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The battery light without a "Visit Service/Shop" message also coming up usually means the battery(-ies in case of MB's w/ aux battery also) but you said you put in a new battery, right ? Would still check with a multimeter (cheap, go buy one) at battery with car running that it's seeing around 14 volts to rule out a failing alternator/reg. Light doesn't dim/go out at higher rpm's ? There are posts where the red light stayed ON despite new battery/alternator/regulator showing no problems..some than blamed it on the instrument panel itself !! BTW, if the voltage is 14.6 V or higher with the car at higher rpms, the regulator (built into the alternator) is defective and that will give you the battery light but usually a "Service" message too.
Good luck...a trip to a STAR Diagnostic center or equivalent might clarify the issue sooner/correctly .
I had the same message. Issue was with battery and rusted ground strap. I am not sure if the alternator can also cause the issue. You can check the voltage with the car off and running.
thank you all for all your support, i replaced the alternator and problem fix.
some of the issues i ran in to just in case anyone has this problem.
1. Radio would power off during driving time, it will not power back on unless you restart the car.
2. "ABS and ESP currently unavailable See operators Manual " message will come on just before it starts loosing horse power.
3. Car will die and jumping the battery will start the car again.
##Note# there was a voltage regulator on the alternator that i could have bought for about $95 but the use part at the junk yard was $60 and it worked.
Curious how easy or difficult it is to replace the voltage regulator? Do you have to take the entire alternator out of it? The nut shown on your picture would represent a problem if the entire unit is not taken out of the car. I took a good look at my voltage regulator yesterday, it's a very tight spot on a 2008 C300 Sport.
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