Chain reaction problems.
03-09-2019, 08:24 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Chain reaction problems.
2013 c300 4matic sport 68k miles
1) Mid-January, steering rack and pinion started leaking, bought used one in good condition for 180$ and changed it my self.
If your changing rack and pinion, don't forget to lock your steering wheel because you will break the clock spring just like I did.
- symptoms of broken clock spring: steering wheel buttons will not light up and won't function, esp - traction control will appear on your dash as well as the airbag. When turning the steering wheel, you will hear a clicking sound.
2) You will not find clock spring online for 2013 > year so I ended up buying the whole steering column for around 90$ used.
3) Changed clock spring but the traction and esp with airbag lights were still on but all the buttons started working and clicking noise was gone.
4) Went to a local shop so they can clear all the faults and clear my dash.
- Airbag light is gone but traction with esp is still on.
5) Found online that I have to fix my "steering angle sensor" inside steering column behind clock spring.
6) Today, I tried take everything apart again and ended up stripping steering wheel bolt.
- So I started drilling a hole in the bolt to use screw extractor. Didn't work out so I put everything to the side for the day.
7) On my way to work, for no reason, my horn went off and the only way to shut it down was to turn the car off. Tried turning car on again and horn didn't stop, so I pulled to the side and good thing I had all the tools with me from earlier. So I remove airbag to see what's going on and saw that I have small metal chips from drilled bolt everywhere (I'm so dumb lol). So I used a magnet to clean everything and plugged everything back, turn the car on again, horn blows, tried a couple of times and now my horn doesn't work at all!
Now, should I check the horn relay or get a new steering column and swap everything?
I hope people who read this will learn from my mistake.
1) Mid-January, steering rack and pinion started leaking, bought used one in good condition for 180$ and changed it my self.
If your changing rack and pinion, don't forget to lock your steering wheel because you will break the clock spring just like I did.
- symptoms of broken clock spring: steering wheel buttons will not light up and won't function, esp - traction control will appear on your dash as well as the airbag. When turning the steering wheel, you will hear a clicking sound.
2) You will not find clock spring online for 2013 > year so I ended up buying the whole steering column for around 90$ used.
3) Changed clock spring but the traction and esp with airbag lights were still on but all the buttons started working and clicking noise was gone.
4) Went to a local shop so they can clear all the faults and clear my dash.
- Airbag light is gone but traction with esp is still on.
5) Found online that I have to fix my "steering angle sensor" inside steering column behind clock spring.
6) Today, I tried take everything apart again and ended up stripping steering wheel bolt.
- So I started drilling a hole in the bolt to use screw extractor. Didn't work out so I put everything to the side for the day.
7) On my way to work, for no reason, my horn went off and the only way to shut it down was to turn the car off. Tried turning car on again and horn didn't stop, so I pulled to the side and good thing I had all the tools with me from earlier. So I remove airbag to see what's going on and saw that I have small metal chips from drilled bolt everywhere (I'm so dumb lol). So I used a magnet to clean everything and plugged everything back, turn the car on again, horn blows, tried a couple of times and now my horn doesn't work at all!
Now, should I check the horn relay or get a new steering column and swap everything?
I hope people who read this will learn from my mistake.
03-10-2019, 09:56 AM
#2
Super Member
Jeez, bad luck. The horn will be sensitive to tightening torque of the airbag on the wheel, it's a simple mechanism of the metal contact points on the bag/wheel completing the circuit when you press down. Too tight = horn always on, too loose = metal contact points won't reach each other
03-11-2019, 11:50 AM
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Jeez, bad luck. The horn will be sensitive to tightening torque of the airbag on the wheel, it's a simple mechanism of the metal contact points on the bag/wheel completing the circuit when you press down. Too tight = horn always on, too loose = metal contact points won't reach each other
