When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hope someone can help. I feel uneasy even turning off the engine to put in gas now.
Thanks
As the ESL relies upon a small 12v brushed motor to lock and unlock the steering lock, I suppose it is quite possible for a failing battery to struggle to spin a worn out motor. Replacing the battery might have been enough to keep the ESL motor working for a bit longer. You're probably reaching the stage where the motor is close to failing completely - I'd strongly suggest you find someone who can take it out while the steering is still unlocked, then replace the motor...
Just wanted to share my experience and hopefully help future readers. The ESL failed in my 2009 C300 at 100k km. It failed in the locked position but I was able to get it to unlock by tapping on the ESL with a hammer while jiggling the steering wheel and cycling the key. Once unlocked, you can drive the vehicle somewhere more suitable for repair. Fortunately my ESL failed in my garage so I disconnected the negative terminal on the battery to prevent the ESL from locking again and explored my options.
I opted to have an emulator programmed by charles.soori in ON (PM him for details). In order to have this done, I had to remove my EIS and send it, along with my key, to him for programming.
1. Remove the airbag and steering wheel - you need a helper to turn the steering wheel CW while you use a breaker bar on the wheel's 10mm hex bolt
2. Remove column switch assembly - don't mess around with the clock spring
3. Remove instrument cluster trim
4. Remove the EIS, which requires a bit of finesse. Probably easier to do this after lowering the steering column
5. Lower the steering column and remove the ESL. Although not required since my ESL was unlocked, I decided to removed it while I was in there
It took about 1.5 hrs to remove both the EIS and ESL. It's not too difficult if you have the tools and a flexible body. A 1/4" drive ratchet was helpful in the small space.
I will follow up once I receive and install the emulator from Charles.
Following up on my post above, I received the bypass emulator today and everything works as intended. Charles programmed and shipped the emulator the same day he received it. He also used expedited shipping which was much appreciated (two days).
Reinstallation is the reverse of removal, except it is easier to install the EIS with the steering column still loose. In hindsight, I should've lowered the steering column prior to removing the EIS. I loosened the ESL wiring so that the bypass module now sits next to the OBD hardness on the lower dash panel for better accessibility.
All in all, an ESL failure can be a very simple fix as long as you can get the ESL to unlock. If your ESL hasn't failed yet, I would consider replacing it with a bypass emulator as a preventative fix.
Big thanks to Charles for a cheap and future-proof fix!
Good day to whomever may be reading this! If my ESL was in the locked position and I drilled a hole on the side of the ESL to move the gear that allows it to be removed from the steering column, does that mean when I put it back together, it will need to be put back into the locked position? Or do I install it in the unlocked position? I wouldn’t want to create a fault in the NEC Chip. Hope someone can help, thank you!
Good day to whomever may be reading this! If my ESL was in the locked position and I drilled a hole on the side of the ESL to move the gear that allows it to be removed from the steering column, does that mean when I put it back together, it will need to be put back into the locked position? Or do I install it in the unlocked position? I wouldn’t want to create a fault in the NEC Chip. Hope someone can help, thank you!
I think it depends on if the power is disconnected in the mid position.
I think it depends on if the power is disconnected in the mid position.
Thank you for the quick reply! From all the information that was gathered, the NEC Chip fault will usually only occur if power was cut or if it failed halfway between the lock and unlocked position? So I should be fine reinstalling it back after replacing the motor in either lock or unlocked position? I’m a little slow, my apologies...hahaa.
This entire forum has been life-saving. No way I could of afford to fix this at the dealership.
Quick question: Is there any downside to drilling a hole into the ESL to move the gear to an unlock position? I just want to make sure it wouldn't fry the chip or any of the electronics once the motor has been replaced and everything has been put back together.
If power was cut IN the failed mid position. If it is moved to full lock or full unlock prior to disconnecting power you should be good to go
Is there any way to find out if the power had failed in mid position or full locked? I got back into my car and it just didn't start so i can't remember if it made any noise initially or not.
