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[QUOTE=novalyx;7282819]Do you have a picture of how the wire metal attachment wire from the universal connector attaches to the original one?[/QUOT
Connecting the new actuator with the door lock indicator pin
This is as good as I' have. The connection is behind the rubber grommet. I think the actuator came with a small shackle that had two holes and grub screws. It doesn't really matter how it's connected as long as its secure and free to move up and down.
Thanks for the picture. What kind of wiring did you use? I broke the rod that came with mine so the wire that you used looks like a good solution to get mine working.
[QUOTE=jimmyinoz;7282877]
Originally Posted by novalyx
Do you have a picture of how the wire metal attachment wire from the universal connector attaches to the original one?[/QUOT
Connecting the new actuator with the door lock indicator pin
This is as good as I' have. The connection is behind the rubber grommet. I think the actuator came with a small shackle that had two holes and grub screws. It doesn't really matter how it's connected as long as its secure and free to move up and down.
[QUOTE=novalyx;7283258]Thanks for the picture. What kind of wiring did you use? I broke the rod that came with mine so the wire that you used looks like a good solution to get mine working.
It's the sort of wire you can get from the garden centre of DIY shop that's used on fencing. It's soft steel that can be easily twisted to give that extra rigidity.
Just want to say thanks for this thread. I did the actuator install over the weekend and it worked like a charm, pretty easy too.
I bought the car in December and everything checked out, Navi, Xenons, Full power seats, sport etc... took the car home and tried to lock it and thats when I realized the driver side door wouldn't lock.
I called the seller and he was like "oh yea, I just lock it from the inside"... he didnt mention that to lock it from the inside, the door had to be closed and you had to reach in from the back seat to close the front door every time...such a headache.
I would have done the install sooner but was waiting for warmer weather.
Hi. I am a new member. Ive owned a 2009 W204 C180 Blueeffciency ( I live in the UK). The door Im talking about has gradually kind of failed on me to the point I was still able to open from inside on few occasions. Now has ceased completely( I assume the door actuator and the iCarsoft diagnostic tool confirmed as well) and it doesnt unlock from outside or inside. Since I cant open the door at all, after reading few forums, I have decided today and removed the inner lining around the door and managed to pull the door card out. I have already bought 2 wire regular actuators lile those used in this thread, now being a rear door, I dont understand WHERE should I place it after wiring it in a similar way ( the green and blue wires to the grey/black and grey/blue of the original actuator), in order to be able to pull and push???
Please Help! Thank you.
Last edited by IoanW204; 08-02-2018 at 06:41 PM.
Reason: Spelling errors
Help please. I have posted yesterday under ypur comment rather than a reply.
Originally Posted by rob_fed
Wow! You guys have taken the original fix to another level! After over two years of service the fix I did still works.
Help please. I have posted yesterday under your last comment without realising I should have reply instead. I hope you can see this message and check the thread again. My comment is right at the bottom with a pic attached ( regarding a rear door).
Thanks.
For the front, i noticed he took out the aluminium cover without any difficulties and placed the actuator side-by-side with the stock faulty actuator. Then close the aluminium cover using steel rivet (dont know how to call it), easy task. Does not require any inner part trimming of the plastic door panel. On the other side, if the actuator is placed outside of the aluminium part which is way below (7 o'clock) position, the rod is not long enough and rod bending is required to connect it to the door lock. Troublesome for the mechanic i guess from the way i suggested to them after reading from the posts above.
For the rear, it is the headache part where the actuator must be placed nicely as it requires a stronger push/pull of the door lock. it is different than the front because the rod goes left/right instead of up/down like the front door. This actuator is placed outside of the aluminium cover by screwing against the aluminium cover. you will be able to find the right spot once u have adjusted the correct position.
(This info is for rear door issue if encountered)
All-in-all, the cost of doing is USD 90 (both front and rear passenger door)
Hi. I have PM you yesterday. My issue is with a rear door same model, actuator gone and door stuck on lock. I have managed to remove the inner lining around the door frame, then was able to pull the door card out. I have the aftermarket actuator and saw which wires I should connect to but how do I make the door to open and where do I attach the 2 wire actuator that I got onto the alumimium panel without taking it off. Can you please post a pic with your rear door, please... I have attached a pic of the rear door and what stage I am at.
I followed this and put in an aftermarket actuator.. I found the loud “clunk” sound annoying, so after a few months decided to fix the original actuator.
