I need to replace the driver's seat bottom due to a rip in the material. Does anyone have a step by step on how to remove the plastics off of the seat frame?? Getting the seat out is no problem but I just dont want to damage any of the plastic while taking it off.

Thanks!

 

Seeing as there has been no response to this thread, I went ahead and tried the repair on my own. I ordered a new seat bottom cover from the dealer ($298Cdn taxes included) and was ready to try.
1. move the seat into a position where you can remove the plastic cover over where the seatbelt bolts on to the seat frame. I was able to remove it with no tools by simply pulling the top of the piece gently towards the door opening and it will begin to unsnap.
2. Move the seat all the way forward and remove the 2 bolts holding the seat frame to the floor.
3. Move the seat all the way back and remove the 2 bolts holding the seat frame to the floor.
4. Make sure you lower the head rest all the way down and position the seat around the middle of the track. This will make it easier to remove the seat from the vehicle.
5. Un-do the battery and wait a few minutes. If the battery is left connected you may end up with "SRS Fault" and you will be making a trip to the dealer to reset this.
6. Lean the seat back against the rear seat and remove the cable connections.
7. Remove the seat.
8. Lay the seat down flat on the back and you will find 2 torx bolts holding on 2 U shaped clamps. Once these are off and the seat heater plug is removed from the holder, you can remove the entire bottom fo the seat, foam and all.
9. You dont need any tools to remove the old cover or to put on the new cover, just strong fingers.

On a side note, I did it exactly this way. I may have been able to just remove the 2 torx bolts and the U shaped clamps and taken the seat bottom off of the frame without doing all the other steps but I couldnt tell how it all came apart due to the lack of space and seeing what was under there. Im sure with the right torx socket it would be possible. It was 2 hours total but if you could just undo the 2 bolts and the U clamps, it would have been 20 minutes tops.
Im glad the seat now looks brand new and I saved myself the 3 hours the dealer quoted me on changing it for me.

Maybe add this to the "How to" section??

 

Old thread, but FYI, I have removed my seat bottom a couple of time to reshape the foam. All you have to do is remove the 2 torx screws right under the front of the seat. Lean the seat back all the way back, and the seat bottom literally lifts right out. The front of the seat bottom is secured by the torx screws, and the seat bottom rear is just resting on a brace. If it has heated seats, which mine does, there is one wire that is attached with the seat bottom.

It looks like a computer/hard drive type connector (sorry, I don't know what this type of connection is actually called), but the wire connected to the seat is joined with another wire at the harness end (all the connections under the seat). IMPORTANT...you HAVE to remove both connectors together as one (there is a black connector, which is tied to the seat bottom, and another connector with a white end). I tried forever to remove the connector that was associated with the seat bottom only, and it would not budge at all. I finally realized that the connectors had to come out together (they are joined at the side with a notch). When you are ready to put the seat bottom back in, stick the connectors back together, and plug them in together.

It really is an easy process. You can remove the seat bottom in about 5 minutes, and reinstall in the same amount of time.

 

Def add this to DIY section. Since our seats are **** material and crack a lot. I know I have to do this now.

 

we have a two spots that have ripped stitching on the driver's seat also. Considering that my wife treats this car like it's made of glass, I am disturbed to say the least. Can the MbTex not be restitched? Anyone with experience regarding this issue would be appreciated. haven't called shop yet....dealer wants $800 for an entire new seat. Bollocks I say.

 

I'm having the same issue with mine - the bottom part of the driver's seat ripped. I have to keep a towel over it - otherwise I can't stand looking at it every time I get in and out of the car. How long would it take to switch it out yourself?

 

30 mins, you dont have to remove the entire seat, just fold it upwards and loosen the two front torx screws holding the two clamps to the seat, then just pull it out and disconnect the seat heater.

 

Psyched I found this; I've got a new seat cover coming today and wanted to attempt it this weekend.

 

I replaced my driver's seat cover, and removed the whole seat as I wanted to clean the carpets under there anyway. But now I want to do the passenger's seat: I assume if I use this method, there's no need to disconnect the battery for the airbag sensor, right?

 

As long as you don't turn the ignition to "ON" while the seat is disconnected, there is no need to disconnect the battery.

That said, and if you are only cleaning under the seat, I don't see the need to disconnect the seat wire harness.

 

Thanks you answered my question, but what I meant is that I want to swap out the passenger's seat cover. When I did the driver's seat, I removed the whole seat, so I could clean as well as replacing the cover, but now want to do ONLY the passenger's lower seat cover/cushion assembly without having to pull the whole seat.

 

Well, for one major difference, the passenger seat cover/cushion assembly has the occupant sensor wired into it. See image below (red rectangle is the module with the wiring running up and into the cushion (dashed line)



If you have heated seats, that too is wired into the cushion (but I am sure you figured this part out when replacing the driver seat)...

So whether you are only replacing the MBTex or Leather cover (#27 in the chart below), or whether you are replacing the cover (#27) plus the cushion (#22) plus the bottom frame (#19) then you may still need to remove all 4 bolts holding the seat assembly onto the floorboard, tilt the seat back to allow yourself the ability to see what you are doing.



Good luck!

 

Ah, interesting, I forgot about the occupant sensor. Thanks for the tip!

 

I need to do this soon also.

 

Any idea on what size torx? I only have the hand variety which I assume will make this more difficult...

 

I don't know about this job in particular, but a set of 3/8" torx drive sockets is well worth it. Mine are Husky/HD (probably bought in a moment of urgent need) and have held up well over the years. But any decent-grade set should do for the home mechanic. Really useful and ~ $20 if I recall--gives you the ratchet, the pipe over the ratchet, ability to use a U-joint drive, etc.

 

Do you guys condition the leatherette on your seats?

Mine look like they are still brand new, 6.5 years later!!

 

Just an FYI- If your car is still under warranty, Mercedes will cover this. I recently had the driver's side replaced by the dealership. Even if it is not under warranty, it may be worth checking with the dealership as they are very aware of the issue. The fact that they keep the seat covers in stock tells me it's a fairly widespread problem.

 

Appears to be $236 (parts.com) for a plastic cover that barely lasts 5 years. Mine has a single tear in one of the grooves--anybody know if that can be glued or taped from the back? And thanks for the tips on removal.

 

 

Yeah, worth a shot. It's a 2013. However, they were unsympathetic on the muffler separation (see other post).

 

Y'all are just too fat. C class seats are meant for women or men under 180lb.

 

Ha! I'm under that, and my wife is way under that, but I can't speak to the prior owner. I did learn to drive in a '65 Pontiac whose seats lasted much longer.

 

You mean...uhh...

not horizontally challenged?



Sorry, lol.

 

I just got my new seat cover today, let me tell you what a pain in the *** to remove just the cover.