TCU RESET...PLZ DON'T LAUGH...
TCU RESET...PLZ DON'T LAUGH...
oK so I'm new to all this, I just got a 2009 C300 Sport (6 speed m/t) with under 18k miles. Now I have driven manual transmissions before, my husband has an 03 VW Jetta (m/t). So I'm not new to this however I have never driven a m/t car and not been able to get used to it! lol I just can't seem to get used to 1st! I don't know if its me or what, but I have read that resetting the TCU can help the car learn how I drive, now here comes the "funny"
(remember I'm a girl and very new to all this technical stuff
) is the reset only for automatics or can I also reset my 6 speed?
I would truly love some help here...
(remember I'm a girl and very new to all this technical stuff
) is the reset only for automatics or can I also reset my 6 speed? I would truly love some help here...
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,601
Likes: 28
From: Atlanta, GA
2008 C300 Sport 6 Speed Manual, 1953 Chevy Bel-Air, 2015 Audi allroad, 1963 Chevy Apache
Welcome to the forums and congrats on the car. If you want to reset the ECU (engine control unit) to baseline specs, you can just unhook the battery for a min or two.
What you are likely experiencing is just a difference in clutch take up compared to the VW. I have driven manuals for over 20 years and I would have to say the MB unit is one of the harder ones to launch smoothly and consistently from a start. You get accustomed to it but I still sometimes get a less than glorious take off.
BTW- A female choosing to drive a manual is awesome…and pretty freakin hot
What you are likely experiencing is just a difference in clutch take up compared to the VW. I have driven manuals for over 20 years and I would have to say the MB unit is one of the harder ones to launch smoothly and consistently from a start. You get accustomed to it but I still sometimes get a less than glorious take off.
BTW- A female choosing to drive a manual is awesome…and pretty freakin hot
It's not you, especially if you are used to the VW. This is one of the more challenging manuals I have ever driven, and that's with 40+ years of driving!
If you are particularly concerned about working with first gear, here are some tips I learned on my car. I assume yours would be similar. From a standstill, the car wants about 1500-1700 rpm for clutch engagement so as not to create a shudder in the driveline. The clutch pedal release works best if NOT one continuous motion, but with a slight pause at the initial engagement of the friction point, and then resuming full release smoothly. But, while the left foot is pausing, the right is continuing to increase throttle. (Having been a drummer has helped me with this car!) Getting out of first into second also works best with a very quick snap of the wrist, as any delay allows the revs to drop too much, causing a surge/lunge on engagement of second.
I recall some VWs I've had as having a lighter, easier, more forgiving clutch. This Mercedes clutch sort of looks back up at you and says, "You vill get zis eggs-aktly ze vay I vant it!"
If you are particularly concerned about working with first gear, here are some tips I learned on my car. I assume yours would be similar. From a standstill, the car wants about 1500-1700 rpm for clutch engagement so as not to create a shudder in the driveline. The clutch pedal release works best if NOT one continuous motion, but with a slight pause at the initial engagement of the friction point, and then resuming full release smoothly. But, while the left foot is pausing, the right is continuing to increase throttle. (Having been a drummer has helped me with this car!) Getting out of first into second also works best with a very quick snap of the wrist, as any delay allows the revs to drop too much, causing a surge/lunge on engagement of second.
I recall some VWs I've had as having a lighter, easier, more forgiving clutch. This Mercedes clutch sort of looks back up at you and says, "You vill get zis eggs-aktly ze vay I vant it!"
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,601
Likes: 28
From: Atlanta, GA
2008 C300 Sport 6 Speed Manual, 1953 Chevy Bel-Air, 2015 Audi allroad, 1963 Chevy Apache
It's not you, especially if you are used to the VW. This is one of the more challenging manuals I have ever driven, and that's with 40+ years of driving!
If you are particularly concerned about working with first gear, here are some tips I learned on my car. I assume yours would be similar. From a standstill, the car wants about 1500-1700 rpm for clutch engagement so as not to create a shudder in the driveline. The clutch pedal release works best if NOT one continuous motion, but with a slight pause at the initial engagement of the friction point, and then resuming full release smoothly. But, while the left foot is pausing, the right is continuing to increase throttle. (Having been a drummer has helped me with this car!) Getting out of first into second also works best with a very quick snap of the wrist, as any delay allows the revs to drop too much, causing a surge/lunge on engagement of second.
