SliverGray

This is the first time to do oil change myself on 2008 C300 4matic. I would like to ask a few questions before I do it.

1. Should engine temperature be cold or hot while I change engine oil?
2. Should I remove the old oil filter first and put new oil filter, and then drain old engine oil?
3. Should I use an electrical oil extractor or vacuum oil extractor?

Thank you for your helping.

seminole_kev

Depending on if you like to burn your hands or not, don't do it while it is hot ;-)

Warm to cold should be fine unless you're in an Arctic research station.

Generally, for draining oil, drain first via the drain plug, then remove the old filter (I've honestly never used a pump/extractor, but I hear they work fine). Then once nothing more is draining out, Put back in the drain plug, and put on the new filter. I haven't looked at what filter these take yet, but I'm assuming a normal, modern filter. Assuming that, make sure to wipe some oil around the rubber seal of the filter before screwing it on. At that point, refill with the proper amount and grade of oil.

C300Sport

I have always liked to warm the car up prior to changing the oil but it really doesn't matter as long as it is not very cold. The electric extractor is a an electric vacuum extractor so you can use electric or manual. I would begin vacuuming out the oil and then work on changing the filter while the pump is running. Really doesn't matter about which you do first but I would want the old element our before you finish evacuating the old oil.

javavu

I just got my C350 a few weeks ago so I have yet to have an opportunity to change the oil in this vehicle.

That said, for the last 10 yrs or so I have been using the oil extractor method exclusively to change oil in all our vehicles. I plan to do the same with the C350 when the time comes.

I have the Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator Plus, takes all but a dozen or so pumps to vacuum out all the oil. It has been a work horse & very reliable for me, I highly recommend this unit.

Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator Plus ~ $70 Shipped from Amazon


DIY oil change in less than 15 minutes from top of the engine bay without getting your hands dirty, or having to crawl under the engine.

Before starting, make sure your engine is adequately warmed up (I got lazy one time and did not allow for the oil to get warmed up and it took forever for the extractor to vacuum out the oil).

1. Insert the Mityvac's tube into the dip stick hole.
2. Pump the Mityvac about 10-12 times.
3. While the oil is being extracted, remove & replace the oil filter.
4. Once the oil is emptied from the engine, top off with new oil.
5. Voila!

The above Mityvac Plus has a switch button to reverse the flow of the fluid. Simply push this button to pump the old oil into the empty oil jugs.

No mess to fuss and no dirty hands! I can't see any reason why I would ever want to go back to crawling under the engine to drain the oil via the drain plug. Plus, there's no need to replace the crush washer on the drain plug.

I have posted this oil extracting method in another forum and was asked many times whether this method would get as much oil out as draining from the plug method. So I did a little experiment by after vacuuming the oil out, I then removed the drain plug from underneath, and it was bone dry, not a drop of oil.

Spec_Davis

do you pour the oil in the oil filter chamber?

javavu

Filling oil into the oil filter would make a mess trying to screw it to the engine, I never did this. Just make sure to run the engine for several minutes to allow oil to fill up the oil filter, then top off again.

Spec_Davis

okay so where do you pour the oil into?

javavu

Do you mean the new oil into the engine or the old oil from the extractor? Sorry, I don't quite understand your question.

Distalero

While I haven't changed oil on my C300 yet, every other vehicle I've owned requires a new drain plug washer each time you unscrew the plug. It's just a crush washer, but there's a risk of the plug leaking if you don't use a new one each time, and a definite risk of it leaking if you don't use one at all. If you don't use the factory filter, you still need the washer.

I've used an extractor in the past; the one that Griot's Garage offers, but it has never emptied out the pan completely. This is easily proved by pulling the drain plug after you use the extractor. About a quarter of a quart (what is that, 6 shot glasses full ? ) always poured out. I don't know about the Mityvac, but, for what it's worth....

Spec_Davis

sorry the new oil.

RLE

You add oil through the oil filler cap, of course. The fleece oil filter comes with new o-rings which should be changed every time.

Sucking the oil out DOES remove all of it, in fact more than through the drain plug because the bottom of the plug opening is slightly above the bottom of the pan due to the drain plug opening boss. This subject has been beaten to death on every other MB list, tests have been made, and there is no doubt that the suction method is superior.

At the dealer, the oil is sucked out from the top of the dipstick tube, leaving a bit in the tube which is inconsequential.

I've been using my $50 Topsider (from West Marine) for years and there is no way I would go back to the old way.

Spec_Davis

thanks guys

tategoi

Sorry guys OT a little. What engine oil are you using? I know Mercedes Benz recommends Mobil One, but the sole dealership here is using Shell Helix

javavu

Not sure what aftermarket filter you were using, but all new oil filter whether OEM or after market comes with O-ring attached.

I've also had a Griot extractor, works great for many years until it gave out on me and I replaced it with the Mityvac. On certain car engine, the dip tube is blocked and doesn't allow for the vacuum tube to bottom out on the oil pan, this could very well be your case.

