Please help...Oil Leak from oil filter housing 17 C300
#1
Please help...Oil Leak from oil filter housing 17 C300
Ok. So epic fail on my part trying to change the oil. My cap presented me with a severe problem that I just made 10x worse. After trying everything to get the cap off to get to the filter and it NOT budging it then ended up destroying it to get it out. I literally had to break it into pieces and in the process I damaged the threads in the housing where the cap screws into. I tried three sealer to see if that worked and it’s a no-go, still leaks. So I am thinking I need to replace the entire housing (please correct me if I am wrong). And am coming up blank on any kind of how to’s online for this project. I am trying to keep the cost down as my partner just lost job and funds are super tight but i HAVE to have a running car. Any help or suggestions, anything would be appreciated. Thanks
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#2
Hello tatsturtle, can we see pictures? I know I want to see. When I read your title I thought the oil filter housing gasket was leaking oil like it did way back on my BMW E93 haha. Don't think this car will have that problem so early. Anyways!
Changing the oil is usually a very straight forward process. I usually do it after a drive, get it to operating temperature, and then let the car cool off for 30 minutes. Maybe this helps the plastic cap loosen up easier? I don't know. If the cap was tight (from previous owner/dealer) I would have first used a breaker bar to help get it loose. I've tightened it snug always from my past 4 oil changes.
So the old oil filter cap is for sure destroyed based on your story... here's the part number 270-180-04-00. #13 on diagram. I see as low as $39 or regular price $52 for one.
If you stripped the metal threads inside #2 while destroying the plastic housing cap and it's not keeping a good seal anymore sorry man, looks like #3 might have to be replaced. That's as low as $390 and regular $520. Plus you got to deal with the vibration damper that looks like it rolls around with the serpentine belt.
Changing the oil is usually a very straight forward process. I usually do it after a drive, get it to operating temperature, and then let the car cool off for 30 minutes. Maybe this helps the plastic cap loosen up easier? I don't know. If the cap was tight (from previous owner/dealer) I would have first used a breaker bar to help get it loose. I've tightened it snug always from my past 4 oil changes.
So the old oil filter cap is for sure destroyed based on your story... here's the part number 270-180-04-00. #13 on diagram. I see as low as $39 or regular price $52 for one.
If you stripped the metal threads inside #2 while destroying the plastic housing cap and it's not keeping a good seal anymore sorry man, looks like #3 might have to be replaced. That's as low as $390 and regular $520. Plus you got to deal with the vibration damper that looks like it rolls around with the serpentine belt.
#3
Hello tatsturtle, can we see pictures? I know I want to see. When I read your title I thought the oil filter housing gasket was leaking oil like it did way back on my BMW E93 haha. Don't think this car will have that problem so early. Anyways!
Changing the oil is usually a very straight forward process. I usually do it after a drive, get it to operating temperature, and then let the car cool off for 30 minutes. Maybe this helps the plastic cap loosen up easier? I don't know. If the cap was tight (from previous owner/dealer) I would have first used a breaker bar to help get it loose. I've tightened it snug always from my past 4 oil changes.
So the old oil filter cap is for sure destroyed based on your story... here's the part number 270-180-04-00. #13 on diagram. I see as low as $39 or regular price $52 for one.
If you stripped the metal threads inside #2 while destroying the plastic housing cap and it's not keeping a good seal anymore sorry man, looks like #3 might have to be replaced. That's as low as $390 and regular $520. Plus you got to deal with the vibration damper that looks like it rolls around with the serpentine belt.
Changing the oil is usually a very straight forward process. I usually do it after a drive, get it to operating temperature, and then let the car cool off for 30 minutes. Maybe this helps the plastic cap loosen up easier? I don't know. If the cap was tight (from previous owner/dealer) I would have first used a breaker bar to help get it loose. I've tightened it snug always from my past 4 oil changes.
So the old oil filter cap is for sure destroyed based on your story... here's the part number 270-180-04-00. #13 on diagram. I see as low as $39 or regular price $52 for one.
If you stripped the metal threads inside #2 while destroying the plastic housing cap and it's not keeping a good seal anymore sorry man, looks like #3 might have to be replaced. That's as low as $390 and regular $520. Plus you got to deal with the vibration damper that looks like it rolls around with the serpentine belt.
FYI...the threads that are bent are in the metal part that the cap screws directly into. So the thread sealant is on the threads of the cap.
Last edited by tatsturtle; 11-27-2020 at 08:33 PM. Reason: Add on comment