Edit: I thought it through and it wouldn't matter. I should be able to tell if it is locked or mid fail lock by the fact if I can press the bolt in at all or not. But either way I should return the whole thing back to the locked position because if it was fully locked or mid lock it would still be safer to put it back in the locked position.
Problem: If the lock had failed in full lock and I mess up and don't get it to the full locked position (like a bit off) would that cause the chip to fail? I hope that makes sense. Basically if I keep turning the gear and it gets to the locked position, if I accidentally keep spinning it would that break the gear or would it stop spinning once it is back in the locked position so I would know to stop?
Last edited by Logan_Volcan; 06-26-2019 at 08:58 PM.
Just wanted to say thanks to the OP and all that contributed. To give back here are some pictures.
Also wanted to share a tip for a catastrophic closed failure like mine. No amount of "shocking" the mechanism via unlocking the steering column and slamming it up/down/forward/back would restart the ESL. Tried to reach the ESL via long extensions to tap it alive but nothing, even while connected to a charger. Then I realized I could slam it in both directions of the turn, effectively delivering a direct shock to the ESL mechanism. Alas it unlocked and the rest is history.
Failed ESL motor. It even LOOKS cheap. 2008 C300 SA build with 144k miles, no warning prior to failure.
Closer look at the board and cover.
Test fit with new motor. I ultimately opted to take it down to the last part to give it a good cleaning and appropriate lubrication.
Microswitches in proper position. You may need something long and non-metallic to depress the microswitches as they slide into proper position.
I wanted to test the setup before re-assembly. I figured it was feasible for the ESL to lock and not-unlock, effectively shooting myself in the foot. Here's how you can connect everything without buttoning it back up.
Thanks you for this thread. I was able to get my car started with a hammer to the esl after several tries. Banging any where else or rocking the steering didn't work for me. Even tried a new battery. Jump start. Car was stuck at a park for 3 days. Drove it home and left the key on the ON position and disconnected the negative lead on the battery. Went through all the procedure except removing the column. I was able to get the esl out since it was unlocked. Replaced my motor and now all is good. Had a hell of a time removing the pins though. I dremmeled a bigger hole on 1 since I couldnt get the pin out. Had to redo it 3x though cause the bolt would not go in enough. Thanks to this picture, I realized that the black arm was in the way of the bolt. I had to line it up to the outer giude. Put every thing together and the car started!
Many thanks to all that have made contributions to this thread. Through your efforts I am sure that were I and my Brunhilde at home I would be able to replace the damned ESL device ( In truth I would probably just zip tie it to the column and throw its replacement in the first aid kit so that its next failure would not strand me). As it is I am several hours and hundreds of miles from home with my Beloved in the hands of the local Mercedes dealership. In my hours of reading thru these forums I seem to remember the mention of a campaign by Mercedes specific to this issue yet now I can not find that information. I am not sure but it may be helpful when the final tabulation of this event comes due. Any help with this will be greatly appreciated. Mine is a 2011 C300 W204 RWD with 97K
ESL LOCKED :-( So after reading lots of the thread I pulled the steering column and attempted the drill a hole to gain access to the gear to release the bolt. FAILED :-( can anyone help me answer this. So the gear will only turn either way maybe 5 clicks most and stops??? why wont it keep turning? The bolt is still locked
Can anyone answer this and tell me what to do now?
ESL LOCKED :-( So after reading lots of the thread I pulled the steering column and attempted the drill a hole to gain access to the gear to release the bolt. FAILED :-( can anyone help me answer this. So the gear will only turn either way maybe 5 clicks most and stops??? why wont it keep turning? The bolt is still locked
Can anyone answer this and tell me what to do now?
Maybe because it stopped midway (not fully locked) when it failed? Have you tried releasing the bolt?
the Bolt is stuck locked. I kept pushing it every click it turned but since it only will turn maybe 5 clicks most it wont release :-( I even took a hammer to it lol not hard couple love taps lol
The larger hole was my first hole but it was to far below the tiny gears. So I did a second hole more up top. Both ended with same result NOTHING
Last edited by chadzilla1; 09-17-2019 at 10:30 PM.
