Eyebrow light wire snapped
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Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 39
Likes: 1
2009 C300 Sport, 2017 E300 Sport
Eyebrow light wire snapped
Hello everyone,
I have a 2009 c300 preface lift with the eyelid lights. About a week ago there was a message that my driver side far right eyebrow bulb went out, so I went ahead and ordered the original bulb for it so it will match the other bulbs.
I've replaced these bulbs before successfully so this would make it round two for this particular bulb, to make a long story short, I pulled on the little loop to pull the bulb assembly out of the socket and one of the wires detached from the connector on the bulb assembly.
How much would a repair like this set me back at the dealer? Has anyone else had an issue like this?
I'll post a picture in a little bit.
I have a 2009 c300 preface lift with the eyelid lights. About a week ago there was a message that my driver side far right eyebrow bulb went out, so I went ahead and ordered the original bulb for it so it will match the other bulbs.
I've replaced these bulbs before successfully so this would make it round two for this particular bulb, to make a long story short, I pulled on the little loop to pull the bulb assembly out of the socket and one of the wires detached from the connector on the bulb assembly.
How much would a repair like this set me back at the dealer? Has anyone else had an issue like this?
I'll post a picture in a little bit.
Last edited by MBTX27; Nov 5, 2016 at 08:09 PM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 39
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2009 C300 Sport, 2017 E300 Sport
Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 75
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From: Northernmost Capital of the Caribbean
2010 Mercedes-Benz C300 Sport, Auto, P02, 320, 067, 104, 218, 413, 786, 889
Just got a quote back from the dealer, they wanna replace the whole headlamp for $1200 
Slide a piece shrink wrap the total length of the exposed copper wires over either end of the broken lead. Fray the individual strands out from ends of the leads and then twist them together inline. Do not twist them standing like youre going to put a wire nut on them. Twist them together along the line so that you can slide the shrink wrap over the repair when your done. Solder the exposed copper. Dont leave any part of the copper wires exposed to the air. Every surface should be covered with solder. Wait till it cools then slide the shrink wrap over the repair and put some heat to it.
Crack a cold one and take your wife out for dinner. You just saved $1200. Explain to her your accomplishment and enjoy your after-dinner BJ.
Last edited by nola000; Nov 9, 2016 at 10:01 PM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 39
Likes: 1
2009 C300 Sport, 2017 E300 Sport
Heeellll to the muthafuuckin no. F that noise, son.
Slide a piece shrink wrap the total length of the exposed copper wires over either end of the broken lead. Fray the individual strands out from ends of the leads and then twist them together inline. Do not twist them standing like youre going to put a wire nut on them. Twist them together along the line so that you can slide the shrink wrap over the repair when your done. Solder the exposed copper. Dont leave any part of the copper wires exposed to the air. Every surface should be covered with solder. Wait till it cools then slide the shrink wrap over the repair and put some heat to it.
Crack a cold one and take your wife out for dinner. You just saved $1200. Explain to her your accomplishment and enjoy your after-dinner BJ.
Slide a piece shrink wrap the total length of the exposed copper wires over either end of the broken lead. Fray the individual strands out from ends of the leads and then twist them together inline. Do not twist them standing like youre going to put a wire nut on them. Twist them together along the line so that you can slide the shrink wrap over the repair when your done. Solder the exposed copper. Dont leave any part of the copper wires exposed to the air. Every surface should be covered with solder. Wait till it cools then slide the shrink wrap over the repair and put some heat to it.
Crack a cold one and take your wife out for dinner. You just saved $1200. Explain to her your accomplishment and enjoy your after-dinner BJ.
Alright so I declined them changing the headlight. I should be getting it by Saturday so by then I'll post up a video to show you exactly how it looks.
So what you're telling me is that I can solder the copper end directly on the female connector of the socket?
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Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Northernmost Capital of the Caribbean
2010 Mercedes-Benz C300 Sport, Auto, P02, 320, 067, 104, 218, 413, 786, 889
So what you're telling me is that I can solder the copper end directly on the female connector of the socket?
The picture you posted shows two bare leads(wires with the insulation stripped back). Dont try to solder the wire into the connector.
Just solder the two bare copper wires together. 
BTW, dont use that crappy shrink wrap you get at the hardware store or auto parts place. That stuff is junk.
Go to a marine supply store like West Marine and the good stuff. Ancor brand, for example.
NVM. Just looked at your picture again. So that picture is old Im guessing and you pulled the lead that was on the terminal(connector) out of the housing. If thats the case you need to see if you can release the terminal from the housing(plug/connector). Some you can and some you cant. If you can release it then use a small sharp pic to open up the crimp, remove the remaining copper wires remnants and either bend the terminal tabs back over the wire again or throw a dab of solder on the terminal and the wire and then solder them together. Reinsert the terminal in the plug housing/connector.
If its the type of connector thats molded around the terminal/wire then youre gonna have to get creative.
