This is a very cost effective solution to the EIS/ESL problem...but the catch is you need to replace the ESL motor brushes preventively, before the ESL fails entirely.

I almost had the EIS/ESL failure -- but avoided the problem by replacing the brushes on the ignition lock motor preventively (when it started to sound worn out and tired). It cost me $15 instead of $1,500+ from the dealer.

You can find tutorials on how to disassemble the lock module -- the trick is to do it when the ESL still works and you are able to still unlock the column - because otherwise it's locked on there and you cannot open up the module without replacing the whole column assembly or doing some drilling to manually unlock the column. Also, if you let the ESL fail, the software may need to be reprogrammed by the dealer or a special tech to get it working again even after you've replaced the motor.

So, if you have a worn out but still working ESL lock motor, put the key in the ignition to unlock the column as usual, then disconnect the car battery and begin disassembling the steering wheel column and then ESL module. Once you have the module open, you can replace the little electric motor entirely, or just the motor brushes. It has been said that the original Mercedes sourced motor is better than the China repros -- but at the least the little mini brushes on the Mercedes motor will need to be replaced -- so put the China ones on. To change only the brushes, there are just two metal tabs that need to be bent back on the motor and the brushes are a part of the white plastic piece which will then slide out. You have to make sure the brushes are properly on the shaft of the motor when putting the new plastic piece back on.

Then, just make sure you put the lock module back EXACTLY how you dissembled it. So if you disassembled it in the unlock position, reassemble it in the unlock position and make sure it is all the way in that position.


Part: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Quality-ESL...ss!29926!US!-1

Tutorial:
With regard to W204s more generally, if you know what needs to be replaced when something fails and how to replace/maintain them cheaply...these are amazingly durable and well built cars.

 

Great video, thanks!

 

Replaced my motor after mine failed. The entire OEM motor was fried, not sure about it's 'quality.' But regardless if I can get another 80k out of it, I'll take it.

 

What does one sound like when it's worn out? I'm at about 98000 miles now and wondering if I should swap the motor

 

Mine failed at 86k and to be honest, I am the type to listen to it anyways. And it never sounded like it was slowing down to me. Maybe mine failed abruptly.

 

Same. No change in sound until it quit all of a sudden at 144k miles.

 

I found identifying the change in sound is difficult. I immediately noticed it after replacement. I probably got used to it before it failed, of course I never expected this to happen. So if one could compare with another car maybe.

 

^^this. I guess it's tough to tell when the sound is what you're used to every time you drive the car and the motor's sound changes slowly over time. But essentially a new motor will make a strong and quick "zip" sound, whereas a worn out one will sound worn out - a slower and weaker groan sound.

I replaced the EIS motor brushes on my C (after it stopped working, so I had to drill in the module to get it off the steering column). Then I had the newly installed motor in that car as a comparison to my GLK's, and the difference between the two car's EIS was night and day...so i replaced the GLK EIS motor preventively...saving the big hassle of being stranded, needing a tow, and spending a lot of money at the dealer or time drilling out the EIS module.

 

Awesome video.. I believe I have this issue but I also think that the previous owner had an emulator installed as I have never had an issue starting my car but noticed that I never had a locking steering wheel. If this is the case and I pull the undertray and see a hanging emulator... could I simply take my car to someone who programs and get a new emulator programmed? I am trying to see if I can do this without pulling apart the whole dash area.

 

The emulator sound is totally different. Get a mirror & a light stick and see if ESL is still present with wire attached or a hanging emulator.

Emulator is an excellent option. I’m glad that I did it. My ESL sound was weaker (even with good battery) so I assumed its death was not far away. My ESL is now still in its original location for a display purpose only

 

what is the emulator sound?

 

With emulator, you'll still get a sound like ESL trying to lock/unlock.

 

Oh so the emulator makes a fake noise? I hear no noise so is my issue probably the motor in the esl?

 

Put a new motor in the ESL this is the 2nd time for this repair last one lasted 3 1/2 years. If i hook up the lock in the locked position nothing happens. If i put the esl in the unlocked position then hook it up when i insert and turn the key no start but when I remove the key the esl locks. No response when i reinsert the key and turn it. My key does turn which leads me to beleive the key is good. Dash lights up and radio will work if i turn it on windows do not work. Im guessing I need to remove the eis and send it all out to be resynched or an emulator programed to replace esl. Any advice?

 

My problem turned out to be a bad key. Sent the eis out and got a new key made for it.

 

I've got a new-to-me 2008 C300. Bought it a couple months ago with 49k mi and it's now got 52k. I am looking to resolve this issue before the ESL failure occurs in my car.

Does anyone know if the new (current) ESL (part number 204-900-59-12) is any better than the older versions (e.g. part number 204-545-57-32)?

I would *hope* that Daimler would look to address this issue. They should, at least, do something so that the buyers of their newer cars aren't plagued with such nonsense.
My further hope is that any remedies to the reliability issues with the ESL would trickle-down/on the replacement units.

If I don't hear anything, then I'll just go the emulator route.

Thank you, in advance.