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Do you experience abnormally dramatic vibration through the seat, steering wheel and across the cabin when your C-Class is in gear, while stopped with the brakes applied? Does this vibration go away/substantially subside if you place the car in neutral or park? And is it smooth as silk once you apply the accelerator and raise the RPM?
Well, let me share MY SOLUTION.
I purchased my 2010 C350 4Matic from it's first owner last fall with 105,000km, and have since put over 10,000km on it myself. After many months of growing frustration with my car, and countless hours of reading forums of others sharing the same symptoms, yet unable to find a clear solution, I was ready to sell the car. Until...
My mechanic put my car up on the hoist, first checking the rear (transmission) mount. He removed the bolts and mount altogether, and had his foreman sit in the cabin with the car running and in gear. The lack of support from this mount did not seem to alter the symptoms whatsoever, and the mount did not appear cracked or damaged. He re-installed and carried on.
Next, he went to the front of the car. With his jack placed under the oil pan, he began lifting the entire weight of the engine off of the front two mounts. And again, with his foreman sitting in the cabin, the car was placed in and out of gear. VOILA, the symptoms had instantly vanished and surely - once the jack was lowered again - the symptoms returned. This way he was able to isolate that the vibration I was experiencing was the result of aged motor mounts. Although they didn't looked cracked, damaged, or leaking from the outside - clearly the age of the car and the mileage caused them to compress just enough to cause the vibration.
With any 4Matic, replacing the two front hydraulic motor mounts is a labour-intensive job. Expect even a competent mechanic shop to quote you 8-9 hours labour + parts. Living in western Canada, my total altogether came to $1,100 at a private shop. That being said, it is worth EVERY PENNY. The difference is night and day, so drastic that I can hardly tell the car is running now - even in gear.
For all of you out there sharing the frustration, I hope this helps point you in the right direction!
I replaced the transmission mount at 40k miles and it eased the vibrations a lot, so considering how cheap it is ($15) and how easily it can be replaced, I'd advice anyone with this problem to try replacing the transmission mount first. If it doesn't solve the problem, then you can replace the engine mounts.
Transmission mount eased the vibrations and made them barely noticeable but I guess in 1 year I'll have to replace the engine mounts as well.
I feel a very minor vibration when the car is in drive and stopped. My question for people here is...
As per the OP, how dramatic is dramatic? For me, I mean, yeah, it's SLIGHTLY better in neutral...but we're talking 2 shades of grey here. My car is still in warranty, so if I can get something fixed...I will, lol.
I got both my mounts for 200$, Lemforder are great replacement parts. These mounts are not hydraulic so dont get scammed by mechanics and aren't terrible to do, took me 2 hours for both side, 2 jacks and a friends.
I wonder how difficult it is to do on a 4 matic. 8-9 hours seems a lot but maybe not.
I am going to do my own transmission mount and flex disc replacement this summer but doing engine mounts maybe too much of a pain to do myself when the time comes.
I wonder how difficult it is to do on a 4 matic. 8-9 hours seems a lot but maybe not.
I am going to do my own transmission mount and flex disc replacement this summer but doing engine mounts maybe too much of a pain to do myself when the time comes.
Trans and flex disk can be done in less then 30mins, the mounts on the other hand are about 2 hours but that's with an engine hoist, i wouldn't really try it without one, hard part is just getting the bolts out since you are working blind, still an easier job then on a v8 with hydraulic mounts.
Trans and flex disk can be done in less then 30mins, the mounts on the other hand are about 2 hours but that's with an engine hoist, i wouldn't really try it without one, hard part is just getting the bolts out since you are working blind, still an easier job then on a v8 with hydraulic mounts.
Did you remove your exhaust to change the flex discs and trans mount? I'll have to remove one side of my exhaust I think. I want to service the driveshaft also since I am under there. Change the support bearing and drive shaft boot and bushings also so one side if not the whole exhaust would have to come off..
Did you remove your exhaust to change the flex discs and trans mount? I'll have to remove one side of my exhaust I think. I want to service the driveshaft also since I am under there. Change the support bearing and drive shaft boot and bushings also so one side if not the whole exhaust would have to come off..
