Only an emulator solution needs reprogramming. The locksmith "sucks" the security codes out of the ignition lock and burns them into the emulator. A US$4 motor change should not need reprogramming, but it looks like during installation, you are supposed to connect the ESL last. I did not and had to send the ESL plus ignition lock plus key to Australian ECU Repair (AUS$500, but that is still cheaper than towing the car to a stealership and paying US$1300 or AUS$2,000. They install a new ESL and program it.

 

Hi all - just joined this forum...have been a MB guy for many years. Anyway, my ESL went out on me on my 2010 C300 after 127K miles in July 2020. Wanted to let everyone know that you can fix this yourself - you really can. If I can do it, you can do it. Have a little patience and treat it like a project to conquer. And spend $10 on a new motor instead of $2,000 at the dealer. I replaced the motor on my ESL and didn't need to do an emulator. Here's a link to my video which is semi-technical and please read the description, where you'll see the links for the technical video I used. But watch mine first for some issues that no one else seems to really clearly discuss. Good luck and you can do this! Best, Al

 

I just did this myself. It's a complicated project that is easy - if that makes sense. It's do-able. My video and the link to the step-by-step I used in my description:

 

I originally reported in early May that my 2008 C350 failed to start after several consectutive tries in October 2019 which led me to store it for the winter until I could find the time to fix it. In early May 2020, I tried again on a whim to start it and, to my surprise, it started fine and has continued doing so every day since. So I have decided to keep driving it until the ESL fails again before I replace it with the $10.00 motor assuming a faulty ESL motor was indeed the problem.

My fingers are permanently crossed for luck and so far so good. The car is in Canada now and I have both CAA and AAA coverage to fall back on the next time any starting problem reoccur. I often wonder if my starting problem was an ESL or EIS one and would dearly like to now how I could definitively tell which of the 2 security featues (ESL or EIS) was/is really defective.

As a precaution, I am staying up to date on all the videos being put out on how to fix both ESL and EIS problems and thank the author of this latest video on how to fix the ESL problem if or when my starting problem re-occurs.

Thanks all for your support. And best of luck with your W204 C-Class. It is a super car to own and drive.

John

 

It's good your car is working again, for now. I know you said you have towing services, etc., but you never know when you'll get stranded. *As far as your question on the EIS vs ESL and which is faulty, if your car is working fine right now it would be hard to tell, I believe. BUT, if you get the "remove key" message and want to test, here are TWO tests that I used.
Test 1: Just turn your alarm on using the "panic" button on your key and then put the key in the ignition. If the alarm turns off, it's most likely your ESL and not your EIS. If your EIS was bad, then your alarm wouldn't turn off.
Test 2: Don't get intimidated by this one...bypass the steering lock system entirely (just as a test, you can't drive with a locked steering wheel). Put your key in the #2 position and leave it there. Open your hood, go to the main fuse box. Pull out fuse 18, which is a 7.5 amp and then put it back in. You should here some clicking, etc. Then go to the starter relay (it's the only green one) and pull it out. Take a paper clip and stick the ends into where position 30 and 87 would go. And your car should start! That also pretty much tells you your EIS is fine and it's your ESL. Blown $10 motor.

 

I'm sorry I didn't reply to this earlier. i didn't have to do any reprogramming. I took the ESL out of my steering column, opened it, replaced the motor, and then put everything back. So essentially, I just did a mechanical repair. Nothing electronic. Just make sure that if your ESL failed in the locked position, like mine did, and if you replace your motor, when you put everything back together put it back in the LOCKED position, as I say in the video. So when you put in the key and the car starts up again, your key tells your ECU to unlock the steering lock. And hopefully you don't fry the chip. Good luck! I did this repair in the summer...it was a big repair that was a lot of work but also rewarding. And I saved a ton of money.

 

My luck has run out again, as some had predicted, and my 2008 MB C350 refused to start again in early Dec/2020 when the weather changed here in Ontario Canada. This latest starting problem came after 7 months of problem free operation since the last time the car refused to start in Nov/2019.The weather conditions this time around were identical to what existed in Nov/2019 when it refused to start for what I thought was an ESL problem which prompted me to put it in storage for 6 months. I got it started again in early May/2020 and it ran problem free till the latest starting problem occurred.

