Red Battery Light- Code + OBD Readings












graph of the state of charge.
Graph showing voltage while the charger is doing its thing.
Used some Velcro to hold the monitor down, 2 pieces on the battery on each side of the monitor, 1 piece on the top of the monitor then a long piece over the top keeping it from moving, or so in theory.
I think I found one of the reasons it wants so many permissions. Can track your trips on Google maps. Has a feature to track how much money you spent, also seems like records braking and acceleration???
Not sure what this does, im assuming lets you share all the info to other devices. Dont need that feature, just yet so ill leave everything off.












Fully charged at around 5pm. I have no idea what that huge dip is. I still had the battery charger hooked up until around 9pm because it was still in pulsating green light mode indicating "maintenance mode" whatever that is. Shows the charge SOC goes down to 99%, im thinking because I locked the car up and the battery monitor is connected and running.
The SOC stays at 99% until around 6:30am, and continues to go down around every 30 minutes.
9am the SOC drops to 94%.
11am it drops to 93%.
Any ideas why the odd drop in charge? I was thinking maybe it has something to do with the sun coming up and/or it getting warmer. When I looked outside this morning the car windows were covered in dew. I say this because i know the car does things on its own, I know it opens and closes the door to the heater/ac vent up where the plastic box is above the battery. When I had that box off before that door was closed and then awhile later i look and its opened. Im also wondering if it has something to do with the headlight switch being in Auto, I only put it to auto more recently a month or two ago when the parking lights were coming on when I was parked at stores at night, usually it only happened once in awhile at home and turning the lights on and off would usually fix the issue for the night. I havent researched exactly what the car does while parked, figured id see if anyone does know. I think ill disconnect the battery monitor tonight then hook it back tomorrow and see how much the SOC drops. But if it were just from the battery monitor usage im thinking the drop would be consistant.




The parasitic drain can be up to 1 amp until the ECU puts the car to sleep. It takes longer if the door isn’t locked. After that, maybe 200 milliamp or so. But it’s still sitting there listening. Exactly what it does is probably in a training manual … somewhere. When you open a door or unlock the car, the drain is fairly high as the systems prepare for you to start the car. There’s a component in the pre-fuse block called the quiescent current relay that you found. If it sees the battery get to 80%, it will disconnect everything except the ECU and the starting circuit. The ECU and the battery sensor have to be involved in this. But you are not getting anywhere near there. But the cause of the failure to start from a few days ago still hasn’t been located. As much as I hate to say this, maybe it has to be in failure mode to diagnose it.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG




When I got in my car yesterday the SOC was 93%, i drove to a store abnd parked, the SOC said 95%, i shut off the car went in the store then came back out, started the car and the SOC now said 99%. i stopped at one more store then got home and when i shut the car off the SOC said 94%.
later in the day I went out to the car and the SOC said 93%, unlocked the doors and popped the trunk to get my air pump out. Left the trunk open while i proceeded to fill all 4 tires, all were low around 5psi. Did not take long, maybe 10 minutes max if that. When i got done, closed the trunk and locked the doors the SOC said 83%. So in less than 10 minutes with just the trunk open the charge goes down 10%?
maybe the monitor does need to learn the battery?
One thing i thought that was really cool to see was how my battery charger works. The monitor shows how the charger charges the battery.
The two red lines on the graph show from when I hooked up the battery charger to when I took it off. The yellow line shows when the battery monitor says the battery was 100% charged. Im not sure if the battery was fully charged and the charger was doing things in "maintenance" mode, or if the battery was in fact not fully charged and the monitor is just wrong.
Heres the corresponding graph showing the SOC for the same time frame.




I did switch the headlights back to "Off"" instead of Auto. It looks like between 7-8am the car woke up and did something. I do remember reading how cars perform evap tests while the car has been parked and turned off for awhile, saw this when I was replacing the purge valve in his Chevy truck.
So it did stop at 80%, unless its a coincidence?
I have to ask everyone, is your bluetooth in the car always on? Whenever I walk up to the car the monitor automatically connects, on my phone the bluetooth screen pops up and shows this monitor and it also shows my cars bluetooth to make calls by pairing my phone. so it seems the car stereo's bluetooth is always active.




Car was parked all night, I didnt go near it until almost 2pm.








Right now im just searching to see if it is normal for the car to be using the battery so much. Im wondering if something is turning on that shouldnt be, like a module. Seems to be happening around 6am. i read somewhere that the car will turn the climate control on to dry out the vents to prevent moisture in there, not sure if that is even true though. I need to find someone else with a monitor to see if there car does the same thing.