Reason: added more info and pic
Wait, why are you drilling there? All the guides I’ve seen have the hole coming through the side. Not sure what leverage you’re gonna get from that angle?
Now, if you look downward into the hole with a light, you can see the white plastic gear that runs the lock
We are going to use a small pocket screwdriver to turn the gear and raise the lock mechanism. As you are looking at the lock from the front you want to rotate the gear clockwise to unlock. You can watch the lock on the bottom to confirm you are going the right way. There are stops in each direction so don't worry about going too far.
my car is parked at my buddies house since I live in a condo and cant work on the car. So I had no access to this site since I forgot what the URL was. So looking on Youtube I saw a couple videos as to drilling the hole there and they both unlocked it that way. **** I can go back there tomorrow and drill a 3rd hole in the side
Ok so today I spent 3 hrs trying to get my ESL off after 3 hrs yesterday getting off the steering column due to having to go to Home Depot and Auto Zone to get right tools since I never did find a thread that had it correct. I'll post those tool soon so know one has to waist money and time like I had to.
I saw a video that had a guy drill a hole on the front so I tried that but that didnt work for me. I could only get the gear to move 6 clicks and would not move more then that either direction. I didnt drill deep and mess up the gear if you are wanting to say that.
I was then told I needed to drill on the side for better leverage to move the gear. Well I tried that too and same result Failed to move it and unlock the ESL
I think just started drilling holes to get more access but at this point the gear now is ruined from trying to move the gear when it was stuck and the plastic gear couldnt take it.
At the end I had to cut the bolt. I thought after cutting the bolt it would just come out like the videos I saw. NOPE !!!!!! It took me an hour longer drilling a hole down the center of the bolt trying my hardest to get the ESL to come off.
SO AGGRAVATING !!!
Now the ESL is beyond using with all the holes and cut bolt. Also the tiny 4 screws that come off with the specialty screwdriver all those stripped too and still cant take the ESL apart. I watched a video to make sure I was turning the right way before trying to remove those 4 tiny screws. But all of them are now stripped. So this ESL is now just a pile of junk and I cant use the motor I bought and least expensive method of repair. Now I have to buy an Emulator.
Tried this DID NOT WORK Put second hole to see if I could get better angle. DID NOT WORK
Tried more holes up front still wouldnt click more then 6 times then stuck in either direction.
Now Im at total frustration and just want this damn thing off.
finally I had to go buy yet another tool to cut this off.
As I found out even cutting the bolt off flush it still wouldnt come out. So I had to drill a massive hole down the center of the bolt
as you can see how far I drilled down. I was taking a hammer at this point and screw driver and drilling the center for 1 hr. Finally got the ESL out
Those little screws on the side of the ESL also wont come out, I watched a couple videos to make sure I was going the right direction and they all are now stripped, I even have the specialty screwdriver and didnt work. I thought about that taking my board and just replacing it with another ESL so the info was the same. But I still cant even split it. This ESL has been a major pain in my ***. Im calling around to find someone to program one of those Emulators now. I was so hopeful of it working and coming out easy but NOPE.
Ok so yesterday after calling 15 mobile locksmiths and everyone telling me 350 plus I need to get my own emulator I found a guy that did it all for 225 with emulator :-) its not the emulator that looks like the ESL but hey it turns my car on now :-)
only problem I have now :-( is the steering column and the u-joint wont go back together. I spent 3 hrs today :-( Stupid the shaft is metal and the u-joint is aluminum and the little ridges are exceptable to being ruined. Why didnt MBZ design this with a large key slot so you know for 100% how they go together. I turned and turned and turned and turned the steering shaft and damn thing wont go back together. Now the ridges are not perfect since its Metal and Aluminum. Now I have to either find a shop to do it or buy another one on ebay.
Metal and Aluminum dont mix. I made marks to line up what I thought would be how it went. I turned and turned and turned and no go. And no the bolt is not on pinching it together. Now I dont know if I need to buy another one on ebay or find a shop and pay them or take a hammer to it and put it on
05-25-2019, 12:13 AM
