albert101

I think I found the cause of the rattle! I literally took everything in the center console out of the dashboard and by process of elimination, I was able to pinpoint the rattle coming from the COMMAND screen.

I then proceeded to yank out the COMMAND screen and low and behold, behind it, I found a cable that moves up against it's plastic housing. I played around with it, moved it around and true enough, it made the exact same sound that I hear!

Here's a shot of the cable that I'm talking about behind the COMMAND screen. I pulled it out of its housing but when reinstalled back in the the dash, the cable is supposed to be flush inside the housing.


I then proceeded to wrap the cable with felt tape (sorry I don't have a picture for this, was too excited to have discovered the source of the rattle) and put everything back together. I then took the car out for a spin and true enough, I couldn't hear the rattle anymore! I'm one very happy man again!

Just for kicks, here's a shot of everything in the center dash removed.

vic viper

Congrats, its always a real relief to find the cause of something that annoying.

albert101

Indeed! And thank you very much Vic viper for your DIY on how to remove the center console. I followed your DIY to the letter and it worked like a charm. I even followed your advice on how to make the special tool to remove the AC vent. Here's my creation made from a clothes hanger.


Thanks again! Cheers!

C300S 6MT

Ang galing mo pare ko...

albert101

Salamat pare! Nice to see a fellow countryman here.

albert101

Going back to my rattle/tricking sound where my instrument cluster is, I took out the IC trim and the ticking/rattle was still there. It mainly happens when going over rough roads or accelerating or decelerating hard. There are 4 torx (20) screws holding the IC in place. I took off the IC and noticed that if I were to twist it, it's exactly the same sound that I hear. I then noticed that if I were to only install the bottom two screws on the IC cluster, the rattle would go away! So i reinstalled the top two screws but did not tighten it all the way. Just enough to make sure the IC doesn't fall off. Drove around for an hour and so far no rattle/ticking sound anymore! I believe the rattle/ticking sound is coming from the IC itself where when I drove over rough roads, due to the 4 screws, the IC cluster will flex, even just 1mm and will cause the ticking/rattle. Now with just the bottom two screws tightly holding the IC, I believe the IC doesn't twist as much anymore and therefore doesn't cause the ticking/rattle! At least in theory, it does make sense! I'm quite relieved that I was able to solve this issue cause it was driving me nuts for ages. I hope it just doesn't come back tomorrow though!

iapboy

took it to the dealer this week, and the dealer has taken apart the gagues and dash and applied "Flocking tape" The sounds have gone now!!! very happy about that.

Costantinos

Hello there.
I was amazed when i saw those photos. I had the worst nightmare inside my brand new car and I am watching it every day. I don't know some how a spider enter inside my cluster and died there.It is in the center of the speedometer and it does not going off. I need to open the cluster but I need someone to explain to me how he remove that plastic cover that you show on your photos. can you please explain that to me. I will be a happy man if you can assist me as my dealer told me to live it as it is.Imagine that!!

albert101

I will try my best in words to help explain how to remove it. Though it would be best if I were to show you pictures. I will try and look for some but in the meantime, try and picture what I am saying.

In order to remove your cluster, you first need to remove the trim that surrounds your cluster. This is the black plastic trim that looks like it wraps around the opening of where the cluster is installed. In order to remove this trim, insert a plastic knife or thing prying tool at the top of the trim. In between the trim and the dashboard. 1/3 of the way to the left and also 1/3 of the way to the right. You'll then need to twist it and the top part of the trim will pop down. Then pull on the bottom part of the trim. Don't worry about putting some force into pulling out the bottom part as this is just held on my friction. Might need a good yank so don't be shy. But be sure you pop down the top part first!

Once that trim is off, you will see the entire cluster. There are 4 screws you need to remove. You will need a torx 20 screwdriver for it. Remove the 4 screws and pull out the knob for the cluster dimmer control. Just pull it out as that's also held on my friction. Once all 4 screws and the dimmer knob has been removed, remove the cluster by removing it from the top first, folding down towards you. Make sure though that you have the steering wheel in the farthest position as you will need the space in order to get the cluster out of its place. This will require some angling as you remove the cluster from its place. Make sure you remove the wire clip from the rear as well.