The exhaust shouldn't get in your way for the front flex disk and transmission mount, even for the rear flex disk it, the exhaust shouldn't be in the way. Now the the carrier bearing, you might have to drop the exhaust, only the back part of it which is ver easy to do, just loosen the flanges close to the transmission, put some penetrating fluid on the flange bolts and its you feel like they are going to snap, use heat, a MAP torch works great for the DIY'er.
The exhaust shouldn't get in your way for the front flex disk and transmission mount, even for the rear flex disk it, the exhaust shouldn't be in the way. Now the the carrier bearing, you might have to drop the exhaust, only the back part of it which is ver easy to do, just loosen the flanges close to the transmission, put some penetrating fluid on the flange bolts and its you feel like they are going to snap, use heat, a MAP torch works great for the DIY'er.
Thanks. My exhaust is new SS and I don't winter drive it so nothing should be seized. I can loosen or remove the back portion if needed.
I was hoping I could get away with not having to but we'll see. I am just buying parts throughout the winter and will tackle the flex discs, tranny mount and drive shaft bearing and carrier during the summer. Mine is a 4-matic so my trans mount is a lot larger than a rear wheel drive variant.
I want to actually remove the drive shaft and replace the end bushings also since I am in there. I hope those are not hard to change or stubborn to remove.
[QUOTE=Colin G;7376189]Thanks. My exhaust is new SS and I don't winter drive it so nothing should be seized. I can loosen or remove the back portion if needed.
I was hoping I could get away with not having to but we'll see. I am just buying parts throughout the winter and will tackle the flex discs, tranny mount and drive shaft bearing and carrier during the summer. Mine is a 4-matic so my trans mount is a lot larger than a rear wheel drive variant.
I want to actually remove the drive shaft and replace the end bushings also since I am in there. I hope those are not hard to change or stubborn to remove.[/QUOTE
The transmission mount is very easy to do, I also have a the 4matic. Honestly I winter my car and its about to hit 250k and the driveshaft bearing are still fine when I checked them at 230k. The mount I did at 180k and it was still ok, no cracks. My flex shield are stick stock at 250k and they weren't cracked when I checked them but I will be changing those this summer, not that its vibrating or anything, if you car is low mileage and the bearings and flexplate still looks good I would leave it.
PLEASE HELP !!! I have a 2003 ml350 and I'm feeling vibrations while stopped with the car in gear. I just had all spark plugs and wires replaced, all new vacuum lines, flushed and replaced transmission fluid, replaced both motor mounts and transmission mount, and replaced cerpetine belt and belt tensioner. The motor tachometer never moves it's idling perfect but still vibrates when in gear. While in park or neutral there is no vibration super smooth. I'm running out of ideas and need some much needed help.
Trans and flex disk can be done in less then 30mins, the mounts on the other hand are about 2 hours but that's with an engine hoist, i wouldn't really try it without one, hard part is just getting the bolts out since you are working blind, still an easier job then on a v8 with hydraulic mounts.
What's the trick to replacing the motor mounts in the w204 v6 4matic? I hear you need to remove the catalytic converters? Is that really the case or can you just lift the engine and squeeze them out? or remove the AC compressor and sueeze it out? The WIS has you removing the catalytic converters, was wondering if that really is ncessary?
What's the trick to replacing the motor mounts in the w204 v6 4matic? I hear you need to remove the catalytic converters? Is that really the case or can you just lift the engine and squeeze them out? or remove the AC compressor and sueeze it out? The WIS has you removing the catalytic converters, was wondering if that really is ncessary?
Cheers KP
I'm not sure but they do look like a pain to replace them. I'm glad mine, with over 250k, are still solid without any movement. Replace the transmission mount so there is less strain on the engine mount and they will last longer.
