I have a 2008 C300 sport with 66k miles. My front brake makes noise if I brake hard. Is there a DIY thread on how to change out the front brake pads and rotors?

Also, which brake pads and rotors would you guys recommend?

I had the dealership replace the rear brake pads 30k miles ago. Do you think i should change out the rear pads and rotors also?

 

Theres a DIY for the W203 model. I'm not sure if they have the same set up, but it should be similar:

http://www.ideamarketers.com/?Merced...ticleid=500220

or:

 

Writing a DIY was on my to-do list after swapping pads/rotors a few wks ago, but alas, no time. But now that someone actually needs it...

First off, the swap is definitely something that anyone can tackle. There really isn't much to it. The vid that Domm posted above shows just how easy it is to do. There are some key differences for our w204s, though, so here goes nothing.

Naturally, standard disclaimer applies: I'm not a licensed/bonded/insured/accredited mechanic. Just someone who wrenches on his own car. Use these steps at your own risk!

1. Break loose the lug bolts. 17mm socket and torque wrench needed.
2. If you're changing rotors as well, turning the steering wheel will be a huge help. If working on the driver's side, turn all the way right. Turn left for the passenger side. Will explain why further down.
2. Jack the car up, using the Reverse Logic Jack Pad if you have it (not affiliated w/ them, just love it for it's simple, but useful design! ).
3. [personal safety thing] Put an extended jack stand by the jack point. I don't lower the car onto it, just use it as a backup in case the jack fails.
4. Remove the lug bolts and the wheel.

Here's a pic of the whole setup (rotor, caliper, and caliper carrier). Sorry for the obscured 18mm carrier bolt. I had a better pic with the rotor turned for a clearer view of all bolts, but it got corrupted after I deleted the original.



5. Remove the top caliper bolt. Here's the w204 specific difference from the vid above. The caliper is held on by bolt as well as a nut that spins in conjuction. To remove it, you need to hold the 17mm nut in place while you loosen the 13mm bolt. Here's a tip, one that caused me much angst/time. There is not enough room to fit a std 17mm wrench over the nut. You need a small/mini crescent wrench, which is thinner and will slide over the nut. I didn't have one so had to get creative.
6. Remove the lower caliper bolt using the same method as in Step 5.
7. If working on the passenger side, unplug the wear sensor. Skip if working on the driver's side.
8. Wiggle the caliper back and away from the pads.
9. Rest the caliper on something so as to not put pressure on the lines. I used an inverted garden bucket, but use whatever you need to in order to not stretch the lines!
10. Remove the pads by wiggling them out of the guide brackets.
11. Use a big c-clamp to compress the piston back down. Per the video above, using the old inboard pad give the clamp something solid to push against. I've always used thick piece of rubber that covers the entire piston, but you get the idea.

Now if you're only changing pads, skip to Step 19. Next steps cover carrier and rotor removal.

12. Loosen the two 18mm caliper carrier bolts. This is where having the wheel turned (Step 2) before hand is essential. Breaking the bolts loose requires a breaker bar/torque wrench. Because of length of these bars, you will not be able to access the bolts w/o turning the wheel. Once you've broken the bolts loose, do not remove the carrier just yet.
13. Remove the rotor retaining screw. It's a Torx, but the actual size slips my mind ATM. Nothing special though. I had it in my std set.
14. Determine if the rotor has seized/rusted to the hub. If it has, spray some WD40, let soak, then come back with your mallet in hand. My rotors were severly seized because even after WD40, I had to do some major pounding before they broke loose. This is why I stated to only loosen the carrier bolts in Step 12 vs removing the carrier. If you remove the carrier and start whacking away at the rotor, once you break the rust, the rotor is going to fly off the hub and have a good shot at smashing your hand or foot. Leaving the carrier on prevents this.
15. Now remove both 18mm carrier bolts.
16. With one hand, hold the rotor in place while removing the carrier with the other.
17. Put the new rotor on and lock it down w/ the retaining screw.
18. Re-install the carrier, remembering to put Loctite Blue on the bolts.
19. Prepare the new pads - install the old wear sensor into the new pad if it hasn't tripped (passenger side only); otherwise, install the new sensor.
20. Break out your bottle of anti-squeal goo. Use the old pads as a reference to where the inboard/outboard pad will make contact and lay the goo down in a similar pattern, e.g. the inboard pad will need a circular pattern because of the contact w/ the piston.
21. Slide the pads onto guide brackets on the carrier and push them until contact is made w/ the rotor.
22. Slide the caliper onto the carrier/pads. There should be plenty of room if you compressed the piston all the way back.
23. Re-install the caliper bolts, again, using Loctite Blue on the threads. Tighten until the 17mm nut starts to spin. Then using your mini-crescent wrench, hold the nut in place whil tightening the 13mm bolt.
24. Re-connect the wear sensor.
25. Re-install wheel and torque the bolts.
26. Repeat for the other side and you're done.
27. DO NOT FORGET to pump the brake pedal after you've buttoned everything up and put all the tools away. You need to seat the piston/pads to the rotor. Otherwise, you will be in for a rude awakening when you first try to stop the car. This is a very easy step to forget. Something I did years ago that gave me quite a scare since I had slope to my driveway. Nothing worse than that feeling of surprise helplessness. Luckily I remembered to use the parking brake after a moment of panic.
28. Go out and properly bed your pads. I've used the method desribed on Zeckhausen's website for years now and have never had an issue.

