Washing of Black 040 color
#1
Washing of Black 040 color
Hi there,
Im about to have by MB C series in BLACK 040 color.
May i have your experience for proper washing of the car to avoid swirl marks?
Thank you
Dodo
Athens-Greece
Im about to have by MB C series in BLACK 040 color.
May i have your experience for proper washing of the car to avoid swirl marks?
Thank you
Dodo
Athens-Greece
#3
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
Use a sealant - such as NextZett GLanz Wax - available thru Amazon -the nano-clearcoat actually is made up of micro platelets - think a surface like a micro turtle shell - and the sealant fills those micro surfaces to provide smooth surface - then your was goes on top of the sealant.
If you think "sealant + wax" you will lower your risk of swirl marks - be careful of the cloths you use.
Keep the beat !
If you think "sealant + wax" you will lower your risk of swirl marks - be careful of the cloths you use.
Keep the beat !
The following users liked this post:
edodo77 (07-30-2017)
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
Disagree. This is BS. I have owned multiple black cars in my 40 years of driving. Do what Fab said and get you car washed on a regular basis. The last black car I had I kept for 10 years looked great with just a little maintenance. People buy tons of black car.
The following users liked this post:
edodo77 (07-30-2017)
#7
MBWorld God!
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: 39.515509, -111.549668
Posts: 30,572
Received 3,353 Likes
on
2,807 Posts
2012 CLS63
I had 040 car once.....never.....ever again.
Trending Topics
#8
My last black car was the last generation of Honda Prelude. I washed and waxed occasionally and all OK in the beginning.
I then learned about detailings and all broke loose. Everytime I went to the Prelude, I would bothered by the swirls. The Meguiars DA Polisher helped a lot, the swirls would disappear and only to come back in a few weeks.,
I then learned about detailings and all broke loose. Everytime I went to the Prelude, I would bothered by the swirls. The Meguiars DA Polisher helped a lot, the swirls would disappear and only to come back in a few weeks.,
#10
I've had two black cars and I told my wife if I try to buy another walk out of the dealership. If you aren't particular about lots of issues with black from dust to streaks to every nick showing enjoy the color. If you are a fanatic about a clean car as I am save all of the anxiety and stress and get a much lighter color. In ten minutes of cleaning a black car you will see nothing but dust. Just my opinion.
#11
I have a suggestion. Find a clean black car in some parking lots, look closely to the hood and check for swirls. If you can live with the swirls, you will be fine.
My preferred interior color is Saddle Brown and for the exterior, I have to choose between selenite grey or silver. There is a 2017 C300 coupe p in the showroom with Black/ Cranberry Red leather. If this is not sold in a few weeks and since 2018 Coupes are coming, there is a good chance that they will offer a big discount on this car. Based on the discount, I may get this one, even it is black.
Good thing is I am not in a rush, my 13 years old CLK is running great.
My preferred interior color is Saddle Brown and for the exterior, I have to choose between selenite grey or silver. There is a 2017 C300 coupe p in the showroom with Black/ Cranberry Red leather. If this is not sold in a few weeks and since 2018 Coupes are coming, there is a good chance that they will offer a big discount on this car. Based on the discount, I may get this one, even it is black.
Good thing is I am not in a rush, my 13 years old CLK is running great.
#12
MBWorld Fanatic!
Many black cars including two S Class. Nothing looks meaner than a black Benz. As soon as I get them I wash them with Dawn to strip any remaining wax or polish, clay bar to make sure the paint is smooth, then start layering on Zaino ZX 5. Four coats lasts six months. It'll also fill and hide any existing swirl marks. Water beads right up and a quick rinse off and dry ( I use a cordless leaf blower) is all it requires in terms of maintenance. Zaino is optically pure and completely non abrasive (which is why it can be layered). Also get the finishing spray.
Visit www.zainostore.com, look at the customer pics and read the testimonials. They're accurate.
This is my Zaino'd 2010 with 80,000 miles on it:
Visit www.zainostore.com, look at the customer pics and read the testimonials. They're accurate.
This is my Zaino'd 2010 with 80,000 miles on it:
#13
MBWorld God!
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: 39.515509, -111.549668
Posts: 30,572
Received 3,353 Likes
on
2,807 Posts
2012 CLS63
Now I have a white car and it's almost as bad lol
#14
MBWorld Fanatic!