Last edited by Odd Piggy; Sep 26, 2023 at 01:03 PM. Reason: Wow!
Which makes me wonder, because mbrace was discontinued for older cars because the cellular provider no longer supported the technology, were those features deactivated (which I doubt) or are they still listening for a signal that will never come? Kinda sad.




I do know the bluetooth in my car always seems to be on. When I walk up to it with my phone open the bluetooth screen pops up and shows it pairing automatically with the car to make phone calls.
As far as the SOC and voltage dropping after i parked the car last night I wonder if it was the climate control fan kicking on. When i was driving home the windows fogged up so i had the auto defrost on for a few minutes, then I clicked it off, but looked back down and the ac was still on. Wonder if it is true that the fan kicks on after parking the car to dry out the vents of moisture to prevent mold.
Ill try and repeat what I did then listen for the fan afterwards. Looks like it happened 1hr after parking the car.




Sort of like the Star Trek movie where the old Voyager space probe comes back looking for its maker with a big friend and decides to sterilize the planet when it keeps sending RTS and no one remembers that the Hayes communication protocol reply is DSR.












Battery voltage readings are close, but not the same.
When setting up the Konnwei tester to test the battery it has you pick which type of battery it is and then how its rated, I picked AGM flat panel and then CCA. Then you choose the amp size of the battery, my battery says 700A.Then a screen pops up saying to turn the cars lights on for 10 seconds then turn off to relieve any surface charge. For the 1st test I did NOT do this. here's what I got:
I saw the 84% 593A and was bummed, i got the battery about a year ago and I didnt even notice until recently the battery is stamped 21 on the post so i think thats when it was manufactured. I was thinking the dealer suckered me with a worn out battery. So then I decided to test it again and the screen popped up again to turn the headlights on then off so thats what I did. this time I got a much better result. I tested it one more time after that and got the same result.
Now the Konnwei was saying 98% 688A. But then i noticed the state of charge says 99% at 12.59V while the Ancel is saying 92% SOC at 12.55V. I have no idea what this means, either ones right and ones wrong or they are both wrong, who knows. Ill play around with them more. Im at least thinking the battery is good.
Also while I was under the hood with the cover over the battery off i noticed the door to the climate control was operating along with other various noises the car was making without the key in the ignition.
I also found that there is some type of gauge or viewing port on the battery that had been covered by the sticker. I was looking online at Mercedes batteries and noticed mine wasn't visible. not sure how it works, i seem to remember previous cars had some type of port like this and they were glowing green which meant the battery was good.




That window under the sticker is just an electrolyte level monitor. Your recollection is correct. This one just uses a different optical trick. Many maintenance free batteries have one or the other. If it says “bad” the electrolyte has boiled off and the battery is bad. A “good” indication means the electrolyte is still there, but the battery can still be bad.
I’m kind of a Neanderthal when it comes to battery testing: I don’t trust rapid testers. My electrical system tester (which is about the size of a toaster oven) takes about 2 minutes to test a battery. But in all honesty, turning the key and listening to the starter works about 90% of the time.




I went out just now to use the battery monitor, battery tester and my multimeter.
All 3 devices give slightly different voltage readings. Thankfully they are very close, so i can say they are reading properly for the most part.
tester tells me to turn the headlights on and off so I did.
I know the battery is an AGM, wasnt sure if its flat or spiral but im thinking flat.
I have no idea what these choices are. My battery says "700A" on it, so I chose CCA. I know what that means.
I typed in the 700 since thats whats on the battery. It stays at this setting everytime its turned on which is a good feature.
Heres what it read.
Im happy with the CCA results. The state of charge were different, but a lot i think. But the thing is when i was seeing these 2 numbers for voltage i noticed the car was making all kinds of noise, like switches turning on and off, also that door was opening and closeing. because i had just turned the key to on and fiddled withthe headlights directly prior to testing. So the car was obviously pulling power, so im thinking the test results would be skewed. i think i would have to disconnect the battery and then test to give the most accurate readings.
Im still happy i got the Ancel BM200 monitor. I think its good in my situation to be able to view the voltage as im starting the car, i can see if the voltage jumps up which indicates the alternator is working. I dont think the state of charge is accurate but i could be wrong. I think the voltage is accurate though, and it seems to be good for viewing the graph and see what the voltage was doing while the car was parked.
I find it odd that I had just fully charged the battery yesterday, i did not drive the car, and now the monitors are telling me the battery is 60%-74% charged. Just me unlocking the car, turning the key on, turning the headlights on for 10 seconds then turning the car off the state of charge dropped from 78% to 74%. I just want to document my findings in case someone else is dealing with similar issues. Ive gone out to the car and some days the monitor says the battery is at 60% state of charge, and i didnt even drive the thing. If i parked it for a week the battery would be dead based on the readings.









