Hello all and thanks ahead of time!

Think my hand-me-down 2008 C230's radiator might have developed a leak, still confirming but it only leaks near the driver's side of the radiator and the radiator hose connection at the top is usually dry. It only seems to leak under longer trips where higher/temps pressures are maintained.

I'm comfortable switching out parts, have worked on cars for a while, but usually older ones. I read a bit of the sticky on the 7 speed and it seems the ATF machine is required to top off ATF?

Any hack job trick to do it without would be greatly appreciated. Or for the first time in 6 years I'm going to call a shop!

Thanks again!

 

If it was me, when I got the new radiator, i'd determine the size/pitch of the tranny cooler line fittings on the radiator. I'd go pick-up a couple bolts that size, as well as a couple of rubber line plugs or caps. (Caps would probably work best)

When I disconnected the lines on the old radiator, I'd immediately plug the holes on the radiator and cap the cooler lines. After removing the radiator and getting the coolant out of it, i'd then dump the tranny fluid into a container which you can measure or just weigh how much comes out. At install, put that same amount into the radiator before install and plug the ports. Then just reverse the removal/disconnect process.

Good chance the amount in the radiator's cooler is however much it can hold, But also chance it's not. Might as well take 2 minutes and measure just how much it is.

As for needing an ATF machine- no. You would need (at least) what looks like your typical garden sprayer. After reinstalling the pan you pump fluid up into the tranny until the fluid overflows a small 'tower' clipped to the inside of the drain & fill hole. You then start the car to let everything fill the various voids, as well as get up to temp. You then pump addn fluid until it overflows again. It's basically a way of making changing the oil and filter a pain in the backside.

 

Thanks for the reply Karlt!

I don't know why I didn't think of the 'put in as much as what came out' of the auto oil cooler back into the auto oil cooler. Simply (literally) genius and what I was looking for, lol. I'm going to go with that.

And that's what I was gathering, regarding the auto trans oil service; some sort of hand pump deal. I've never worked with one of the 'overflow' type autos before so haven't really seen it in action. Sounds simple enough. Odd you have to pull the pan... how much oil do you loose doing that? Does it go everywhere? You drain it first? Just curious questions as this is a moot point because I'm going with option one above.

Thanks again!!

 

Glad to help

You do drain it first. After you pull the drain plug, you put a screwdriver up into the pan, kick it on an angle and break free that little 'tower' attached inside the pan, on the drain hole. That little tower is what determines how much fluid is pumped up into the pan. Say the tower is 1.25" tall. When you are pumping fluid up into the pain, once it gets to 1.25" (or whatever it truly is), the fluid is going to overflow that tower just like a floor drain and run back out of the pan. But when it's time to drain the pan, snapping the tower loose allows all fluid in the pain to drain out.

 

For the plugs/caps, I tried to find a picture of the oil line fittings. The end/fitting itself seems to have a slightly wider O.D. then the line itself, with what looks like two o-rings fitted, if I'm looking at the right thing.

I found the site below for examples, would a silicon 1/2" cap be fine? 3/8"? (I haven't checked the O.D. of my actual line, yet. I'm in the middle of moving to add to the fun, and trying to remember where I saw my calipers last...)

https://www.stockcap.com/store/hoses-tubing.html

Thanks!