The medium tone metallics seem to be the best at camouflaging dirt. I took a break from black and got my C in Palladium Grey. It's like being on vacation, but the car isn't very dramatic looking. Always a trade off.
#15
My current car is silver and in my opinion, silver is the easiest color to maintain and it really pops after a good wax.
I would definitely buy silver if I did not drive a silver car for 13 years. Kind of strange to buy another silver!
#17
This is why I use mostly synthetic wax on my car. I also have Carnauba wax but most of them do not last long. However, maybe the newer Carnauba waxes are better.
#18
MBWorld Fanatic!
Instead of a wax (which contains mild abrasives...it works by cleaning and making microscopic cuts in the clear coat and temporarily filling them) try a polish.
Since a good polish has no abrasives, multiple coats can be applied over one another. (If it had abrasives each coat would remove the coat underneath it.)
The result is that each successive coat adds more depth to the clearcoat and makes the underlying color coat more and more reflective.
But it does take some paint prep since it has zero cleaning function at all. You have to get the finish very smooth, usually by claying. There should be no resistance when you run your hand over it. The upside is that where you'll work harder on prep, once you've built up multiple costs of polish it will keep beading water and protecting the finish for several months.
I'd generally do prep and two coats one weekend, then add coats over the following weekends until there were five or six coats. Then to keep it up maybe a fresh single application twice a year.
Since a good polish has no abrasives, multiple coats can be applied over one another. (If it had abrasives each coat would remove the coat underneath it.)
The result is that each successive coat adds more depth to the clearcoat and makes the underlying color coat more and more reflective.
But it does take some paint prep since it has zero cleaning function at all. You have to get the finish very smooth, usually by claying. There should be no resistance when you run your hand over it. The upside is that where you'll work harder on prep, once you've built up multiple costs of polish it will keep beading water and protecting the finish for several months.
I'd generally do prep and two coats one weekend, then add coats over the following weekends until there were five or six coats. Then to keep it up maybe a fresh single application twice a year.
#19
Instead of a wax (which contains mild abrasives...it works by cleaning and making microscopic cuts in the clear coat and temporarily filling them) try a polish.
Since a good polish has no abrasives, multiple coats can be applied over one another. (If it had abrasives each coat would remove the coat underneath it.)
The result is that each successive coat adds more depth to the clearcoat and makes the underlying color coat more and more reflective.
But it does take some paint prep since it has zero cleaning function at all. You have to get the finish very smooth, usually by claying. There should be no resistance when you run your hand over it. The upside is that where you'll work harder on prep, once you've built up multiple costs of polish it will keep beading water and protecting the finish for several months.
I'd generally do prep and two coats one weekend, then add coats over the following weekends until there were five or six coats. Then to keep it up maybe a fresh single application twice a year.
Since a good polish has no abrasives, multiple coats can be applied over one another. (If it had abrasives each coat would remove the coat underneath it.)
The result is that each successive coat adds more depth to the clearcoat and makes the underlying color coat more and more reflective.
But it does take some paint prep since it has zero cleaning function at all. You have to get the finish very smooth, usually by claying. There should be no resistance when you run your hand over it. The upside is that where you'll work harder on prep, once you've built up multiple costs of polish it will keep beading water and protecting the finish for several months.
I'd generally do prep and two coats one weekend, then add coats over the following weekends until there were five or six coats. Then to keep it up maybe a fresh single application twice a year.
On your original question, like all newer paints the Mercedes black is fairly soft and black in particular really shows swirls. You can largely avoid the swirls by using good products and techniques. Buy a grit guard for your wash bucket and use a good MF wash mitt and lots of soft MF drying towels. Both washing and drying motions should only be one direction (to make it easy to remember, just go the way air travels over the car). Don't use detailing sprays to remove dust or dirt, only wash. If the car has any caked on dirt, power wash it off first and look up the "two bucket" method.
Last edited by Lionel_Hutz; 07-31-2017 at 11:50 AM.
The following users liked this post:
edodo77 (07-31-2017)
#20
MBWorld Fanatic!
This is what I get for posting when I'm half asleep on the crapper.
