be an issue here, I will check with my MB tech contact.

What could the shape of the obstruction be if your flex cable can make the bend, but the tube cannot? The tube can make a simple bend, but I can't see that the flex cable is going to adapt to some complex curve, unless you really ram it in there.

i have a 2009 c300 4-matic

i checked the level before and after, they seem to match but i get different readings with almost every dip...haha

i used the mityvac smallest tubing and shoved it as far as i could using what some may call excessive force.

the engine had been warmed up...

i will ask my dealer when i take in my ML this week, but i really dont know why i couldnt extract all the oil

1) The MB tech would not know about problems inserting a tube to the bottom of the sump, they suck from the top of the dip stick tube, using a MB tool. The tool fits into the top of the dipstick tube, where the bore is about 5/8". The tool uses o-rings, just like the top of the dipdtick.

2) (edited) The MB suction method uses the full bore of the dipstick tube to extract oil. Both size mytyvac tubes fit in initially. The larger one's OD closely matched the diptube's 8.7mm bore, and had about a 6.6mm bore. Any hand pump device will pull oil out more easily using the full dipsticktube bore, based on less pressure drop needed to obtain the same flow rate.

I initially asked a MB tech and SM if there was a 4matic issue with oil changes, and they said none. That's because they use a tool that sucks from the top, and they due not stick a plastic tube in the dipstick-tube.

Based on the hard false stop, I suspect a slight king from a bending machine. No complex curve.

The insert tubing OD (6 or 7 mm) is just slightly smaller than the dipstick tube bore, and it would not take much of a flaw to stop the inserted plastic tube. The 3/32" aircraft cable I used is much smaller in dia, and very flexible.

I was able to extract all 8 quarts plus with my simple hand pump extractor and I can't imagine why a 4matic would have any type of different dipstick tube then any other C300-350, isn't the only difference, the final drive?

At least 2 of us just got 6 quarts out of a 4matic, using a inserted suction tube. I used same tool to fully exract all the oil from and an Audi A4 and a Mazda6, both of which I also drained by old drain plug method.

I suspect the issue is a slight curve of the dipstick tube, needed to clear the transverse tube in the oilpan that houses the fwd intermediate shaft.:nix:

You may be right. It doesn't seem like that would be keeping you from inserting the tube all the way to the bottom of the pan but, :nix:

Getting a tube adpater to fit over the dipstick tube is certainly possible, Home Depot sells plenty of tubes and adapters and such. You believe that your typical MityVac, or even the electric marine unit I bought, has the suction power to drain using this method?

I'll try it next time, but that won't be for another 5 months.

yup. the dip tube has a flare at the top end that would impede an "over" fitting hose. I think 3/8" fuel hose with a brass barb pressed in may seal at the ID of the tube top, based on a little check I did.

The pump kit you have should work fine, but may be rate limited by the diaphram displacement rating ... don't expect a much higher flow rate, as the mytyvac will see.

Something like that sounds like it should work - slide a hose over the diptube end and use some kind of clamp to seal it, then attach the suction line to that.

I had the MityVac for my 1st change, then returned it. At least for the diptube method, this marine unit worked pretty well.

Issues with MityVac?

-----------------------------------

This W203 thread has good links to MB approved oils:

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ments-usa.html

Anal Oil Change ....

I've been known to go over the edge. To help get any sludge off the pan bottom, I heat about 1/2 bottle of oil (double boiler), and pour in when the pan was emptied, and empty/extract it.

just my $.02

I bought the mityvac that runs off a compressor, not the hand pump one, but the bleeder valve on it is such that it doesn't make much suction. This 12V electric marine unit is better, and the integrated container for the waste oil makes disposal easy.

I heard from my MB tech friend today, who confirmed the shop's use of the top adaptor fitting with the O ring seals (I guess we can't buy that adaptor from MB?), so that is the way to go next time, I have to cobble something together to try that method next time.

This is the second time I've changed my oil and have a question I should have asked earlier.

With the oil filter from Mercedes, they're 5 o rings. I don't see where the two smaller one's are suppose to go.

Anyone know?

I just saw the O ring on the dip stick. Is that where the smaller o ring is suppose to go?

I wasn't sure what those extra o-rings were for either, I looked around but gave up.

I used the Jabsco pump and successfully retrieved 8qts with the little tube down the dipstick tube. I am quite happy with that outcome. I was not happy with the condition of my oil after only 5000mi, it was much darker than I expected. I am glad I changed it when I did.

The first oil change was done by the dealership. So, I'm wondering if they failed to put in one of the o rings where the filter goes. I've got two in there, but am wondering if a 3rd is suppose to go there.

phatboypimp. Did you do the first oil change and if so, were there more than two o rings where the filter goes? This is not counting the really large one that seals the plastic housing.

I have a bad memory. But I believe there was three orings used on the filter cylinder. But I am not 100% I want to say there was one at the top and two on the bottom, but I am not sure.

Interesting.

Maybe someone will join in on this discussion that can clarify this for us.