When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I believe this is my first time posting a thread on MBWorld. I frequent FB quite often for advice but it seems as if the W205 community is mainly on the forums. FB is rather annoying and limited anyway. After countless searching without anyone giving clear advice on how to add a subwoofer to the existing Burmester system, I decided to dive in and do it myself, taking a few photos along the way.
I had a 12inch Addictive Audio “Shake” subwoofer in a ported box from my BMW I just sold and wanted to utilize it in the C-Class I just bought. Of course after hearing how horrible the bass on the Burmester system was, I NEEDED to add some bass.
*Getting Bass Signal*
So I started by removing the trunk liner (passenger side)
Then I accessed the factory Burmester amp which is located on the reverse side of a metal mount. You must remove the mount in order to access the amp.
I unplugged the amplifier then removed the sheathing of the wire loom to expose the wires.
On the wire loom you must tap into the Pink, Pink/Black and Violet, Violet/Black. Those are the speaker wires for the factory bass speakers.
I then installed a Line-out converter ($25). This will convert the speaker signal to RCA, which will connect to most amplifiers.
After this is complete, you now have the bass signal for the aftermarket amp for your subwoofer.
*Getting Amp Power* (If you are running a high powered system, you must run a wire directly from the battery to avoid damaging the electrical system)
Keep in mind that I have a 300w amp powering a 300w subwoofer (150w rms). I only needed 10 gauge wire.
I accessed the fuse box in the trunk under the mat. Remove the fuse box by pushing down on the tab located between the fuse box and “unknown” unit. While pushing down on this tab, you have to slide the whole fuse box assembly toward the rear of the car and it will come out.
Undo the two T20 screws on the bottom to access the power terminals
Undo the nuts and attach your amp power cable (don’t forget to use an inline fuse).
I used one of the grounding studs behind the liner for my ground.
I also tapped into one of the AUX power fuses to control the amp’s remote function (this will turn the amp on and off with the vehicle key)
Install everything back and enjoy the improved bass. Amp is behind the bracket Wire loom to amp Line out converter installed Fuse box for amp power T20 screws on bottom Bottom cover removed from fuse box fed wires through carpet finished install
I have my amp’s gain set pretty low. I adjust the bass using the factory sound menu. It works pretty well.
I'm thinking doing the same after seeing this post. Can you tell me if this sub/amp could be connect to the fuse box? I'm avoiding running the power line to the battery. Thanks.
Personally I would go for the Alpine MRV-M500. That pioneer is a little too much for that sub.
Everything else looks ok. You may be disappointed by the sound of a sealed 10inch. If you're going sealed and low profile, I would jump up to 12inch.
Just keep the amp around 600w to avoid running a power wire from the battery.
Thanks for the reply,
One more question, is it fine to rock the attached 12" subwoofer with your recommended Alpine amp and still able to utilize the fuse box for power? Thanks man, im a *** when it comes to this stuff.
Yes. That would work out well. Subwoofers are getting more efficient with power usage. Pair that with the w205's lack of sound deadening material, you'll have good bass.
You may want to research ported vs sealed box before you make a purchase.
Just keep the amp around 600w to avoid running a power wire from the battery.
I would disagree. 600W at 14,4V is giving 41Amps. Which is a lot.
Main power which is going to fuse box and where you did connect your system is also supplying a power for other units. And it is behind a fuse of course (close to main battery in front of the car).
You have to exactly know which units and equipment is supply by this main power cable. And diameter of this cable + power which all the equipment is taking, considering the fuse which is used to protect this.There are relays installed so there is also some units which need some "juice".
There are charts on internet and you can see cable diameter vs amps vs distance.
From the chart you can see that for a power flow 35-50Amp and distance 13-16ft you will need at least 8ga. And this is only for you audio amp.
Seeing this main cable to the fuse box I would bet it is not big diameter. And where is the rest of the car system which this cable is supplying?
I wouldn't like to be in situation when you driving the car and losing car systems (whatever it can be - control units) because you increased audio level and blown main fuse which is supplying controllers and your audio system. Cable used for power supply to the car units is calculated and rated for certain current flow.