Let me clarify. I'm not referring to compounds (buffing compound/polishing compound). Those of course all are intentionally abrasive to various extents. Zaino is a "pure" polish and is completely non-abrasive.
Some waxes are also "pure" and contain no abrasives. Others can have some abrasive qualities. (If you're getting paint color on the applicator pad they're definitely abrasive.)
In any case a pure wax or a pure polish works by temporarily filling and sealing tiny imperfections in the finish. I'm not sure how long a pure wax takes to cure and if it can be layered.
On a black car it's very easy to create holographic swirl marks by using an abrasive wax or polish. Those seem to be more prevalent and less irregular than marks caused by accidental grit in the wash buckets. Not sure how long the pure waxes continue to protect the finish after application, but the Zaino polish lasts a very long time.
The key is to clean the paint using a process that doesn't scratch it, since black shows every imperfection, and then protect it with a product that seals in the shine also without using abrasives.
Lots of guys have processes and brands they swear by (Mothers, Meguiers, Griott etc), which often contradict other processes that other guys swear by. I can only share my experience using the Zaino system on my last three black cars (two of which were Mercedes). It does a great job, produces a deep shine, lasts a long time and isn't a huge pain in the *** to apply.
I'm sure guys using the other systems who claim good outcomes are telling the truth. Since Zaino was my first foray into high end polishes and I was happy with the results, I haven't experimented with anything else.
Let me clarify. I'm not referring to compounds (buffing compound/polishing compound). Those of course all are intentionally abrasive to various extents. Zaino is a "pure" polish and is completely non-abrasive.
Some waxes are also "pure" and contain no abrasives. Others can have some abrasive qualities. (If you're getting paint color on the applicator pad they're definitely abrasive.)
In any case a pure wax or a pure polish works by temporarily filling and sealing tiny imperfections in the finish. I'm not sure how long a pure wax takes to cure and if it can be layered.
On a black car it's very easy to create holographic swirl marks by using an abrasive wax or polish. Those seem to be more prevalent and less irregular than marks caused by accidental grit in the wash buckets. Not sure how long the pure waxes continue to protect the finish after application, but the Zaino polish lasts a very long time.
The key is to clean the paint using a process that doesn't scratch it, since black shows every imperfection, and then protect it with a product that seals in the shine also without using abrasives.
Lots of guys have processes and brands they swear by (Mothers, Meguiers, Griott etc), which often contradict other processes that other guys swear by. I can only share my experience using the Zaino system on my last three black cars (two of which were Mercedes). It does a great job, produces a deep shine, lasts a long time and isn't a huge pain in the *** to apply.
I'm sure guys using the other systems who claim good outcomes are telling the truth. Since Zaino was my first foray into high end polishes and I was happy with the results, I haven't experimented with anything else.
Last edited by Mike5215; 07-31-2017 at 01:41 PM.
#21
This is what I get for posting when I'm half asleep on the crapper.
Let me clarify. I'm not referring to compounds (buffing compound/polishing compound). Those of course all are intentionally abrasive to various extents. Zaino is a "pure" polish and is completely non-abrasive.
Some waxes are also "pure" and contain no abrasives. Others can have some abrasive qualities. (If you're getting paint color on the applicator pad they're definitely abrasive.)
In any case a pure wax or a pure polish works by temporarily filling and sealing tiny imperfections in the finish. I'm not sure how long a pure wax takes to cure and if it can be layered.
On a black car it's very easy to create holographic swirl marks by using an abrasive wax or polish. Those seem to be more prevalent and less irregular than marks caused by accidental grit in the wash buckets. Not sure how long the pure waxes continue to protect the finish after application, but the Zaino polish lasts a very long time.
The key is to clean the paint using a process that doesn't scratch it, since black shows every imperfection, and then protect it with a product that seals in the shine also without using abrasives.
Lots of guys have processes and brands they swear by (Mothers, Meguiers, Griott etc), which often contradict other processes that other guys swear by. I can only share my experience using the Zaino system on my last three black cars (two of which were Mercedes). It does a great job, produces a deep shine, lasts a long time and isn't a huge pain in the *** to apply.
I'm sure guys using the other systems who claim good outcomes are telling the truth. Since Zaino was my first foray into high end polishes and I was happy with the results, I haven't experimented with anything else.