In late November/2020, I changed the front rotors and pads and tried installing a new brake pad wear sensor by turning the steering all the way left thinking I could install the new sensor without jacking the car up. Not only didn't that work, but when I tried straightening the steering, I couldn't and the car refused to start again. After jarring the steering wheel in that locked position a few times, it freed up and I was able to straighten the steering and start the car again. Some 10 days later, it snowed and the car once again refused to start. Weather conditions were identical to November/2019 when it refused to start the first time. So it is in storage once again until early Spring 2021 as I can't work on it in my garage during the winter..

What I find puzzling is that it ran problem free for 7 months which makes me question whether the motor in the ESL was indeed defective and whether the problem may instead be with the EIS. The battery is fully charged, the headlights work fine as do the interior lights, and 4-way flashers. The brake lights do not come on when the brake pedal is depressed as required to start the car. The lock/unlock security feature also works using the remote fob.

Could the no starting problem be weather related if it isn't an ESL problem? Would a defective brake pedal switch prevent the car from starting? And can I repair EIS myself or get the EIS repaired anywhere? How do I test the EIS to see if it is the problem before removing and fixing the $10 motor in the ELS?

Your feedback on this issue would be appreciated. Thanks.

John

 

?

 

I finally attempted to repair the ESL motor in my 2008 C350 this past week . After dismantling the steering, I found the ESL was unlocked and successfully removed it from the steering column. I was unable to get the pins out so I drilled them out and opened the unit. I greased the wheel and plastic guide, inserted a new ESL motor and closed the unit. Because the ESL was unlocked when I opened it, I reassembled it in the unlockedd position and tried to test it. Well, nothing happened. Next , i tested the repaired ESL with it in the locked position but again nothing happened.

Now the ESL does not lock or unlock. I believe I have either fried the circuit board or locked up the chip on the board either of which might be preventing the unit from functioning. The ESL is receiving 11.68 volts of power from the ESI but no power is getting to the new motor. The battery is fully charged.

This is my DYIer explanation for what appears to be happening.

Can anyone tell me what to do next or where I go from here.

John

 

Anyone out there seen my latest post. I am desperate for a response as it might cost me a bundle to get my problem fixed if I cant't fix myself. I would ideally prefer not to go the ESL emulator route and live without the security lock mechanism.

I desperately need HELP.

John

 

Update on my ESL issues,
Since my last post, I engaged the services of an ESL repair man come out to my house to lift the security code from my damaged ESL and input it in another original ESL which he agreed to provide for a total cost of $550. He came out and after testing my ESL, confirmed that the circuit board was fried. He was however able to repair the board so that could extract the security code and transfer it in to an original ESL. However instead of providing another original ESL, he installed an emulator and promised to return a few days later with a fully functional replacement ESL. He also demanded and was paid $450 for installation of the emulator with the understanding that residual $100 would be paid when he returned with the original ESL. Needless to say he didn't return as promised and after 2 weeks of excuses and delays, demanded to be paid $150 instead of the $100 due if I wanted immediate delivery of the replacement ESL. I agreed to his demand but when he didn't show after another 72 hrs. I decided to cut my losses and sent him packing so I am now living with an emulator which at least starts the car. My intention is to obtain another original ESL and pay someone to transfer the security code from the emulator to it to retain the original steering lock feature in my car.

Now I have another problem.

I had disconnected the upper steering column from the universal joint near the floor when I couldn't reach the ESL to remove remove it, making sure that I had marked the connection points to facilitate re-installation. Unfortunately, all the markings have since come off and I am now having great difficulty reconnecting the steering column. to the universal joint and steering wheel. I vaguely recall reading somewhere that there is only one way to reconnect the upper steering column to the universal joint under the dash. Can anyone know of a way to do this?

This re-connection of the steering column is all that remains for completing the reassembly of the dash and steering column before I can put the car back on the road.

I would appreciate it if someone can help me with the re-connection of my steering column.

John

 

Hi John,

I have the same problem. At the universal joint with the spline, there is only one way they will fit together. Remove the clamping bolt on the universal. Look very carefully as there is only one spot for mating. In my case it went in easily at the only spot for a few mmm, but the rest had to be bashed in. Because it had to be bashed in I had to take out the entire column right up to the firewall. When bashing be very careful as one side is steel, the other is alu. I had to pull out the lower steering column at the firewall, but as there is a rubber covering did not see the mating point to mark it. Now I have my steering wheel 180 degree off, the car starts, but horn, window washer, airbag, etc all do not work, so I have to do it all again. Cannot see the display properly as part of the steering wheel blocks it.