Let me know which type it is.
Last edited by nola000; Nov 10, 2016 at 09:54 PM.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 39
Likes: 1
2009 C300 Sport, 2017 E300 Sport
Now wait a minute.
The picture you posted shows two bare leads(wires with the insulation stripped back). Dont try to solder the wire into the connector.Just solder the two bare copper wires together.
BTW, dont use that crappy shrink wrap you get at the hardware store or auto parts place. That stuff is junk.
Go to a marine supply store like West Marine and the good stuff. Ancor brand, for example.
NVM. Just looked at your picture again. So that picture is old Im guessing and you pulled the lead that was on the terminal(connector) out of the housing. If thats the case you need to see if you can release the terminal from the housing(plug/connector). Some you can and some you cant. If you can release it then use a small sharp pic to open up the crimp, remove the remaining copper wires remnants and either bend the terminal tabs back over the wire again or throw a dab of solder on the terminal and the wire and then solder them together. Reinsert the terminal in the plug housing/connector.
If its the type of connector thats molded around the terminal/wire then youre gonna have to get creative.
Let me know which type it is.
The picture you posted shows two bare leads(wires with the insulation stripped back). Dont try to solder the wire into the connector.
Just solder the two bare copper wires together. BTW, dont use that crappy shrink wrap you get at the hardware store or auto parts place. That stuff is junk.
Go to a marine supply store like West Marine and the good stuff. Ancor brand, for example.
NVM. Just looked at your picture again. So that picture is old Im guessing and you pulled the lead that was on the terminal(connector) out of the housing. If thats the case you need to see if you can release the terminal from the housing(plug/connector). Some you can and some you cant. If you can release it then use a small sharp pic to open up the crimp, remove the remaining copper wires remnants and either bend the terminal tabs back over the wire again or throw a dab of solder on the terminal and the wire and then solder them together. Reinsert the terminal in the plug housing/connector.
If its the type of connector thats molded around the terminal/wire then youre gonna have to get creative.
Let me know which type it is.
So I got the car back today and I took a look at it, the terminal isn't the one that you can release out of the housing. I think I'm just gonna leave it the way it is for now until I get myself a new daily driver. I've spent way too much on this car for how old it is (8 years old). Maybe ill buy new headlights for both sides on mbpartsonline and have someone install them together for well under the dealer's price for one headlight + labor.
Now lemme ask you this, is there anyway for me to clear the lamp warning permanently from the dash?
Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 75
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From: Northernmost Capital of the Caribbean
2010 Mercedes-Benz C300 Sport, Auto, P02, 320, 067, 104, 218, 413, 786, 889
Dont give up just yet. Its an easy fix you just have to be persistent like the warning message on your dash is going to be. 
If you have a cheap soldering iron with a funky tip then plunge the tip into the plastic housing and melt out some of the plastic until you can clearly see the broken wire lead. Tin the broken lead on the harness and then stick it in the hole on the plug that you widened out. Now heat the solder again and fill the hole with solder until it pools up and youre sure you got a good connection. Dont worry about shrink wrap in this as solder doesnt tarnish. Just make sure there isnt any exposed copper. If there is, slap some solder on it.
That should do it.
If you have a cheap soldering iron with a funky tip then plunge the tip into the plastic housing and melt out some of the plastic until you can clearly see the broken wire lead. Tin the broken lead on the harness and then stick it in the hole on the plug that you widened out. Now heat the solder again and fill the hole with solder until it pools up and youre sure you got a good connection. Dont worry about shrink wrap in this as solder doesnt tarnish. Just make sure there isnt any exposed copper. If there is, slap some solder on it.
That should do it.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 39
Likes: 1
2009 C300 Sport, 2017 E300 Sport
Fair warning to people using those LEDs in the eyebrows, I can gaurantee you that they damage the wiring on the connector, I've been using them for about a year and was constantly swapping them out until I just went with the regular bulbs and this all happened.
Last edited by MBTX27; Nov 12, 2016 at 11:41 PM.
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From: Ontario, Canada
2009 C63 AMG, 2010 C250 4Matic Sport
I'm not sure it's to do with LEDs - even with traditional bulbs, the heat buildup in that area is insane and causes the plastic to become brittle and will eventually break. Either the plastic connector will break, or the actual mount socket will - two out of four are broken in my fathers 204 and he's only had the standard bulbs in them.
Last edited by Funkwagen; Nov 15, 2016 at 08:14 PM.
Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
From: Northernmost Capital of the Caribbean
2010 Mercedes-Benz C300 Sport, Auto, P02, 320, 067, 104, 218, 413, 786, 889
I'm not sure it's to do with LEDs - even with traditional bulbs, the heat buildup in that area is insane and causes the plastic to become brittle and will eventually break. Either the plastic connected will break or the actual mount socket will, two out of four are broken in my fathers 204 and he's only had the standard bulbs in them.