Let me clarify. I'm not referring to compounds (buffing compound/polishing compound). Those of course all are intentionally abrasive to various extents. Zaino is a "pure" polish and is completely non-abrasive.
Some waxes are also "pure" and contain no abrasives. Others can have some abrasive qualities. (If you're getting paint color on the applicator pad they're definitely abrasive.)
In any case a pure wax or a pure polish works by temporarily filling and sealing tiny imperfections in the finish. I'm not sure how long a pure wax takes to cure and if it can be layered.
On a black car it's very easy to create holographic swirl marks by using an abrasive wax or polish. Those seem to be more prevalent and less irregular than marks caused by accidental grit in the wash buckets. Not sure how long the pure waxes continue to protect the finish after application, but the Zaino polish lasts a very long time.
The key is to clean the paint using a process that doesn't scratch it, since black shows every imperfection, and then protect it with a product that seals in the shine also without using abrasives.
Lots of guys have processes and brands they swear by (Mothers, Meguiers, Griott etc), which often contradict other processes that other guys swear by. I can only share my experience using the Zaino system on my last three black cars (two of which were Mercedes). It does a great job, produces a deep shine, lasts a long time and isn't a huge pain in the *** to apply.
I'm sure guys using the other systems who claim good outcomes are telling the truth. Since Zaino was my first foray into high end polishes and I was happy with the results, I haven't experimented with anything else.
I swore by Zaino about 15 years ago but IMHO the industry has moved on while they're still pitching their product ecosystem that requires prep, layering, and cure times that the user doesn't have to deal with for comparable sealants.
#22
MBWorld Fanatic!
Yeah, now that I think back my first black Zaino car was a 2005 GTO. Hard to believe that was 12 years ago. I guess there probably are more advanced products now, considering that in 2005 the IPhone didn't exist.
My next car will probably be black. I should probably update my approach to keeping it shiny.
My next car will probably be black. I should probably update my approach to keeping it shiny.
#23
After my previous car was black, I was looking for a non-black C450, but color options were very limited and I ended up with another black car. My previous car was a 2006 550i which was pretty well covered in microscratches and spiderwebbing by the time I got rid of it. I am trying very hard to do as much as possible to avoid those paint issues on the C450.
I'm going with the "don't touch the paint" method as that seems to me to be the most assured method to avoiding microscratches while cleaning. I started by doing a Gtechniq ceramic coating treatment. Now my standard wash is via a foam cannon connected to a pressure washer so I don't touch the car during the "soaping/washing" phase and then I use an auto dryer to dry.
I've been pretty pleased with the results aside from the fact that the car wash area at my condo building always has at least partial sunlight exposure so it is near impossible to finish up before some water spots dry on the side of the car hit by sunlight. I'm considering buying a 10x20 ft tent/canopy so I can wash in the complete shade, but I'm not sure how easy those are to assemble/disassemble for one person. It's also on concrete (so tent poles can't be anchored in ground) so I'm a little concerned about a big wind gust knocking the tent over onto my car.
I'm going with the "don't touch the paint" method as that seems to me to be the most assured method to avoiding microscratches while cleaning. I started by doing a Gtechniq ceramic coating treatment. Now my standard wash is via a foam cannon connected to a pressure washer so I don't touch the car during the "soaping/washing" phase and then I use an auto dryer to dry.
I've been pretty pleased with the results aside from the fact that the car wash area at my condo building always has at least partial sunlight exposure so it is near impossible to finish up before some water spots dry on the side of the car hit by sunlight. I'm considering buying a 10x20 ft tent/canopy so I can wash in the complete shade, but I'm not sure how easy those are to assemble/disassemble for one person. It's also on concrete (so tent poles can't be anchored in ground) so I'm a little concerned about a big wind gust knocking the tent over onto my car.
The following users liked this post:
edodo77 (07-31-2017)
#24
Maybe you should consider products like opti-coat or cquartz. Google it, these products can reduce swirls. A few of my friends swore by Opti-Coat and I saw the results myself.
I plan to get a Selenite Grey and I will still get opti-coat.
I plan to get a Selenite Grey and I will still get opti-coat.
#25
On the other hand, I had good luck with CQuartz UK--it kept my Golf R protected and swirl free the whole time I owned it. Of course, that car was not black and did not have the misfortune of being washed by an idiot so YMMV.