I recall some VWs I've had as having a lighter, easier, more forgiving clutch. This Mercedes clutch sort of looks back up at you and says, "You vill get zis eggs-aktly ze vay I vant it!"
If you are particularly concerned about working with first gear, here are some tips I learned on my car. I assume yours would be similar. From a standstill, the car wants about 1500-1700 rpm for clutch engagement so as not to create a shudder in the driveline. The clutch pedal release works best if NOT one continuous motion, but with a slight pause at the initial engagement of the friction point, and then resuming full release smoothly. But, while the left foot is pausing, the right is continuing to increase throttle. (Having been a drummer has helped me with this car!) Getting out of first into second also works best with a very quick snap of the wrist, as any delay allows the revs to drop too much, causing a surge/lunge on engagement of second.
I recall some VWs I've had as having a lighter, easier, more forgiving clutch. This Mercedes clutch sort of looks back up at you and says, "You vill get zis eggs-aktly ze vay I vant it!"
I think Glyn may have said it best a while back when he described it as "agricultural". It sometimes does feel a bit like a bucking tractor if you get it wrong.
Well thank you gentlemen for the advise, I may disconnect the battery and see if that helps any but I seem to agree with Sportstick too...basically its just practice. I'm gonna have to pay more attention because I hate it when I think I'm good and release the clutch from 1st to 2nd and almost get whiplash!!! 
Here we go...watch out!!! 
Thanks again guys!!

Here we go...watch out!!! 
Thanks again guys!!
Well thank you gentlemen for the advise, I may disconnect the battery and see if that helps any but I seem to agree with Sportstick too...basically its just practice. I'm gonna have to pay more attention because I hate it when I think I'm good and release the clutch from 1st to 2nd and almost get whiplash!!! 
Here we go...watch out!!! 
Thanks again guys!!

Here we go...watch out!!! 
Thanks again guys!!
LOL...guess we all have a "Lurch" moment...I'm gonna try at the 2500-3000 and see if i can get the hang of it.
On another note, I'm considering some H&R Sport Springs...or maybe the Super Sport...but putting them over the stock shocks, what are your thoughts, advise?
On another note, I'm considering some H&R Sport Springs...or maybe the Super Sport...but putting them over the stock shocks, what are your thoughts, advise?
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On springs, the ones you chose are excellent, being the mostly linear type and designed to work with your (young 17km old) shocks. The drop is only 1/2"-3/4", and somewhat adjustable in the rear. Some hardcore go with the super-sports for max cheap drop and that look. I'd advise NOT to use H&R SS springs, as the dual rate design is not right all the time .... you are supposed to ride on the soft rate for normal use and get into the stiff zone at high loads/compression. But some of these have you riding at the transition zone on the spring ... not good.
You need to express what you want from the suspension for best advice. If it's just less lean and quicker response, and your roads are not in bad shape, anti-sway bars are a valid option ..... Sportstick likes his bar only upgrade.
.
Hope that the earlier advice does help, welcome to MBWorld! If the real concern is 1-->2, let's spend another moment on that. Some folks shift at a rate of gearshift knob motion so that it almost pauses in the left side of the H pattern before continuing straight back to 2nd. This car demands that you move the lever quickly, so you really are making one snap motion, blowing through any detent you feel in the middle of that shift. That speed helps coordinate your clutch release to also happen more quickly. The practice will be making that quickly and smoothly for this grabby clutch. It is easier to learn by shifting between 2500 and 3000 just to start. Then, work your way up to normal "enthusiastic" rpms. When it works, it feels seamless, but even now, I satisfy my own requirements for a good 1--2 shift about 9 out of 10 times, and then there's always that last one with a little lurch.

Sportstick was correct about the 1 -> 2 shift. Start shifting at relatively low rpms when learning, and practice.
On springs, the ones you chose are excellent, being the mostly linear type and designed to work with your (young 17km old) shocks. The drop is only 1/2"-3/4", and somewhat adjustable in the rear. Some hardcore go with the super-sports for max cheap drop and that look. I'd advise NOT to use H&R SS springs, as the dual rate design is not right all the time .... you are supposed to ride on the soft rate for normal use and get into the stiff zone at high loads/compression. But some of these have you riding at the transition zone on the spring ... not good.