I got several ESL motors from China for $5 each, but could not fit the motor and had to send it and ignition lock to Australian ECU Repair to repair my ESL for $500. The chap is talking BS when he says the circuit board is fried, the carbon brushes on the ESL motor wear and burn out. He is also talking BS when he says he is putting in a new ESL as Merc will not sell you an ESL as they claim you are a car thief, despite the fact that you can show them your ownership papers. They prefer to quote you a repair bill of up to $3,000 or more. American Merc owners are talking of class action as some of them end up with a locked steering column and have to be towed away. Mercs no longer lock the steering wheel.

C220 CDI W204, 130,000 km, LH door does not open via remote, light switch has to be set to AUTO as in OFF it will switch lights on intermittently and drain the battery. The auto gearbox oil was not flushed at 60k, nor did Diesel Motors in Bentley flush it at 120,000km and it was black and stank, so the service stinks and the former German quality stinks, too! Diesel Motor claims the customer refused the oil change (?) so you put your car in for service and they ask you if you want a service? Water thermostat had to be changed as water temp was 80 degrees or less rather than the proper 92 degrees.

 

Thanks for your response. I believe the scammer who installed my emulator was supposed to provide a used ESL from a scrapped car and not a new ESL as Mercedes won't sell you a new ESL. Anyway, the emulator works and the car starts now and runs fine. My only problem now is reconnecting the steering column, as noted above.

I will try again today by systematically turning the spline in the universal joint to make the connection.. It has also been suggested that I apply some synthetic grease to the spline to help find the right connection point in the universal joint. I am hoping this works. I have been warned that if I force it, I will damage the universal joint and that could be a very expensive fix.

I will respond again in a couple of days to let you know how I make out.

Thanks,
John

 

Hi John,

I can see the problem. Unless the bottom column and the top column are both pulled out, you have a major problem mating the spline. As I said in my case, at the correct mating point the top column only went in two or three mm making me wonder if it is the right spot, besides, as the top column was disconnected, then hammering in by myself would have been impossible, this is why I pulled out the bottom part too and that mating is also a problem and I managed a 180 degree mismatch. When I fix that I will have to pull in the rubber bell covering that lowest mating point at the firewall in order to see better.

 

Well,after fighting unsuccessfully with trying to rejoin the upper steering column to the u-joint at the bottom above the floor, I removed the upper and lower steering columns and successfully mated the two. Removing and reinstalling the steering column under the dash was extremely difficult due to the lack of room under there but I got it done and my steering column is one again.

Unfortunately, I now have another problem as if I needed any more. My instrument cluster is either not getting any power or it is now defective.

With the simulator installed, the car starts fine and all electrical units work except the instrument cluster. The radio, navigation unit, a/c controls, gear shift console light, left & right turning indicators, 4 way flasher, horn, wipers, headlights. power windows and doors etc..all work fine. There are however two (2) electrical wires with connectors still hanging under the dash that are not currently connected to anything and only one connection point on the steering column without a connector. I can't find a diagram that can tell me where they go. The instrument cluster worked fine before I removed and reinstalled the steering column. It kept spewing out several error messages which I had assumed had to do with the steering wheel and airbag not being installed.

Could I have pinched the electrical wires for the instrument cluster when I was removing and reinstalling the steering column? I don't think I did. And is this a common problem? Can anyone tell me how I could diagnose the instrument cluster problem. I have already checked the fuses and they are OK.

I am so fed up with this car now, I can dump it in the lake and move on.

Thanks,
John

 

Sorry John to hear of your problems and I cannot help you until such time as I will remove the entire column again right up to the fire wall and get rid of that 180 degree error, no horn, no ESP, no driver airbag, etc. All that problem for a US$5 motor, which is now Chinese and will not last the 13 years like the original did. No wonder Merc decided to no longer to lock the steering as an anti-theft measure! Best of luck, fellow Merx sufferer!

 

Yes!