Once the cluster is totally out from you car, you'll notice that the cluster is essentially two halves, held together by clips. Just pry out the clips out of their positions and then you'll have access to the internals of the cluster. You should be able to get the spider out already.

Hope this helps!

PS: Make sure you do not start the car when the cluster is not installed. I haven't tried it yet but my dealer advised me not to do so. Something to do with the immobilizer or sort.

willierw

I told my dealer about a noise and what i though it was when i dropped off the car for service... and when i got it back they said there was something loose on the outside of the firewall (i thought sure just an excuse) but the noise is fixed and has been for about 3 months!

iatacs19

How do you remove the LCD part? I was able to take out the vents, but was unable to remove the LCD unit. I didn't want to force it and break something.

I could tilt up but then I couldn't slide it out, the door kept getting caught in the dash.

Any hints for me?

fidanh

Guys, I had the same issue, actually there are two. First when I bought my w204 after 42000 km i had a rattle in the instrument cluster rim, which was fixed by the authorized dealer and I have no idea how (not type of a guy that does things on his own).

Later on, I had this rattle coming from the center speaker, even though I have no center speaker, but the area there. It still drives me crazy and have no idea how to solve it, neither the dealer knows. While in the dealer i tried to take it off and drive without the mask covering it and it did fine. Then i tried to put the mask without the parktronic meter, it was better and not much rattle. Once i plugged in the parktronic meter the noise is unbearable. I tried putting in felt as per instructions of some users in the forum, but didnt work, tried doubling and tripling the felt, yet didnt work .

Whomever finds a solution (except super gluing all the area), you name the gift... it just drives me crazy.

bio10155

I just want to say a big thank you for showing what you did to 'cure' this annoying problem. I bought my 2011 E350 Coupe a couple of months ago, and I too hear this high-pitched 'tick-tick' noise when the car goes over some rough ground. This normally happens when the car is first cold in the morning, and sort of disappears when its a couple of degrees warmer in the cabin. It was today that it finally gotten to me - was still making that annoying noise which I decided to try and determine where it was coming from..so I took a chance - followed your instructions.. and yanked out the plastic that sits at the bottom of the instrument cluster and then drove around..and you know I got lucky..no noise!! Therefore, by the process of elimination - I found my culprit! The next stage...was to try out your DIY method.

Now, I could of let MB taken care of it - since the car is still under warranty, but my gut instinct tells me - they would of just made a half-*** job of it- put a few tape on edges and, most likely the noise would still persist....

Anyway, yours was a good start - to which I modified it slightly with xtra adhesive double sided tape, which I stuck on 'flet' to stop certain friction parts from making contact with one another. What I have noticed with my W212 is that the majority of clips which are on the plastic shroud were 'felted', and some were missing...so I made sure these were done. The next thing I done - like you, was to pad the inner plastic with the double sided tape (note my tape is padded) and then cut some kitchen cloth to replicate the felt material to which I stuck on the tape. I could't really pad it up using foam - as the fitting is not entirely the same as yours above.

Well..the result is..no noise after the test run!! Think I have cured the problem! Only time will tell tomorrow when I take it out from cold. Will report back to the board ASAP! So..hats off to you as we say in England! A jolly well done!!

bio10155

Dear all,

As promised, I'll update you on the noise fix....well, this morning I took the car out on the rough road and.....YAY!!! That horrid 'tick-tick' noise has now disappeared! I even took the car into even rougher ground to seee the tolerances and still nothing! I'm so happy with the results and a big big thank you for albert101 DIY thread!!

bio10155

I just wanted to to reiterate on your findings - it is the interface where the plastic trim meets the dashboard speedometer clear plastic cover. It was where my 'tick-tick' noise problem was. Tip I would give, is to wedge a bit of cloth between the trim/dash cover so it won't rub. I'm sure this will solve a lot of problems. Just a shame MB didn't make that platic trim out of some sort of rubber/leather composit to absorb movements.