Drop Link Install - Suggestions
02-07-2019, 06:27 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Drop Link Install - Suggestions
Hi,
C220 CDI W204 2007 120,000 km - Clicking told me the link had gone plus a dealer suggested a AUS$215 cost for the LH front repair. The rubbers had split and in Britain you would not pass the MOT.
Differences between the original and the after-market drop link (sway bar):
Original A 2043203769 18mm nut and T40 Torq to stop the turning. Febest link (AUS$34) A2043201789 (?), a worryingly thinner link, 19mm nut and 14mm parallel for open ender to stop turning. Looks like the OEM original number has been superseded.
How to crack the nut open initially? Red face torque and hammering on a ring spanner did not work. Solution: car stand and hydraulic jack to lever the upper nut open. Can send photo if interested. Hammer the lower nut open with cut back ring spanner.
Once the nuts have been cracked, support lower wish bone with block of wood/rubber disk and lever up hydraulically until tension in link has disappeared. Then using a cut back T40 (space problems) and a cut back 18mm ratchet both nuts can be released.
Using a 19mm socket and 14mm open ender torque new link to 44 ftlb, which is the recommended 18mm figure. No room for torque wrench on the lower nut, use red face! After-market link uses Nyloks. Am stingy, but I am sure I have to do the right hand one at some stage, too after 120,000km. They are not interchangeable, the LH and RH one.
Good luck!
C220 CDI W204 2007 120,000 km - Clicking told me the link had gone plus a dealer suggested a AUS$215 cost for the LH front repair. The rubbers had split and in Britain you would not pass the MOT.
Differences between the original and the after-market drop link (sway bar):
Original A 2043203769 18mm nut and T40 Torq to stop the turning. Febest link (AUS$34) A2043201789 (?), a worryingly thinner link, 19mm nut and 14mm parallel for open ender to stop turning. Looks like the OEM original number has been superseded.
How to crack the nut open initially? Red face torque and hammering on a ring spanner did not work. Solution: car stand and hydraulic jack to lever the upper nut open. Can send photo if interested. Hammer the lower nut open with cut back ring spanner.
Once the nuts have been cracked, support lower wish bone with block of wood/rubber disk and lever up hydraulically until tension in link has disappeared. Then using a cut back T40 (space problems) and a cut back 18mm ratchet both nuts can be released.
Using a 19mm socket and 14mm open ender torque new link to 44 ftlb, which is the recommended 18mm figure. No room for torque wrench on the lower nut, use red face! After-market link uses Nyloks. Am stingy, but I am sure I have to do the right hand one at some stage, too after 120,000km. They are not interchangeable, the LH and RH one.
Good luck!
02-07-2019, 09:37 PM
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Correct! It is the land of the free! In a city in Germany, the police just fined 170 "Diesel Suender" or "diesel sinners", great! Here in Western Australia we still do not yet have three-yearly vehicle inspections, lucky us. They have them in Sydney/Melbourne. If the cops catch you here with bald tyres, etc., then you have to "go over the pits" and be forced to fix the faults.