The angels have finally smiled upon me and I can happily report that my instrument cluster is fine and is not damaged as I reported yesterday. I decided to check the instrument cluster wiring and connection again and discovered that I had not reconnected it properly after fixing the steering column problem. Now it is connected properly, it works just fine. My one remaining problem is an "Front Left SRS Malfunction" message being displayed which is an airbag malfunction probably caused by the airbag being removed and reconnected wjem the steering wheel was removed to fix the defective ESL module. If I can't get someone to reset this message, I may have to take the car to the dealer to have that done.

What a nightmare this has been for me. After 22 months of living with that ghastly ESL during which it was shutdown for all of 16 months, I am ever so glad it is all over and that the ESL module is finally gone.

Good luck to everyone who is still dealing with this problem and a million thanks to you all for your help, advice and comments and sharing the videos that are available in this forum. Until next time, you all have a great weekend.

John

John.

 

Glad to hear you got it fixed! I have the same airbag error and will try if my MB2 diagnostic will get rid of it, otherwise I will have to take it to a stealership.

 

Glad you got it fixed - I did the same repair a year ago and made a YouTube video. On the video I mention to take out the airbag fuse, 71, before you disconnect the airbag and you won't have the problem you do. When I put everything back together, I put the fuse back, and connected the negative battery cable and didn't have that error message. My understanding is that only a star diagnostic can reset the airbag message. Or perhaps a mechanic with a really good, expensive scan tool.

 

If I can just say to everyone, if it helps for the future...in my video that I posted on YouTube when I did the esl repair a year ago, I also addressed PUTTING BACK THE STEERING WHEEL SPLINE into that very thick u-clamp. It also wouldn't go in for me, no matter what I tried, and I made sure that I had those 3 notches in the spline properly lined up. TIP: I put the slightest amount of standard grease on the top of the spline (just a little) and I got it in there. Not a white lithium grease spray or anything like that - just a small amount of grease from a can. I pushed hard but the small amount of grease made all the difference. I'm shocked some people here removed the lower part of the steering column...that must have been a nightmare to put back together.

 

Thanks Al for the fuse tip. Yes, it is a nightmare as mine is now steering is now 180 degree off and I have to do it again. Not to worry, I saved myself more than $1,500 in the process.

 

Agree with the $ savings. When I made my YouTube video (a year ago, at this point), I wrote in the description (granted my own calculation) that if the dealer charged around $500, they could still make a profit and I would have had them do it...because it was a lot of work. But the fact that dealers charge between $1,300 and $2,000 for this repair...pretty crazy.

 

This thread appreciated and understood big time.

I had the ESL surprise my new wife several times prior to driving to the dealer - in their spic and span El Dorado Hills locale.........................

For the record - and to their credit - the dealer cost was $1014 (extended warranty cut this figure in half).

This was the sole repair since Summer 2014 purchase.


ez

 

Thank you. Glad and hope the video was able to help some. I love MB and my C300...and this has been one of my only repairs as well. I have a 2010 with 136K miles. Aside from the ESL, I had the alternator replaced a year ago and this summer I changed the water pump myself (it started that infamous "water pump rattle" so I decided to change it and the hoses before it overheated and stranded me). Aside from those issues, it's been a pretty good car and it's my third C300. I'm sure after this I'll get my 4th - but hopefully not for another 2 years'ish. Although I feel like such an expert on the M272 engine by now; I'll eventually need to learn the 4-cylinder M274 (or M275, whatever they call it - I'm not there yet).

 

Hi

watch your video and Miley’s

question:

situation:
car ESL wouldn’t unlock
second attempt ESL unlocked and car started
unfortunately turned off car and could start again. Steering wheel appeared lock.

however after taking ESL module out I didn’t have drill a hole as it appeared in the unlocked stated. Motor prob gave out while
starting to unlock?

Lock is retracted into unlock position, both pins are depressed. It appears as I was pulling apart black arm skipped to inner valley (I tried it and it didn’t make sense)

put in unlock position (image 4) as per articles. However Miley says it must go back in as found however if it stop while trying to unlock by a part turn don’t I risk running out of space as it hits locked point. So I figure if it’s an on/off servo I would go with the proper position ( 1 cm turn clock from unlocked endpoint . Pretty nervous about frying the chip? Am I doing the right thing?
I figured it only knows on and off not incremental steps? as I assembled I pressed both pins in..

​​​​​​​can you help me on this matter before I test?