After drilling out the rivets, pulling out the window and door handle + lock mechanism, I was able to separate the lock mechanism to reveal the small electric motor pictured.
All it needed was clean internally as the commutator was dirty and not making contact with the brushes.
Reassembled and all is back to original.
Two things to note:
1. Make sure you drill out the right rivets. Some of the rivets need to remain on the aluminum panel to hold the power window actuator/frame in place.
2. I got away with grinding out one of the punched metal circles holding the bracket on the lock mechanism to open it up. It’s the accessible one that I ground out, then spun it to pull its apart to access the motor inside..
Hi. I have PM you yesterday. My issue is with a rear door same model, actuator gone and door stuck on lock. I have managed to remove the inner lining around the door frame, then was able to pull the door card out. I have the aftermarket actuator and saw which wires I should connect to but how do I make the door to open and where do I attach the 2 wire actuator that I got onto the alumimium panel without taking it off. Can you please post a pic with your rear door, please... I have attached a pic of the rear door and what stage I am at.
thank you.
Tried installing 2 wire actuator it is only moving in one direction. Either lock, or unlock. Any suggestions.
Basically, the w204 doors consist of the cosmetic interior door panel which holds all of the electrical switches, radio speaker and the interior door lever. The basic design has been used for years in MBZ cars.
Once the interior door panel is removed, you will find another aluminum door panel cover. This both a cover and a structural and the vapor barrier between the cosmetic interior panel and the actual door frame. It should be noted that the aluminum cover is riveted to the door frame and the power window tracks and motor are mounted to the aluminum cover via rivets and screws. When I put it back together, I was able to use bolts and nuts for the window track mounts.
To access my broken door lock actuator, you must remove the aluminum cover and exterior door handle to get the latch removed from the door.
The driver's side door lock actuator takes the most beating for two reasons, frequency of use and an obscure design with the door lock control module that allows the motor to still be pulsed while the door is open, even though the door lock is mechanically stopped so you don't lock your keys in the car.
I had everything apart with door lock actuator/latch assembly out of the car in the hopes of trying to replace the tiny electric motor and/or other mechanical parts. But I found the assembly had a lot of plastic catches and was afraid that if taken apart, I could not even use the broken unit manually.
These are typical actuator motors inside the door latch:
Well, since I had everything apart, I decided to try to use a universal actuator, the type commonly used by alarm installers. To piggy back on to the existing door lock push rod.
This is what I had, this is a 5 wire unit and you only need to use a 2 wire unit.
After much to do with voltage testing and other wiring investigation, you only need to use two wires that go to the original door latch motor. The colors are grey/black and grey/blue the second color is the line stripe color.
When it is all said and done, these two wires provided the 2-3 second pulse to the original actuator motor. I disconnected the original motor as it was not doing anything due to it's failure. I connected the universal actuator wires blue to the grey/black and the green to the grey/blue. This same pulse makes the new actuator go up/down to unlock/lock.
What I am not showing is the actuator mounted behind the aluminum panel. And the parallel push rod I bent to connect to the factory push rod.
But now that I know, I feel that I could of did all of this on the outside of the aluminum cover inside the cosmetic door panel.
I would have to cut away some of the strengthening ribs, but there seems that there would be enough room. This would make this fix very easy.
Aftermarket door lock actuators last almost forever providing they are installed properly without binding.
ive got a c220 with this problem and wondered whether you could fit this for me and give me a quote on doing it?
Probably could be fixed in the a similar way, but I am just a owner enthusiast and sorry, cannot provide any quote for this type of work.
Where are you located? I could attempt this myself as long as you could show me what to do? The thread doesn't really show how you connected the actuator to the mechanism
For the front, i noticed he took out the aluminium cover without any difficulties and placed the actuator side-by-side with the stock faulty actuator. Then close the aluminium cover using steel rivet (dont know how to call it), easy task. Does not require any inner part trimming of the plastic door panel. On the other side, if the actuator is placed outside of the aluminium part which is way below (7 o'clock) position, the rod is not long enough and rod bending is required to connect it to the door lock. Troublesome for the mechanic i guess from the way i suggested to them after reading from the posts above.
For the rear, it is the headache part where the actuator must be placed nicely as it requires a stronger push/pull of the door lock. it is different than the front because the rod goes left/right instead of up/down like the front door. This actuator is placed outside of the aluminium cover by screwing against the aluminium cover. you will be able to find the right spot once u have adjusted the correct position.