If the fuse will not blown maybe current flow can heat the cable as much as it can start to release the heat and possibly melt. You have to consider that this cable will supply car systems and your audio system. The distance between battery and this fuse box is at least 5 m (I did my car audio system and ran a new power cable from battery 4ga - behind dedicated fuse - to trunk and I have 2 amplifiers which are protected with 30A fuse each) so current flow is a matter.
Additional equipment especially audio amplifiers what ever it is, taking a lot of amps. This is DC voltage.
In my opinion if you want to add amplifier to your audio system it is recommended to run a new power cable from the battery and install dedicated fuse max 50 cm from battery terminal. This is how it should be done.
Consider this.
But of course it is only my opinion and you can disagree. This is your car and you decision.
BTW this Boss kit is OFC cable or CCA?
There is a big difference between this type of cables. Resistance...
Check this to see the difference:
The 205 definitely suffers from deficient bass, including low bass, but also mid-bass. I found that even a 10” ported sub was a little too loose and boomy. I ended up with a JL dual 8”, also ported, and even that was difficult to rein in. I think one of those compact combo 10” sub and amp, like the Infinity Bass Link might actually be the ticket. They also accept both line level and speaker level inputs, negating the need for line level converters. Generally the fewer connections you’re making, the lower the risk of introducing noise.
Here’s a write up on my adventures in W205 audio upgrades. Scroll to the first post.
Mike,
I still have my 10" Hertz sealed and I was thinking to change it. But we have to consider that ported vs sealed are different type of expectation. Ported will go lower but will be also "slower". Sealed will be "faster" but will not go low as ported. In my opinion all depends what actually person is expecting.
But sedan (saloon) cars are difficult to get what you will actually need. Sealed are good if you would like to save some space in the trunk, ported usually request bigger enclosures and it recommends really good calculation. Sealed just forgive some calculation mistakes.
I hadn’t seen the new Prima. I have the prior generation 8.9. It’s kind of a nightmare to configure but it sound good once it’s set up.
To my ear at least, sealed cabinets sound tighter, with less unwanted resonance. What I want out of a sub is a punchy kick drum sound and “hit” first and foremost, and then I need it to play just high enough into the bass register to close the gap below wherever the mid bass drivers are cut off. On the W205 the footwell speakers are it. Everything else is mids and highs.
In a car with some decent 6” woofers somewhere in the cabin it’s relatively easy. It’s more challenging in the 205, mainly because of the decision to use somewhat weak “Frontbass” speakers that rely on EQ and a big resonating chamber to sound loud and full, (sort of how Bose does things.)Plus they need to cut through carpet and insulation.
FrontBass probably looked better on paper than it actually sounds. Not an ideal solution
I believe this is my first time posting a thread on MBWorld. I frequent FB quite often for advice but it seems as if the W205 community is mainly on the forums. FB is rather annoying and limited anyway. After countless searching without anyone giving clear advice on how to add a subwoofer to the existing Burmester system, I decided to dive in and do it myself, taking a few photos along the way.
I had a 12inch Addictive Audio “Shake” subwoofer in a ported box from my BMW I just sold and wanted to utilize it in the C-Class I just bought. Of course after hearing how horrible the bass on the Burmester system was, I NEEDED to add some bass.
*Getting Bass Signal*
So I started by removing the trunk liner (passenger side)
Then I accessed the factory Burmester amp which is located on the reverse side of a metal mount. You must remove the mount in order to access the amp.
I unplugged the amplifier then removed the sheathing of the wire loom to expose the wires.
On the wire loom you must tap into the Pink, Pink/Black and Violet, Violet/Black. Those are the speaker wires for the factory bass speakers.
I then installed a Line-out converter ($25). This will convert the speaker signal to RCA, which will connect to most amplifiers.
After this is complete, you now have the bass signal for the aftermarket amp for your subwoofer.
*Getting Amp Power* (If you are running a high powered system, you must run a wire directly from the battery to avoid damaging the electrical system)
Keep in mind that I have a 300w amp powering a 300w subwoofer (150w rms). I only needed 10 gauge wire.
I accessed the fuse box in the trunk under the mat. Remove the fuse box by pushing down on the tab located between the fuse box and “unknown” unit. While pushing down on this tab, you have to slide the whole fuse box assembly toward the rear of the car and it will come out.
