LandSeaAir

Fixed this with OEM parts for under $20, a new bulb plate was $15 and a new connector with two new leads was under $5, all from parts.com.

lpremkumar

C300 tail light wire is getting hot and melting, one can smell the melting plastic. This was in the news yesterday, there should be a recall. I got my right light fixed, I have a warranty. I am not sure whether the left light should also be changed.

4maticaddict

[QUOTE=lpremkumar;5715417]C300 tail light wire is getting hot and melting, one can smell the melting plastic. This was in the news yesterday, there should be a recall. I got my right light fixed, I have a warranty. I am not sure whether the left light should also be changed.[/
QUOTE]

No need to change an unburnt connector. But it can't hurt to add an additional ground wire to protect what you have.

IGB

What news was that??

TexFinn

Just a few threads below this one on the first page.

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ht-wiring.html

ptirado

My bulb went out yesterday on an '08 C350. Wen to Autozone and got a bulb to replace it. After I got home I noticed the passenger side was not as bright. I changed the bulb and it stayed the same.

Came into the site and noticed this thread. I just called MBUSA and they said it is not covered but to save receipts if it is fixed by dealer in case status changes.

I am filing a complain with NHTSA. I advise that anyone in this thread that has the issue to go and file so we can start showing significant numbers that may push the issue to a recall status.

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/Vehicl...nt/index.xhtml

RavenMDX

I'm having both tail light melted wiring and connectors changed today...at my expense. Too many recurring tail light errors in my dash. Enough is enough. But since they are simply replacing the wiring and connectors, surely the problem will come back in the future...

If an official recal is made in the future, will benz reimburse my invoice or will they find an actual permanent solution (benz will have to re-do the work)?

ptirado

Recommend filing a complaint with the NHTSA

vic viper

Stop complaining and fix it yourselves, a few bucks and an hour later and youre good.

Connector housing A2115450328
Contact spring A0135457626

Repair set (contact spring precrimped onto a pice of wire) A0005402905

ptirado

@ Vic Viper. It is not about complaining. It is about providing visibility to the NHTSA that the issue is larger than 21 vehicles.

Replacing the connector housing and contacts only "resets the clock", i.e. it will give you another x years until it melts again. Bottom line the issue could be bad grounding like some have suggested or the gauge of the wire not appropriate for the current.

Either way, MB Engineering should provide a True Fix that modifies the actual set up.

In my case, I was able to pull out the melted piece of the connector and reseat the pin directly. Basically "duct tape" until it fails again.

RavenMDX

Since this could become an official recall, I want to have it done by a benz dealer. At least I have a chance to get reimbursed rather than doing it myself.

makeinu0

wow...

RavenMDX

Had new wiring installed on both sides. Seems clean to me and no more dash errors. New pins, connectors, wiring, support plate, etc.

204-820-06-77 lamp carrier
211-545-03-28 plug
014-545-82-26 pin bushing
204-820-09-77 lamp carrier
211-545-03-28 plug
014-545-82-26 pin bushing

Let's hope they offer a permanent fix in the future.

AkaSigFreak

That looks much better than the repair the dealership did on my 08.
Good luck with it.

To Vic-
I don't think it should be the owner's responsibility to fix such a blatant safety issue on any car- especially one who's motto is "The Best or Nothing". There is nothing the owners are doing to cause this issue- it is an engineering/design flaw that needs to be addressed on a larger scale. Instead- Mercedes is allowing the dealerships to use their discretion as to which cars they want to fix. I could understand fixing it myself if I was driving a 1970 Chevy Nova- but we are referring to late model Luxury cars.

vic viper

You don't need those silicone seals on that connector.

RavenMDX

ok and? am I supposed to remove them now? my dealer did it this way. I will leave this as it is.

saurabh.sagdeo

Hi,
I am facing the same issue and MB CAC refused to repair it.
I think this is a design flaw in the car and should be a recall item.
Please contact me if you agree and we can reopen the case

vic viper

Did I say that?, a simple heads up to anyone who want to fix their own connectors as those wires are the wrong ones.

saurabh.sagdeo

How did you change the connector ? I am not able to take out the brown wire from the connector.

IGB

Vic, your posts are often informative and interesting. This one is certainly no different as I am with you 100%, and tried a similar approach in this same thread. Not only did I not get anywhere, but the general nature of the responses was to describe how "wrong I am", how "I don't understand" and how "MB should have more class and more integrity to know better and do better".

And yet if you were to read some of the complaints that were filed with the NHTSA, it becomes glaringly apparent that "class and integrity" are the two qualities that some of these complainants are lacking. Here is one:

Note he goes from "smoldering" to "visual flame" with only a "period" to separate the two. (Definition of "SMOLDERING": "Burn slowly with smoke but no flame"). LOL... ... As for mentioning moisture/water... Could he possibly mean water to put out the fires? LOL. And lets not overlook the couple of comments about the fuses (or lack thereof); a feeble and pretentious attempt at proving his knowledge about the particulars of this issue, little does he know it only proves his lack thereof.

Then you also have to consider the few who may have opted to file multiple complaints. Little do they know that any complaint filed with no V.I.N., or a duplicate V.I.N. or a fake V.I.N., and while it is accepted and posted, it does not make it into the final count when addressing the issue with he manufacturer. most people do not realize that these complaints are permanent markers etched in the history of every 2008-9 C-Class vehicle sold. While this might not impact those who leased their car, and regardless of whether this is fixed or not, or recalled or not, for the ones who own or are financing, it simply means a few $100 off the value of their car when it comes to resale value. All to save a few bucks they could have spent to avoid the "unsafe" and/or "fire risk" issues that they consider so dangerous!

vic viper

I apologize for that post, caught me on a bad day ..

Knightmare69

If that's what yours looks like after repairs then maybe MB did come out with a repair kit/updated version.

boom132

Well, wouldn't you know it. I have a trip planned for this weekend, and I get a tail light warning... sure as *****... I have the melted connector. 2010 model, 62k miles; no warranty, as I purchased this car used from the dealer. Guess I'll try to get the stealership to buck up... if not, at least I know I can fix it myself. I will be filing with the NHTSA shortly. They should at least know this is an ongoing problem; a safety issue. I may even contact MBUSA if I get any negative feedback from the stealership. I'll keep everyone apprised of the situation.

boom132

I contacted my local dealership, and because the vehicle is over 50K, they are unwilling to warrent or provide the service free of charge. Which is odd... because mileage has NOTHING to do with an electronic connector.... the connector has no wear and tear based upon mileage. What does it care if the vehicle has 5K miles or 500K miles.... Starting to get upset over this situation.

Sportstick

As a buyer of a used car out of warranty, why would you expect any kind of warranty coverage? MBUSA won't reimburse the dealer, so why would the dealer provide this service for no cost when they have no such obligation? The matter is the subject of a NHTSA engineering analysis. If they determine there is a defect, save your repair receipt and it will be reimbursable by MBUSA if the work done aligns with the needed repair. This is what I did. If no defect determination is made, the cost is yours, just as it would be for any other out of warranty failure.