Hello for the shaking when stops the solution is the Shaft that goes throw the oil pan there's a shaft that connect with driver axle, that shaft whith a bering conect to the gearbox and goes throw the oil pan then to the axle... My opinion bearing strong steel sits in aluminum pan and in time start to make space .... I change front axle and shaft still shakes but less ,but to be like new need to change also the pan. This is the difference between 2wd and 4wd 4matic ,that's why I never had issues on w221 2wd On the second picture 7 and 8 goes throw first picture,so in my opinion to resolve this issue less that 200 usd fist check this don't make my mistake changing engine mounts and all that I read on different forums because you could face a 2000 usd mistake
Hello for the shaking when stops the solution is the Shaft that goes throw the oil pan there's a shaft that connect with driver axle, that shaft whith a bering conect to the gearbox and goes throw the oil pan then to the axle... My opinion bearing strong steel sits in aluminum pan and in time start to make space .... I change front axle and shaft still shakes but less ,but to be like new need to change also the pan. This is the difference between 2wd and 4wd 4matic ,that's why I never had issues on w221 2wd On the second picture 7 and 8 goes throw first picture,so in my opinion to resolve this issue less that 200 usd fist check this don't make my mistake changing engine mounts and all that I read on different forums because you could face a 2000 usd mistake
If you have any play on that driver side bearing where the axle goes in, change it as soon as you can. This bearing should be inspected if the car is over 10 years old or has over 150k on it. I've seen a few horror stories where the bearing seized up and destroyed the oil pan housing resulting in a very expensive repair when all you needed is a 30$ bearing. It can be prevented with diligence and checking that bearing for play.
Had the same issue with my C300 4matic motor mounts. I could not find a model specific video on YouTube but found this one for the GLK which is the exact same procedure...
Do you experience abnormally dramatic vibration through the seat, steering wheel and across the cabin when your C-Class is in gear, while stopped with the brakes applied? Does this vibration go away/substantially subside if you place the car in neutral or park? And is it smooth as silk once you apply the accelerator and raise the RPM?
Well, let me share MY SOLUTION.
I purchased my 2010 C350 4Matic from it's first owner last fall with 105,000km, and have since put over 10,000km on it myself. After many months of growing frustration with my car, and countless hours of reading forums of others sharing the same symptoms, yet unable to find a clear solution, I was ready to sell the car. Until...
My mechanic put my car up on the hoist, first checking the rear (transmission) mount. He removed the bolts and mount altogether, and had his foreman sit in the cabin with the car running and in gear. The lack of support from this mount did not seem to alter the symptoms whatsoever, and the mount did not appear cracked or damaged. He re-installed and carried on.
Next, he went to the front of the car. With his jack placed under the oil pan, he began lifting the entire weight of the engine off of the front two mounts. And again, with his foreman sitting in the cabin, the car was placed in and out of gear. VOILA, the symptoms had instantly vanished and surely - once the jack was lowered again - the symptoms returned. This way he was able to isolate that the vibration I was experiencing was the result of aged motor mounts. Although they didn't looked cracked, damaged, or leaking from the outside - clearly the age of the car and the mileage caused them to compress just enough to cause the vibration.
With any 4Matic, replacing the two front hydraulic motor mounts is a labour-intensive job. Expect even a competent mechanic shop to quote you 8-9 hours labour + parts. Living in western Canada, my total altogether came to $1,100 at a private shop. That being said, it is worth EVERY PENNY. The difference is night and day, so drastic that I can hardly tell the car is running now - even in gear.
For all of you out there sharing the frustration, I hope this helps point you in the right direction!
Cheers,
Adam Schmidt
I have the exact same problem with a 2011 4matic and took it to a mb dealer that I've developed a friendship with. They know I do most of my own work and they're fine with it as I'm very OCD and do better than most their techs. I've been set up with their master tech and he pinged it as motor mounts also within 2 minutes of driving and turning on and off the a/c. The entire system is sensitive as hell to any sag. Be it suspension, mounts, or anything. 2mm of decreased height in a motor mount means replace.
Just a small reminder. When replacing front left CV shafts (4Matic) be *very* careful with the intermediate shaft and it's bearing that sit in the oil pan. A number of people (me included) knocked the intermediate shaft and it's bearing straight out of the oil pan, damaging the retaining flange of the bearing. This will require replacement or adventurous repair, and a *much* bigger job than just doing the CV. The damage can be avoided by removing the retaining circlip out of the oil pan before knocking the CV shaft out. Small but very important step!
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Vibration in gear while stopped - SOLUTION