Otherwise, unless you tilt your car toward the drain hole, extracting from the dip tube has always been the better method. This is the standard oil extracting protocol for both MB & Porsche dealers.

seminole_kev

He's talking about around the drain plug, not the filter.

Ron Jr

I have always primed the new filter, this was how I was taught when I was a kid by my Uncle who used to drag race at Islip speedway. This was MANY years ago, I would say about 40 or so.

javavu

Gotcha

Distalero

I've used an extractor with the car on level ground, and when the car was at a high angle on ramps and/or jack stands, and each and every time there was a residual amount of oil that drained from the drain plug. I used the extractor tubing that fit down the dipstick tube and to the bottom of the oil pan, and I was able to maneuver it around so that I got to all of the pan I could get to (as I'm sure you know, you can hear it suck air when it begins to drain most of the oil, so at that point you maneuver it around to pull more oil out; hopefully you do this), and some oil still left the drain plug hole when I unscrewed the plug. No dipstick tube allows complete access to the pan.

No one can say that an extractor gets all of the oil unless you pull the pan to prove it. I'd bet that you will find more oil than you think, left as a residual. Maybe people don't want to think that they're leaving an amount in the pan? Point me to a study that involves pulling the pan, and I'll believe it. Otherwise I'll rely on what I've actually seen, rather than what I would hope for.

SliverGray

Thank you for all information. I am not sure whether I buy an electrical oil extractor or manual oil extractor after I read reviews.

javavu

I've seen one too many arguments on drain vs. vac. debate, and I'm not trying to advocate against the draining method. Think of it as emptying your soda out of the cup sucking through a straw vs. punching a hole on the side closest to the bottom of the cup.

Either method will get the fluid out, just that one is easier to do than the other. To each his own.

Although I think your Griot extractor might have been broken. My Griot at the end had a slow seal leak and could not hold vacuum and never did extracted all the oil from the engine. Or you might not have used it correctly (i.e. not inserting the tube all the way to the bottom of the pan, or pushing the tube too far down causing it to curl upward, etc ...)

SliverGray - I wouldn't let one uninformed user steer you from using the vacuum method. I've been using this method on all my vehicles for the last 10 yrs. My wife's Lexus RX300 logged over 160K miles thus far with no issue. On your next visit to MB dealer, ask them what method they use to extract the oil, if this is good enough for MB & Porsche, should be good enough for us weekend backyard mechanics. Just make sure to buy a quality extractor such as the Mityvac and you'll be fine.

acr2001

This is some annoying thread!

- All of the dealers use an extractor. The extractor removes MORE OIL because the drain plug is NOT on the bottom of your oil pan its on the side. If you argue this you are just showing your lack of intelligence. There is no need to "drop the pan" you can just pull the plug and see that NO oil comes out.

- You need to use MB approved oil. This does not mean following your dealer, because so many dealers use incorrect unapproved oil. Just because it says Mobile 1 and has the proper weight does NOT mean it is a safe oil to use. Check your manual, I'm not sure if the specific oil type has changed with the W204. With the W203 you can only use Mobile 1 European formula which has a larger percentage of protective additives.

- You need to use an MB approved fleece filter if you're going for the full service interval between oil changes, or you are asking for problems.

- Yes you can pour the oil into the oil filter housing, and it's easier because its large enough that you don't need a funnel.

- You should loosen the oil filter enough that air can get in, then suck out all of the oil. After it is all out, swap the filter. This way it has time to drain out so it's less of a mess.

It's really a very simple job if you just use what it asks for in the book. Only buy the filter and oil from the dealer if you like being ripped off.

If you're using a mightyvac be careful to watch how full it is. If it overfills the piece of junk will spill oil all over your driveway, and the pumping mechanism will be contaminated with oil. It mentions as a feature that it has an auto stop to prevent overflowing, this is BS as that feature does not work.

Distalero

Well, let's see: would unscrewing the plug, which as you say is at the SIDE of the pan (above the actual bottom of the pan), and seeing no oil come out PROVE that all, or even most of the oil was extracted? This is critical thinking in your book? He He. I think I WAS showing my intelligence. How about you?

acr2001

Wow. The VERY simple point is that the extractor gets out AT LEAST as much oil as pulling the plug does. My comment was pointed at those who believe that the extractor does not get as much oil out as pulling the drain plug. And yes, pulling the plug would prove that ATLEAST MOST of the oil was extracted, as that is the whole point of the drain plug. My god the stupidity. Done with this thread.

451/443=EW

I can only say change the oil at a cold temp, because in order for the car to be cold it would have to sit unrun. This will let all the oil come to the bottom. I wouldnt want to splash old oil all over the motor befor you put in clean oil. Let it drip to the bottom and the engine will be as clean as it can be. get rid of the old and in with the new.

That being said, I would take it to a dealer, unless you just really want to get to know your car.

Carsy

I suggest that oil should be drained/extracted when hot as all the 13,000 miles of suspended solids are still in suspension & have not fallen the bottom of the sump.It has been mentioned above that having the oil hot aids with the extraction method. You can drain it hot then have lunch with the drain plug extracted to return when residual oil has drained down.