So there you have it. Hopefully I haven't left out anything. I'll review it after I post and make edits if needed. Feel free to point things out as well and I'll edit. Looks like I was pretty wordy, but again, this is a very straight-forward job that will give you satisfaction in knowing you saved hundreds of dollars.

 

Thanks for the DIY Doanster!!

I think Im gonna go with the Akebono brake pads. Which rotors did u go with and where did u get it at?

 

Where can I order the OEM front rotors at? The dealership wants $115 each and parts.com wants $170 shipped for two front rotors.

I read old post on here that said they bought the OEM rotors for $100 shipped for two rotors. Where can I find those prices at

 

You will not find genuine OEM rotors for $100/pair. That price is probably for the OEM-equivalents from Meyle. I do believe Amazon carries them. They are a German company that's been around for a long time so they're probably fine to use, so it's your call. I bought OEM rotors locally for $160...

 

Just called two dealerships in houston. The lowest price is $102 each.

 

Forget that "big C clamp" stuff. Buy a pad compression tool.

 

Thanks for the writeup Doanster. I'm planning to do my rear brakes for the first time and this DIY is going to be a great help! Not planning to do rotors until the 2nd brake pad change (3rd set) which should be ok right?

 

Ummm, notice how the compression tool's backing plate is shaped like... [gasp] a brake pad?

Seriously, though, I'm all for having the right tools to get the job done... WHEN they're required. In this case, I do have a complete piston compression set since VAG cars have the PITA rear pistons that need to be turned and compressed at the same time.
Breaking out that set is overkill our w204s because then I'd have to fiddle with getting the correct adapter out, etc.
Also, was trying to show how easy this can be with tools most have in the garage vs needing to get a specific tool before hand.

 

Can't tell you for sure since I don't know how you brake on a daily basis.

In general, yes, you can do pads only the first change (especially the rears) unless they are warped (which necessitated my swap). Just measure the thickness w/ some digital calipers or old school micrometer to confirm you've got plenty of metal left. The min thickness is stamped on the rotors themselves.

 

There really isn't much to it. The vid that Domm posted above shows just how easy it is to do.

 

So I orderd the parts!

Front rotors: $170shipped at parts.com
Front pads: $80shipped at amazon

After I install the new brakes and rotors, what break in technique/method do yall recomend?

 

Zeckhausen

 

Great write up. I did a full brake job on Sunday, I added some extra steps by painting the calipers but this is well written.

 

The side you see in the picture presses against the outboard face of the caliper, a metal plate/strip goes across the piston face and the turn screw contacts it and pushes it back in as the screw is turned.

 

Hey komp, how did you go about painting the calipers? Any pictures?
Thanks

 

I think Im gonna go with the Akebono brake pads.

 

I used a spray on caliper paint. I did a red and black setup and put new lettering on them I will try and get some pictures up this weekend. I have more stuff to do before then, I have my first car show of the season in Carlisle, PA this coming weekend.

 

Hi Doanster, thank you for the nice post which is extremely helpful.

One thing though, before step 11 for resetting the piston, you probably want to take off the cap for the brake fluid so that resetting the piston will not pressure the cap off.

 

I've changed breaks hundreds of times and never took off the master cylinder cap nor has it ever popped off.

 

ah... I only did it once and i did take off the cap as i was told by a tutorial elsewhere, so i am practically not at a position to justify the consequences of not taking off the cab. So based on hundreds of practical experiences you had, you are correct, though there is a difference between possibility and probability.

In this case the probability may be low, however when I reset the piston I did notice that the brake fluid leveled up.

 

Don't get me wrong, there's no harm in opening it up (except the chance that you could allow dirt to fall in...which is BAD). But yes, the fluid will certainly go back up as the pistons are depressed. And if you (generic you...meaning anyone) did add fluid when the brakes were very worn then you certainly can (and perhaps will) over flow the reservoir. And you don't want brake fluid leaking on things, especially anything painted as it damages paint.

Short story, if you are going to remove the cap, be sure to clean around it prior to doing so.

 

Don't just remove the cap and let it sit there exposed. Rather, monitor the fluid level as you compress the piston. If you forsee it reaching the top before you've completely compressed the piston, pop the cap and remove some fluid w/ a medicine dropper or something. If you're about to overflow the reservoir, having it spill all over the place isn't good to begin with.

 

What about brakes??