Undo the two T20 screws on the bottom to access the power terminals
Undo the nuts and attach your amp power cable (don’t forget to use an inline fuse).
I used one of the grounding studs behind the liner for my ground.
I also tapped into one of the AUX power fuses to control the amp’s remote function (this will turn the amp on and off with the vehicle key)
Install everything back and enjoy the improved bass. Amp is behind the bracket Wire loom to amp Line out converter installed Fuse box for amp power T20 screws on bottom Bottom cover removed from fuse box fed wires through carpet finished install
I have my amp’s gain set pretty low. I adjust the bass using the factory sound menu. It works pretty well.
Nice setup! Could you tell me which of the wires were positive and negative ? I tried following along the wire loom but keep getting lost. Which went to what specifically if you can. I’m thinking about doing this setup.
Can anyone confirm the amp's fan should be spinning when amp is powered. I got no sound now, think i got a short circuit during setup. Both fuses for Burmeister sound system are fine. I doubted that this amp has a protection mode. Thanks a bunch fellas.
Can anyone confirm the amp's fan should be spinning when amp is powered. I got no sound now, think i got a short circuit during setup. Both fuses for Burmeister sound system are fine. I doubted that this amp has a protection mode. Thanks a bunch fellas.
I had a similar issue with no sound during my install and holding down the cd/eject button and rebooting the command fixed it.
Will try that tommorow, thank you. Btw, I tried to restart the system by "long press" the ON button and noticed the fan on the amp was spinning for a brief second, then it turned OFF when the system was back on, freaking weird.
Planning to do this as well, also want to avoid running a wire from the battery if possible. Anybody know if this setup will be ok to piggyback off the existing wire to the trunk fusebox?
Same here! Lol looking to add a sub but cant run wire from battery. Literally no room to stick my hand in the engine bay. Only the passenger side have a hard plastic harness covering the firewall. Cant drill that. How did you get power from the trunk fuse? Do you just tap into the main power wire to the trunk fuse box? I have a kicker 600watt sub and 800 amp. Is that too much for the fuse box?
Same here! Lol looking to add a sub but cant run wire from battery. Literally no room to stick my hand in the engine bay. Only the passenger side have a hard plastic harness covering the firewall. Cant drill that. How did you get power from the trunk fuse? Do you just tap into the main power wire to the trunk fuse box? I have a kicker L5 sub and Z400.1 amp. Is that too much for the fuse box?
Awesome write-up man!...I just have 2 questions exactly which AUX fuse did you use for the remote function? and where exactly did you connect the amp power cable in the fuse box?
Hi,
I'm looking to add an aftermarket subwoofer to my W205 this weekend, I am torn as to where to run the power wire from.
Either to tap into the rear fuse box line or run a dedicated wire from the engine bay.
This thread been excellent help as to the location of the best ground, remote and speaker wires to tap for signal, thank you to all above.!
Would anyone be able to best advise a route to run the cable from the engine bay? I plan to use a gauge run to the boot.
Hi,
I'm looking to add an aftermarket subwoofer to my W205 this weekend, I am torn as to where to run the power wire from.
Either to tap into the rear fuse box line or run a dedicated wire from the engine bay.
This thread been excellent help as to the location of the best ground, remote and speaker wires to tap for signal, thank you to all above.!
Would anyone be able to best advise a route to run the cable from the engine bay? I plan to use a gauge run to the boot.
Always run main power from battery up front. Amp remote you can run off the fuse box against a fuse that is only on when the car is on.
Hi,
I'm looking to add an aftermarket subwoofer to my W205 this weekend, I am torn as to where to run the power wire from.
Either to tap into the rear fuse box line or run a dedicated wire from the engine bay.
This thread been excellent help as to the location of the best ground, remote and speaker wires to tap for signal, thank you to all above.!
Would anyone be able to best advise a route to run the cable from the engine bay? I plan to use a gauge run to the boot.
its super easy, just run it off the battery and there's a wire harness right there you can poke and push through and it comes out under the passenger footwell behind the glove box.
I registered to ask this question: Is this as straight forward on an EQC with Burmester? I like the sound very much, but there's just no deep bass, so I need a box with a 12" or two in the booth for this car.
02-02-2019, 06:27 PM
