benzdude

I finally found some time to fix the low and high frequency speaker rattle noises coming from my doors.

Turns out it's not the speaker cover that rattles, but the loose metal clips that hold the trim in place.

I used some Tesa Wire Loom Harness Tape left over from making my ambient vent wire harness.




These loose clips (below) are making all the low and high frequency noises when they vibrate. (I only had one very loose clip, but I covered all of them with tape)



Just cover each one with one of two strips of tape.






TESTING

The first 12 of seconds of this song will help you identify which door has loose clips that vibrate (turn up the volume, set treble to 10). I only had issues with two doors.


Now all that's left to do is fix the bass rattle noise coming from inside my rear deck.

DylanM

How do your door cards even stay on at this point Benzdude?!

Nice job pinpointing the source of those rattles...

benzdude

I know right. I get major anxiety every time I remove the front door trim, because I have to bend my led tweeters to get them off.

I should've fixed those loose clips when I did the ambient mids, but I forgot.

Elbandito

how do you put the door trim back? it seems so difficult

benzdude

That's actually the easy part.

You slide the rubber window guide out of the top of the door trim, insert it back into the door. Then the trim clicks back into place easily.

Khanh Tran

Thank you so much. Do you think the noise from speaker froam cover is too close to the inside oval rubber foam

W205_Merc

thank you for posting this Sir Benzdude


very useful, going to try this next weekend and get those damn clips to stop rattling at those frequency's

gpcruiser

Great post. Just got an 18 W205 and the Burmester buzz is really annoying me. If someone could summarize how labor intensive and delicate removing the door panel is. I don't want to go the dealership route as this seems like an easy fix.
Thanks in Advance

jeboo

Getting door panel off is not bad, two torx bolts and then just a bunch of plastic clips (easier to pry off if you have a plastic trim tool). There are some youtube vids for w205 door panel removal. Getting back on can be a little touchy, pay attention to the rubber seal that goes against the window. If you're unsure, just check the opposite door for how everything should sit.

benzdude

The trick to the rubber seal is it detaches from the door panel for reinstalling.

Detach it and place it back in the window Before putting the door panel back on. If you have it aligned properly, you will hear each clip snap back together when you press the door panel on to it.

A few rookie mistakes to avoid:

1. Not having a cardboard box (about the height of the bottom of the door) to rest the door panel on, while you detach the wires.
2. Forgetting to reconnect the speakers wires before putting the door panel back on.
3. Forgetting to reconnect the door handle cable before putting the door panel on
4. Forgetting to replace the large white clip ( top left ) before putting the door panel on. (it needs to first be removed from the door frame and clipped to the door panel)
5. Forgetting to guide the door lock screw through the hole on top of the door panel, before putting it back on.
6. Making sure all plastic clips around the door panel are in place and haven't fallen off, before putting the door panel on

gpcruiser

Great. Thanks for the tips. I will try this for sure.

benzdude

I do have to report back that i was unable to completely remove the high pitched whine. I reduced the noise from the metal door clips but the 230hz whine is still there.

I believe i even heard it with the speakers connected, completely off the door and laying on the seat.

I used a DSP amp to set door speakers low end above 250hz and it went away. But I prefer them at 150hz to 20000hz.

gpcruiser

Question:
Do I have to unclip all the harnesses and completely remove the panel, Or is there enough room to get in and tape the clips with the harnesses still plugged in?

benzdude

You need to remove the door panel completely and lay it flat to work on it. I took it inside and put a towel under to prevent scratching.

Everything needs to be disconnected. There are only two connectors on the controller and two speaker wires. The door handle cable pulls up and out of the door assembly.

Unscrew the door pins

Also, don't hold the panel at the burmester speaker grilles or they will dent inward and make you cry.

​​​​​​​BTW, after loosening the clips around door panel, the very next step is to pull up or push up on the door panel at the lock side. The panel needs to be pulled up off of the big white clip. It remains on the door. Don't break the mount.

SEE 1:12 for clip info.

benzdude

I actually have to take my driver side door panel off this weekend, because all winter my rotating speaker has been turning on /off due to a loose connector I forgot to plug in properly.

if I bang on the door it works again.

gpcruiser

Thanks for all the info.
Any idea on apple carplay volume adjustments before I start a new post?

benzdude

No carplay sorry.

benzdude

BTW, I swapped the felt tape for rubber washers last year, when I replaced all my speakers.

bibika027

What size are they?

benzdude

Hillman 3815 7/16 in. x 1 in. x 1/16 in. Rubber Washer (40-Pack) https://a.co/d/78vexTe

bibika027

Did it fix the issue?

benzdude

​​​​​​It fixed my trim rattles, bass rattles. I also used tessa tape and foam when installing the new speakers.

The high frequency issue decreased, but can still be heard at very loud volumes and on random songs.

Turns out the speaker even does it when out of the door, sitting on a seat.

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post7673491

Attached file noise is gone.

bibika027

My local dealer in Austin replaced 3 or 4 door speakers so far, but my speaker grills buzz a lot still, especially when playing into to that Ariana Grande song, it just makes the whole car buzz.
I don't have any rubber washers but i do have self-adhesive felt that I'm going to use on the clips and I will report back.