(This info is for rear door issue if encountered)
All-in-all, the cost of doing is USD 90 (both front and rear passenger door)
Hello, sorry to reply on an old thread. I'm trying to do this to the rear door. The door was stuck in locked position so with the door locked i have removed the door card and the metal cover. I have a replacement actuator and lock to fit but I can't see how I can take the existing one out without having the door unlocked. I also purchased the aftermarket actuator thinking i can piggy back onto the current existing one to at least unlock the door. Can you please help me? I have tried pulling all the cables, from the handle, locking pin and interior handle and none will unlock the door latch. The door locking pin is also not actually moving up or down. thanks in advance
When my actuator jammed in the locked position I gave it a thump (with the MB manual!) whilst pressing the unlock button. It worked for me !
Originally Posted by s912
Hello, sorry to reply on an old thread. I'm trying to do this to the rear door. The door was stuck in locked position so with the door locked i have removed the door card and the metal cover. I have a replacement actuator and lock to fit but I can't see how I can take the existing one out without having the door unlocked. I also purchased the aftermarket actuator thinking i can piggy back onto the current existing one to at least unlock the door. Can you please help me? I have tried pulling all the cables, from the handle, locking pin and interior handle and none will unlock the door latch. The door locking pin is also not actually moving up or down. thanks in advance
Did this aftermarket actuator fix in Oct. 2018. Worked fine (besides being louder than OEM) until now, but has failed. Came in a pack of 2, but I'm opting now to install an OEM replacement.
This DIY still helps to understand what is required to get to the point of removing the aluminum inner panel. From here it takes removing the window, drilling the appropriate rivets, etc...
Yes the after market actuator did work and (fingers crossed) still works. You don't have to remove the inner aluminium panel. I posted a series of diagrams that illustrate the positioning of the actuator on the outside of the aluminium panel. Just go back through the thread and look for the photos marked up with coloured lines and measurements.
Hi. I am a new member. Ive owned a 2009 W204 C180 Blueeffciency ( I live in the UK). The door Im talking about has gradually kind of failed on me to the point I was still able to open from inside on few occasions. Now has ceased completely( I assume the door actuator and the iCarsoft diagnostic tool confirmed as well) and it doesnt unlock from outside or inside. Since I cant open the door at all, after reading few forums, I have decided today and removed the inner lining around the door and managed to pull the door card out. I have already bought 2 wire regular actuators lile those used in this thread, now being a rear door, I dont understand WHERE should I place it after wiring it in a similar way ( the green and blue wires to the grey/black and grey/blue of the original actuator), in order to be able to pull and push???
Please Help! Thank you.
Did you manage to sort this, I've just done my rear door and I have pictures of needed.
Did you manage to sort this, I've just done my rear door and I have pictures of needed.
I would highly appreciate details of how you done the wiring between the universal actuator & the MB loom, I can see what you done but I am not sure about the colours, thanks
Mercedes w204 locked door mechanism. My actuator failed with door closed and locked. After months of searching how to gain access to my locked door, i thought sod it, it’s time to get serious.
My only real option was to try and gain access to the solenoid. So these are the steps i took. The photos are from after, with the door off. Overall it took just over 4 hours.
The longest part was finding a replacement door with the correct paint colour it was simply waiting game on eBay. I paid £114 including delivery in the end for a pretty much immaculate door.
One tip is that if you find one, click the watch button and after a couple of days you may get a discount notification. Mine was £140 initially.
So the first step is to get the door card off with the door locked shut. It’s easier than you imagine. The card has plenty of give in it. Start where the window is and pry it open there. You’ll need some airbags or long screwdrivers to reach the clips.
There are plenty of photos on the web showing their location. With a but of time and patience it will come off in one peace.
The next step is to remove the aluminium plate. Unscrew and unclip controller and window winder motor. EVERYTHING is riveted to this, the lock, the window mechanism etc.
Some of the rivets can be chiselled off, some had to be drilled off. Once thats done the plate can be pulled off after carefully feeding the various wires and cables off of it.
In the top left is the locking mechanism. It has various plastic covers in place. I started here and pulled them off with clippers, pliers and chisels. This gives you access to the mechanism.
From the photo you’ll see the worm gear motor. In my case i unclipped the cable to it, popped it out and wound the cog which it was connected to. I pulled the cable and the door opened.
After that it was straightforward to remove and replace the door, reconnect the cables etc, refit the door card with new clips.
10-10-2017, 10:21 PM