You need to express what you want from the suspension for best advice. If it's just less lean and quicker response, and your roads are not in bad shape, anti-sway bars are a valid option ..... Sportstick likes his bar only upgrade.
.
On springs, the ones you chose are excellent, being the mostly linear type and designed to work with your (young 17km old) shocks. The drop is only 1/2"-3/4", and somewhat adjustable in the rear. Some hardcore go with the super-sports for max cheap drop and that look. I'd advise NOT to use H&R SS springs, as the dual rate design is not right all the time .... you are supposed to ride on the soft rate for normal use and get into the stiff zone at high loads/compression. But some of these have you riding at the transition zone on the spring ... not good.
You need to express what you want from the suspension for best advice. If it's just less lean and quicker response, and your roads are not in bad shape, anti-sway bars are a valid option ..... Sportstick likes his bar only upgrade.
.
a little speeding here and there (
) but that's about it, lol.
For that goal, save up a few $$ and consider "coil overs" ... springs with calibrated shocks.
example:
H&R Applications MB C300 RWD
H&R-coil-overs
Pic of Actual Parts
The "Street Performance Coilovers" (not SS) are height adjustable, about 2" max drop for a Sport Model.
There is some confusion about the resetting the TCU (auto-trans only, by flash), but really adjusting the throttle travel. I tried a modified adjustment and it worked for me and some others. You might give that a try:
Throttle Response Adjustment
.
example:
H&R Applications MB C300 RWD
H&R-coil-overs
Pic of Actual Parts
The "Street Performance Coilovers" (not SS) are height adjustable, about 2" max drop for a Sport Model.
There is some confusion about the resetting the TCU (auto-trans only, by flash), but really adjusting the throttle travel. I tried a modified adjustment and it worked for me and some others. You might give that a try:
Throttle Response Adjustment
.
Last edited by kevink2; Aug 4, 2012 at 10:35 PM.
Hope that the earlier advice does help, welcome to MBWorld! If the real concern is 1-->2, let's spend another moment on that. Some folks shift at a rate of gearshift knob motion so that it almost pauses in the left side of the H pattern before continuing straight back to 2nd. This car demands that you move the lever quickly, so you really are making one snap motion, blowing through any detent you feel in the middle of that shift. That speed helps coordinate your clutch release to also happen more quickly. The practice will be making that quickly and smoothly for this grabby clutch. It is easier to learn by shifting between 2500 and 3000 just to start. Then, work your way up to normal "enthusiastic" rpms. When it works, it feels seamless, but even now, I satisfy my own requirements for a good 1--2 shift about 9 out of 10 times, and then there's always that last one with a little lurch.

Well things are running a lot smoother now! Shifting from 1st to 2nd is moving along nicely!! Just wanted to say thanks for the tip ("It is easier to learn by shifting between 2500 and 3000 just to start.") Worked like a charm!
For that goal, save up a few $$ and consider "coil overs" ... springs with calibrated shocks.
example:
H&R Applications MB C300 RWD
H&R-coil-overs
Pic of Actual Parts
The "Street Performance Coilovers" (not SS) are height adjustable, about 2" max drop for a Sport Model.
There is some confusion about the resetting the TCU (auto-trans only, by flash), but really adjusting the throttle travel. I tried a modified adjustment and it worked for me and some others. You might give that a try:
Throttle Response Adjustment
.
example:
H&R Applications MB C300 RWD
H&R-coil-overs
Pic of Actual Parts
The "Street Performance Coilovers" (not SS) are height adjustable, about 2" max drop for a Sport Model.
There is some confusion about the resetting the TCU (auto-trans only, by flash), but really adjusting the throttle travel. I tried a modified adjustment and it worked for me and some others. You might give that a try:
Throttle Response Adjustment
.
I would love some Coil overs....just can't do it for now...so maybe I'll do the springs for a while and then down the road get the Coilovers.
Now on the Throttle Response Adjustment I did get a little lost, grant it I just glanced over it and will have to look again this evening and get back with you.
Glad it's working out...with more practice, you'll be able to bring back more "sporty" driving. When you nail it, the car is very smooth...a bit off, and you already know that it bites back! Lots of folks here can help with just about any other question you might have, so visit often!
.



