2009 C350 Maintenance Questions
#1
2009 C350 Maintenance Questions
I bought my car certified preowned with 56,000 miles. Car has 81,000 miles
1. The crankshaft valve seal is leaking. Is this normal for the mileage?
2. Tech says only the pads were replaced and he says the rotors should have been done at the same time.
Is this correct or typical dealership cutting corners?
1. The crankshaft valve seal is leaking. Is this normal for the mileage?
2. Tech says only the pads were replaced and he says the rotors should have been done at the same time.
Is this correct or typical dealership cutting corners?
#2
I bought my car certified preowned with 56,000 miles. Car has 81,000 miles
1. The crankshaft valve seal is leaking. Is this normal for the mileage?
2. Tech says only the pads were replaced and he says the rotors should have been done at the same time.
Is this correct or typical dealership cutting corners?
1. The crankshaft valve seal is leaking. Is this normal for the mileage?
2. Tech says only the pads were replaced and he says the rotors should have been done at the same time.
Is this correct or typical dealership cutting corners?
Most would replace rotors at same time as pads.if there is significant lip on rotor, but pad is new - that would give you clue rotor is worn. But if there are no braking issues (noise, judder etc.) and rotor thickness is within spec - I would let it run like that and just do both rotors and pads next time it is due.
#3
Seal at back of motor ? I think this is an easy diy - and yes - it does happen on these motors. Should be cheap fix at indie if you can't diy
Most would replace rotors at same time as pads.if there is significant lip on rotor, but pad is new - that would give you clue rotor is worn. But if there are no braking issues (noise, judder etc.) and rotor thickness is within spec - I would let it run like that and just do both rotors and pads next time it is due.
Most would replace rotors at same time as pads.if there is significant lip on rotor, but pad is new - that would give you clue rotor is worn. But if there are no braking issues (noise, judder etc.) and rotor thickness is within spec - I would let it run like that and just do both rotors and pads next time it is due.
Thanks for your reply. I apologize for lack of specificity. I was referring to the Crankcase Vent Valve Oil Separator pics attached. This looks pretty straightforward to replace. An Easy DIY....
#4
The one you are replacing has screws, if I remember right, Torx 30 or Torx 20. Some were easy to access, one was a in very tight space and my tool did not fit. Highly recommend picking up an Allen key with torx head. I ended up just using normal Allen keys with a hex head, it fit but could possibly slip and strip. Luckily these were not torqued too tight.
#5
Same car, similar mileage 75k miles. Had the wife go for an oil change and they told her the exact same thing. Oil separator leak and front brakes. I haven't taken a look at the leak, but I did replace all of the crankshaft plastic caps on the back of the heads a month ago as all 3 were leaking. It's either a pretty common issue, or they have a script of things to tell customers with that mileage.
One thing if you don't fix the oil leak though, is mine actually fouled out my Oxygen sensor on the driver's side, so had to replace it.
The brakes, I'll do when the sensor goes off as I've had a set of Akebonos sitting in the parts bin for the last 40k miles. I never expect front pads to last that long, but at this point might as well do the rotors as they're most likely below the recommended thickness.
One thing if you don't fix the oil leak though, is mine actually fouled out my Oxygen sensor on the driver's side, so had to replace it.
The brakes, I'll do when the sensor goes off as I've had a set of Akebonos sitting in the parts bin for the last 40k miles. I never expect front pads to last that long, but at this point might as well do the rotors as they're most likely below the recommended thickness.
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,714
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From: 1 hours drive north of Sydney Australia
2007 W204 220CDI Classic Sedan
FYI :My disc original thicknesses & wear limits. :-
Front - Ventilated :-
Original = 28 mm
Minimum before repair = 26.5mm
Minimum limit = 26mm
Max runout = 0.12mm
Rear- Solid.
Original = 10 mm.
Minimum before repair =8.8mm
Minimum limit =8.3mm
Maximum disc runout =0.15mm.
Front - Ventilated :-
Original = 28 mm
Minimum before repair = 26.5mm
Minimum limit = 26mm
Max runout = 0.12mm
Rear- Solid.
Original = 10 mm.
Minimum before repair =8.8mm
Minimum limit =8.3mm
Maximum disc runout =0.15mm.
#7
Same car, similar mileage 75k miles. Had the wife go for an oil change and they told her the exact same thing. Oil separator leak and front brakes. I haven't taken a look at the leak, but I did replace all of the crankshaft plastic caps on the back of the heads a month ago as all 3 were leaking. It's either a pretty common issue, or they have a script of things to tell customers with that mileage.
One thing if you don't fix the oil leak though, is mine actually fouled out my Oxygen sensor on the driver's side, so had to replace it.
The brakes, I'll do when the sensor goes off as I've had a set of Akebonos sitting in the parts bin for the last 40k miles. I never expect front pads to last that long, but at this point might as well do the rotors as they're most likely below the recommended thickness.
One thing if you don't fix the oil leak though, is mine actually fouled out my Oxygen sensor on the driver's side, so had to replace it.
The brakes, I'll do when the sensor goes off as I've had a set of Akebonos sitting in the parts bin for the last 40k miles. I never expect front pads to last that long, but at this point might as well do the rotors as they're most likely below the recommended thickness.